Building ERA Slabside #3012 - Page 11

RockBit · #1 (**permalink**) 02-19-2019, 02:12 PM

I see you went with the programmable MSD 6530. You must be planning to program your timing curve. I also opted for the 6530 but have not programmed it so far. I’m working up the courage to do it!

AndrewB · #2 (**permalink**) 02-19-2019, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RockBit

I see you went with the programmable MSD 6530. You must be planning to program your timing curve. I also opted for the 6530 but have not programmed it so far. I’m working up the courage to do it!

Yeah, my plan is to get the car running and dialed in then hide a map sensor and start all over from scratch. Masochistic some may say but I love to tinker

.

fintubi · #3 (**permalink**) 03-08-2019, 01:42 PM

Andrew, earlier in the thread you mentioned that torquing down the engine and trans bolts was a PITA. Any insights, recommendations, or tools that might have made it easier? Would love to benefit from your hindsight

Bill

CJ428CJ · #4 (**permalink**) 03-08-2019, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Andrew, earlier in the thread you mentioned that torquing down the engine and trans bolts was a PITA. Any insights, recommendations, or tools that might have made it easier?

The motor mount to frame nut is a pain to get to and to get tight. Get one of these ratcheting flex wrenches. They make the job a piece of cake.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-MM...CMMN/203424740

AndrewB · #5 (**permalink**) 03-08-2019, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJ428CJ

The motor mount to frame nut is a pain to get to and to get tight. Get one of these ratcheting flex wrenches. They make the job a piece of cake.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-MM...CMMN/203424740

Yep, that is exactly how I did it as well. I just would have liked to be able to get my torque wrench in there so I could get an idea, as well as be consistent, with the torque I applied.

AndrewB · #6 (**permalink**) 03-13-2019, 08:03 PM

Got the clock bezels back from chroming today. Time to finish off the dash!

xb-60 · #7 (**permalink**) 03-13-2019, 08:34 PM

Looking good Andrew.
Have you leathered the dash panel yet?

Cheers,
Glen

edit: just looked back to post#43, and of course, yes, it was done by ERA

AndrewB · #8 (**permalink**) 03-13-2019, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xb-60

Looking good Andrew.
Have you leathered the dash panel yet?

Cheers,
Glen

edit: just looked back to post#43, and of course, yes, it was done by ERA

Hi Glen,

Yeah, ERA did it.

Note: I have since swapped the tach and speedo into the correct positions

dacobb · #9 (**permalink**) 05-21-2019, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndrewB

Got the clock bezels back from chroming today. Time to finish off the dash!

Where did you source the clock?

AndrewB · #10 (**permalink**) 05-22-2019, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dacobb

Where did you source the clock?

One I got from a NOS parts store in BFE Texas for next to nothing because they didn't know if it worked and didn't feel like checking. The other came from EBay.

Large Arbor · #11 (**permalink**) 03-14-2019, 12:38 PM

I have my MSD box under the dash upside down. I have never had any problems. From what I have read the MSD boxes don't like heat and under the dash is cooler than in the engine bay.

Phil

1795 · #12 (**permalink**) 03-16-2019, 06:59 AM

I had mine under the dash upside down no problems as well. From what I recall, MSD does not want them upside down because there are drain points on the bottom of the unit that will allow moisture to escape if the unit gets wet and in the upside down orientation there is no way for moisture to escape. The is more critical if the MSD unit is mounted in the engine compartment or someplace else where the unit could be exposed to water. If the MSD unit gets exposed to water mounted upside down under the dash, the unit getting wet and not being able to drain is probably going to be the least of your worries

tomgoeke · #13 (**permalink**) 04-18-2019, 12:46 PM

How is it going with 3012? Love to see your car. I am building 3013. It sat for 12 months before I started the car. Did you go with undercar exhaust? Do you have some pics or advice? I just sent mine out for ceramic coating. Will install when I get it back.

AndrewB · #14 (**permalink**) 04-18-2019, 01:39 PM

3013 - cool! 3012 is making steady progress. We were able to fire it up for the first time a couple weeks back and do the initial break-in so that was quite the milestone. No real leaks or surprises and no metal shavings in the oil so I'm pretty happy. The thought of wiping a cam lobe is still in the back of my mind though as I've read too many of those horror stories to feel comfortable yet. After getting the timing set it runs fantastic through the rev range, and as suspected, living up to my fear of maybe having too much engine for the car. We'll see how she drives though before I stress about it too much, but it sounds...aggressive. This weekend I'll start working on the interior.

