What Projects do you have for the Winter?

[Large Arbor]

I am kind of curious for ERA owners what they will be tinkering on this winter. I have to replace some valve cover gaskets, fix a speedometer issue, and generally clean and paint some things.

Phil

[DanEC]

Good post - I've actually managed to knock several of mine out already but here is the whole list.

- Pull tailpipes to repaint and pass side collector to re-seal due to exhaust leak (all pulled off so far)

- Crank rear ride height up 1/4 inch (done)

- Extend rear suspension trailing arms 1/4 inch to fix rubbing at front of wheel wells. Touch up rubbed off undercoating on front closure (done)

- Pull front brake pads and sand to remove any glaze. Scuff up rotors with sandpaper to break up glaze (done)

- Pull valve covers and adjust hydraulic lifter preload (remains)

That's about it.

[1795]

Just installed my new side curtains. Need to find a canvas bag for them.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by 1795

Just installed my new side curtains. Need to find a canvas bag for them.

ERA made a pretty nice one for me out of black vinyl with foam dividers and a velcro closure.

[Bernica]

I don't own an ERA, but I hope I can submit my winter list anyways...

- Change out tires to new Avons
- New shocks all around
- New tie rod boots
- Adjust ride height
- Corner balance
- Alignment

I'm sure there will be more as is goes along....

[Dwight]

I don't own a ERA
but I plan on changing my front lower control arm in the next couple of weeks. They arrived yesterday.

And I'm going to finish my hardtop this winter. I bought it 13 years ago and it has sat in the corner waiting on me.

We can drive all winter long with a good coat and hood. So the top was put on the backburner.

But this year I would like to do the Hot Rod Power Tour with my Cobra and I think I will need the hard top.

Dwight

[505stang]

Don't own a ERA , have to fix damage to rear quarter panel and change pinion angle, don't like mounting points from manufactuer.

[kevins2]

- My passenger side sidepipe was hitting the bottom of the body opening due to engine torque. I also had a small exhaust leak - maybe caused from the sidepipe hitting the opening and breaking the seal. I've already removed the sidepipe, enlarged the opening, primed and painted the repair and reinstalled the sidepipe with Walker's exhaust sealant.
- Remove the wheels to clean them inside and to clean the wheel wells.
- Grease the suspension, front and rear, and the driveshaft.
- Clean the underside of the car
- Retorque the head bolts. My valve covers seep a bit so I want to replace the gaskets anyway. I'm going to buy some bolt spanners to spread out the load - hope that stops the seeping.
- I have a small oil pan leak. Not sure if I want to just live with it or remove the oil pan to replace the gasket.
- Heater switch stopped functioning. I've removed it already and have a replacement on the way.
- Smith's oil temp gauge stopped working. I've already removed it and have a replacement on the way.
- Detail/wax the car

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by kevins2

- Retorque the head bolts.

Double check this one -- my engine builder was quite clear that the only retorquing to be done on my FE was a one time tighten up of the intake manifold. The only other part that would need retorquing might be the oil pan and that was to be done only if there was a leak (which there wasn't). The heads were not to be retorqued.

[J.Jensen]

The heads might need a torque check/retorque if he had ARP studs in his block instead of normal headbolts that stretch on final angle torqueing.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by J.Jensen

The heads might need a torque check/retorque if he had ARP studs in his block instead of normal headbolts that stretch on final angle torqueing.

OK, I think Lykins built his engine, so getting an answer should be pretty easy for him. Just imagine how irritating that would be if you retorqued your heads and all you got for your trouble was a fresh leak or a snapped off bolt.

[J.Jensen]

Yes, then he definitely will get the answer, Brent might even tell us here the why when and if about head retorqueing if we´re lucky

[kevins2]

Actually, my engine was built locally and I did speak with the builder. He said not to loosen them and retorque them but it wouldn't hurt to check if anything is loose. I have read that they should have been retorqued after the first few miles and they weren't. Now I have 5,600 miles and no indication anything is wrong so maybe I should leave well enough alone and just replace the valve cover gaskets to stop the seeping. It made sense to check the bolts since I will be removing the valve covers anyway.

[J.Jensen]

The head gasket would have been killed if the bolts loosened. Did he say what torque to redo them with?

The whole retorque them thing really puzzles me. You will not get a correct torque by adjusting the wrench to given setting and clicking on an already tightened bolt. The breakaway torque of the bolt plus the existing torque will be higher than the torque setting it was given - and the only thing you accomplish is you know it had not loosened.
To retorque a bolt or nut, you need to back it off a quarter turn and redo it properly - which you cannot do with deadbolts that stretch.

[patrickt]

Pull the valve covers, eyeball everything, look for something obviously loose or out of place, replace the gaskets (I use Open Gear Grease on them -- do a search on here to see specifics), and knock off early. No retorquing today.

[GregAgrest]

I'm not an ERA owner but my CR is going in for new paint next week

[cycleguy55]

No ERA here, but here's my list:

1. Install PowerTrax No-Slip differential
2. Replace rear main seal
3. Install Wilwood 4 piston front disk brakes
4. Install remote reservoirs for brake and clutch fluid
5. Install Canton road racing pan (possible, not yet committeed to this)
6. Replace bottom hinged accelerator pedal and push cable with top hinged pedal and pull cable
7. Install 9" K&N X-Stream air cleaner
8. Install 5 degree carburetor wedge plate
9. Replace hood pins and trunk latch with keyed-alike locking hood latches and trunk latch
10. New gas tank - more capacity and better filler
11. New sealed battery box in trunk
12. Replace rear view mirror with more period correct mirror

[ScratchBuilder]

FE build here, longblock completed 2014:
1.waterpump (completed today)
2. Alternator
3. Carb
4. Ignition
5. Fire it up.

SB

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by kevins2

- My passenger side sidepipe was hitting the bottom of the body opening due to engine torque. I also had a small exhaust leak - maybe caused from the sidepipe hitting the opening and breaking the seal. I've already removed the sidepipe, enlarged the opening, primed and painted the repair and reinstalled the sidepipe with Walker's exhaust sealant.
- Remove the wheels to clean them inside and to clean the wheel wells.
- Grease the suspension, front and rear, and the driveshaft.
- Clean the underside of the car
- Retorque the head bolts. My valve covers seep a bit so I want to replace the gaskets anyway. I'm going to buy some bolt spanners to spread out the load - hope that stops the seeping.
- I have a small oil pan leak. Not sure if I want to just live with it or remove the oil pan to replace the gasket.
- Heater switch stopped functioning. I've removed it already and have a replacement on the way.
- Smith's oil temp gauge stopped working. I've already removed it and have a replacement on the way.
- Detail/wax the car

If you happen to find these spanner bars to spread the load, could you post the source? I remember looking for these about a year ago and came up with nothing but SB Chevy stuff.
Thanks

[kevins2]

Sure, I haven't ordered any yet but found some "Universal" spanner bars at Summit.