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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 03-01-2014, 08:12 AM
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... and if you find you can't get the heater in there without moving heaven and earth, then a 12v blow dryer, like this one, temporarily ducted in has been known to work for getting by the inspection requirement for defrosters.
See what I mean? He always validates my assertions about him.
Lesson: Be careful from whom you take advice.
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:35 PM
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Thanks everyone for the sage advice. I do not plan on driving it much in the cold, and certainly not at high rpms until the engine is warm. But, the DMV does mandate the defrosters, so here we go....next weekend.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:51 AM
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Jim - in response to your PM here are some pictures from when I was bonding the body that show the heater hose holes in the fiberglass firewall and aluminum skin.

The two holes just below the main electrical cable entrance are for the heater. I believe the three screw holes around it are the one to secure the heater - one to either side and one below. Assuming ERA supplied the same heater to you as they did in my kit, they should be the same on the template.



This is of the firewall behind the aluminum. The lower heater support screw is below the steel tube cross bar and only penetrates aluminum. The threaded coupler allows adjustment to make up for the thinner section in that area.



Here is another picture of the interior with the heater mounted. I took hundreds of photos but still managed to miss a lot of good detail shots I could have taken.



Hope this helps.
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Old 03-03-2014, 02:30 PM
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Dan,

Thanks, that helps a lot. I imagine that the template and screw layout is the same. Just got off the phone with Doug at ERA, Bob had left already and he talked me through it. I am planning on starting work this weekend when it warms up. I will take all the photos that I can.

Jim
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Old 03-03-2014, 02:56 PM
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Dan,

Thanks, that helps a lot. I imagine that the template and screw layout is the same. Just got off the phone with Doug at ERA, Bob had left already and he talked me through it. I am planning on starting work this weekend when it warms up. I will take all the photos that I can.

Jim
How far did he think you needed to pull out the dash?
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Old 03-03-2014, 03:56 PM
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He thought that I would just have to disconnect it, so that it was loose and cut a few cable ties on the wiring harness to loosen things up. He said that I may have to unbolt the windshield and tip it forward to access the screws on the deflectors for hooking up the vent tubes; however I found this nifty little right angle Phillips had ratchet that may have enough clearance to get the job done without loosening the windshield. Will let you guys know in a few days, it is single digits out right now and will be below zero tonight. A little too cold for me to be messing around with things.
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:02 PM
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He said that I may have to unbolt the windshield and tip it forward to access the screws on the deflectors for hooking up the vent tubes; however I found this nifty little right angle Phillips had ratchet that may have enough clearance to get the job done without loosening the windshield.
Oh, wow, you're right. I hadn't even thought of that part of the job. Doing anything on these cars is a PITA.
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Old 03-03-2014, 05:05 PM
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. A little too cold for me to be messing around with things.
Candy Arse. It is over 10 degrees F! Go forth and drill!!!!

Of course we do have a heated building............
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:40 AM
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I stopped by Harbor Freight and $29.99 later I have a right angle drill. It should last long enough to drill the 5 holes that I need in the aluminum firewall. I do not plan on driving the car in very cold temperatures, but since I already bought the heater/defroster and DMV mandates it, in it shall go. It does not look like I will have to gut the car, will have to remove the two lower supports for the dash and then take the retaining screws out of the dash so that I can slide it backwards a couple of inches.

I understand the concern about operating temperatures and do know not to run the engine at high rpms until the temperature gauges have increased to an appropriate operating temperature.

Will start posting pictures next weekend. The temp has dropped too much for me to be fiddling around in the garage with the car.
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Old 03-02-2014, 12:22 PM
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I understand the concern about operating temperatures and do know not to run the engine at high rpms until the temperature gauges have increased to an appropriate operating temperature.
Which will never happen below about 45 ambient. Especially with an oil cooler.
Don't disregard my other advice.
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