Regarding the exhaust. Yes, I have the full under-car system and if I did it over again I would have trailered the car to an exhaust shop - it has been the most frustrating part of the build for me. Just getting everything lined up, trimmed, hangars marked/welded, etc so the exhaust looked right from the side profile was just not my idea of fun and took a lot more time than I anticipated. Once it was all completed I had the entire exhaust system ceramic coated and I think it came out great!

If you have any specific questions or need a picture of anything please feel free to contact me. I'm more than happy to help.

AndrewB · #15 (**permalink**) 05-21-2019, 12:23 PM

Quick update - I've got almost all the insulation work done. Of course I came out just a bit short so I had to order another roll to finish off the foot boxes and rear bulkhead. I used the high temp stuff underneath the floors and the temp/sound insulation on the interior. Quite a bit of time was spent fitting (especially underneath the floors), but it truly is amazing how it "stiffens up" and deadens the aluminium structures so I think it was a very worthwhile endeavor. Now on to the carpet! Anyone have any tips on fitting the ERA carpet before I get crazy with the knife and contact cement?

vntgspd · #16 (**permalink**) 05-21-2019, 01:49 PM

When you say you are finishing the "rear bulkhead", does that include the inner fenders visible in the last photo? I would highly recommend it if you haven't already planned for it. In my car with under car exhaust I find that this area radiates more heat than the footboxes on extended drives. The heat can be uncomfortable on warm days if I'm driving with my left arm/elbow inside the car.

Progress looks great so far!

dacobb · #17 (**permalink**) 05-21-2019, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vntgspd

When you say you are finishing the "rear bulkhead", does that include the inner fenders visible in the last photo? I would highly recommend it if you haven't already planned for it. In my car with under car exhaust I find that this area radiates more heat than the footboxes on extended drives. The heat can be uncomfortable on warm days if I'm driving with my left arm/elbow inside the car.

Progress looks great so far!

Did you ceramic coat the exhaust system? Curious if that makes a significant difference or not.

AndrewB · #18 (**permalink**) 05-22-2019, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vntgspd

When you say you are finishing the "rear bulkhead", does that include the inner fenders visible in the last photo? I would highly recommend it if you haven't already planned for it. In my car with under car exhaust I find that this area radiates more heat than the footboxes on extended drives. The heat can be uncomfortable on warm days if I'm driving with my left arm/elbow inside the car.

Progress looks great so far!

I had considered insulating the inner fenders but was not sure I would be able to get the carpet (or leather per original) to look right with the insulation underneath due to its curvature. My exhaust is fully ceramic coated so I am anticipating that it will help. If it is indeed an issue, it will be fairly easy to go back and come up with a solution.

DanEC · #19 (**permalink**) 05-22-2019, 05:37 PM

I did not cement the carpets on the floor. The seats keep the main sections secured. The floor tunnel mats are secured with snaps. Floor mats will tend to slide around a bit and it helps to secure them in some fashion.

I ceramic coated my exhaust back to - but not including the tailpipes. I have a lot of insulation on the floor so it's not bad down there - but at stop lights the heat is going to well in over the top of the doors from the exhaust no matter what you do. My ceramic coated SpinTech mufflers read around 500 deg when I shut things down after a ride down the road. I'm not sure how much good the ceramic coating does.

dacobb · #20 (**permalink**) 05-22-2019, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

I did not cement the carpets on the floor. The seats keep the main sections secured. The floor tunnel mats are secured with snaps. Floor mats will tend to slide around a bit and it helps to secure them in some fashion.

I ceramic coated my exhaust back to - but not including the tailpipes. I have a lot of insulation on the floor so it's not bad down there - but at stop lights the heat is going to well in over the top of the doors from the exhaust no matter what you do. My ceramic coated SpinTech mufflers read around 500 deg when I shut things down after a ride down the road. I'm not sure how much good the ceramic coating does.

I'm thinking of doing the same thing with the carpets. I'll be using thermal/sound deadening under the carpets and under the car, and am thinking of using Jet-Hot for the ceramic coating of the exhaust. They say their process reduces heat by 65% and they have a lifetime warranty.

Anyone out there used them?

The bummer is I have to get the exhaust from ERA, take it to a local exhaust shop to weld the brackets and fit the exhaust to the car, then take it all off and ship it to Jet-Hot. Then reinstall.