Four Way Flashers -- How To with Pics

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by patrickt

The left side of fuse number five is the feed. It becomes "hot" with 12 volts when you turn the key on. If you just jumper over to the left side of fuse five with a constant 12 volts, your brake lights will work with the key off, but that jumper will "back feed" through the original feed that runs to fuse five and your ignition light will be on, etc. You don't want that. So, you must simply disconnect the feed by removing the existing wire that goes to the screw that is immediately to the left of fuse five and just wrap electric tape around it. Then you can jumper an "always on" 12 volt source to that screw on the left side of fuse five. Your brake lights do not use a lot of current, so a simple 14 gauge wire running from the left side of fuse one would be fine -- just crimp and solder little ring connectors on the end. The left side of fuse one is always hot.

Great, thanks!!!

[lippy]

I went ahead and finished this last night. Thanks Patrick. But I did do a few things differently. I didn't wire the dash lights to flash. I don't want any of those hard to reach small bulbs to fail more quickly. I used AWG 10 wire and soldered most of the connections under the dash. I also mounted a rocker switch hidden under the dash on a small aluminum bracket I made.

I actually think this is a fairly important thing to have. My car hasn't broken down in my first 1500 miles driven, but I did put it together myself and realize it won't be as reliable as a modern car. I carry safety triangles, but many of the roads I use don't have shoulders and this just strikes me as a good idea.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by lippy

I went ahead and finished this last night. Thanks Patrick. But I did do a few things differently. I didn't wire the dash lights to flash. I don't want any of those hard to reach small bulbs to fail more quickly. I used AWG 10 wire and soldered most of the connections under the dash. I also mounted a rocker switch hidden under the dash on a small aluminum bracket I made.

Nice. Are you running the super bright LED rear lights? (see: LED Upgrade to Rear Rectangular Lights ) The total amperage draw on my four way flasher circuit with normal 1157 bulbs up front, the LED lights in the rear, the dash light wired in to the circuit, and an electronic flasher, is just a hair under five amps (and that includes my third LED brake light as well).

[lippy]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Nice. Are you running the super bright LED rear lights? (see: LED Upgrade to Rear Rectangular Lights ) The total amperage draw on my four way flasher circuit with normal 1157 bulbs up front, the LED lights in the rear, the dash light wired in to the circuit, and an electronic flasher, is just a hair under five amps (and that includes my third LED brake light as well).

Nope. Just the brighter standard bulbs from ERA. No LEDs.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by lippy

Nope. Just the brighter standard bulbs from ERA. No LEDs.

The LEDs are painful to buy (like fifty bucks for the two of them), but they are significantly brighter than the bright 1157 bulbs, and, they are cool to the touch. 1157 bulbs have caught more than one rag or paper towel on fire in the trunk of the car. Do you have the polished aluminum reflectors that go behind the bulbs? They make a good bit of difference as well.

[lippy]

Originally Posted by patrickt

The LEDs are painful to buy (like fifty bucks for the two of them), but they are significantly brighter than the bright 1157 bulbs, and, they are cool to the touch. 1157 bulbs have caught more than one rag or paper towel on fire in the trunk of the car. Do you have the polished aluminum reflectors that go behind the bulbs? They make a good bit of difference as well.

Yes, reflectors from ERA.