ERA Toploader Re-seal/build - Page 3

DanEC · #41 (**permalink**) 05-26-2018, 04:17 AM

Got a new rear bearing and got back on the transmission a little yesterday. After polishing the shaft mating area I had about .002 interference fit with the new bearing. I honed the inner part of the bearing down until it was around .001 interference, set my heat gun on the inner race awhile until it got up to 200 F and then started it on. Still pretty snug but an least when I tapped on it with a brash punch and small hammer it was now moving so after what seemed like about 60 to 70 punch strikes all around the inner hub it was on. The rest of it went pretty easily. The sticky green transmission assembly lube really holds those rollers in place so no issues after all this time with the countershaft.

I did note that if I screwed the 1-2 screw that holds the detent and spring down tight under the top plate - it was locking the fork/shaft up from sliding. So I had to back it off about 1 to 1-1/2 turns before it shifted freely. The 3-4 and reverse all seemed fine. Good idea to check that everything shifts good and spins fine before buttoning up.

Just have the gasketed parts to assemble and it should be ready to go.

DanEC · #42 (**permalink**) 05-27-2018, 09:47 AM

Finished up the reassembly today. Took extra pains to seal all gaskets/bolts. Applied a bead of sealant on all surfaces, installed dry bolts and lightly snugged parts to squeeze and spread sealant but not tighten fully. Then pulled bolts out one by one and coated them with gray RTV and reinstalled and then torqued tight. I sealed the vent holes in the lid gasket with RTV to keep the top of the gasket dry. Hopefully no leaks this time.

Below is a good set of instructions that I was given a link to. It's a little tedious to use because of all the separate photo links and some of the links to photos connect to incorrect photos. But it has some excellent illustrations of the main cluster assemblies and other sub-assemblies that are hard to find elsewhere. I printed out the main narrative and 3 or 4 of the sub-assembly pictures for good detail.

ClassicTiger: Ford Toploader Transmission Manual

Noticed one issue with my throw out bearing that I need to look into before reinstalling but I think I'll post it in the Transmission forum.

1795 · #43 (**permalink**) 05-27-2018, 11:03 AM

Congratulations Dan, looks great! I recall that Dan Williams instructed me to put some cheap 80-90 weight oil in my new top loader and then take it for a couple of slow laps around the track making sure to not exceed 4,000 rpms and then drain the oil and fill with a high quality 80-90. The idea was to flush out the packing grease and remove any metal pieces as the new gears mesh.

Hope everything goes well. Saw your other posting and do not have anything to suggest regarding the spring.

Jim

patrickt · #44 (**permalink**) 05-27-2018, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

Finished up the reassembly today. Took extra pains to seal all gaskets/bolts.

Well, from the outside it looks perfect....

DanEC · #45 (**permalink**) 05-27-2018, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1795

Congratulations Dan, looks great! I recall that Dan Williams instructed me to put some cheap 80-90 weight oil in my new top loader and then take it for a couple of slow laps around the track making sure to not exceed 4,000 rpms and then drain the oil and fill with a high quality 80-90. The idea was to flush out the packing grease and remove any metal pieces as the new gears mesh.

Hope everything goes well. Saw your other posting and do not have anything to suggest regarding the spring.

Jim

Thanks, I will probably do something along those lines. It's pretty easy to drain and fill the Toploader due to the drain plug. Interestingly, I still found assembly lube traces inside the cluster gear roller area and in the input roller bearing area. That stuff hangs on.

DanEC · #46 (**permalink**) 06-02-2018, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Well, from the outside it looks perfect....

It looks even better now.

I'm going to say the TO Bearing is self aligning. The inner race has about 1/16 inch, maybe a bit more, lateral play which seems to make no difference in spinning effort or smoothness.

When I pulled out the TO Bearing and I quickly discovered that it would not be a good idea to get carried away with a grease gun lubing these things. When I pulled it out it was well coated/gunked up with grease that had worked it's way out of the race. Fortunately it seems to be a pretty stiff, high temp grease so although it go flung around inside the bellhousing a little, it just stuck and didn't run anywhere. Wiped it down, gave it a very, very light shot of fresh grease and put it back in. Adjusted the clutch where I can push on the fork to bottom the slave and get a slight bit of play at the TO Bearing.

Unfortunately too hot to finish putting the interior back in today.

patrickt · #47 (**permalink**) 06-02-2018, 12:45 PM

Well that looks brand spanking new now.

ACHiPo · #48 (**permalink**) 06-02-2018, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

It looks even better now.

I'm going to say the TO Bearing is self aligning. The inner race has about 1/16 inch, maybe a bit more, lateral play which seems to make no difference in spinning effort or smoothness.

When I pulled out the TO Bearing and I quickly discovered that it would not be a good idea to get carried away with a grease gun lubing these things. When I pulled it out it was well coated/gunked up with grease that had worked it's way out of the race. Fortunately it seems to be a pretty stiff, high temp grease so although it go flung around inside the bellhousing a little, it just stuck and didn't run anywhere. Wiped it down, gave it a very, very light shot of fresh grease and put it back in. Adjusted the clutch where I can push on the fork to bottom the slave and get a slight bit of play at the TO Bearing.

Unfortunately too hot to finish putting the interior back in today.

Dan,
Seeing your toploader I'm thinking it's a waste to cover it up with a tunnel! It's a thing of beauty. Plus think how fast you'll feel you're going when you can see the road moving under your feet, and the rocks hitting you in the leg!

DanEC · #49 (**permalink**) 06-03-2018, 04:54 AM

Evan - I'm not sure if it would be an improvement from just a bunch of air flow through the cockpit or if I would just get a bunch more heat from the undercar exhaust. Think I'll be safe and put the transmission tunnel back in. It's gotten too blasted hot and humid here now and I don't need more heat.

Interesting that when I first assembled my car I thought it would be too difficult to muscle that 95 lb thing in by hand and I used an engine hoist to suspend it and work it in. This time (and several years older) I just yanked it out and shoved it back in by hand. Not light work but not as bad as I thought it would be. Worst part was maneuvering it through the little door way. The nose of the input actually bumped my door front while I was concentrating on getting the tail housing clear but it was a glancing tap and no paint damage done. Those four threaded rods make it much easier - once I get it hung on those it's just a matter or picking up the rear and guiding it in with a little push.

ACHiPo · #50 (**permalink**) 06-03-2018, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

Evan - I'm not sure if it would be an improvement from just a bunch of air flow through the cockpit or if I would just get a bunch more heat from the undercar exhaust. Think I'll be safe and put the transmission tunnel back in. It's gotten too blasted hot and humid here now and I don't need more heat.

Interesting that when I first assembled my car I thought it would be too difficult to muscle that 95 lb thing in by hand and I used an engine hoist to suspend it and work it in. This time (and several years older) I just yanked it out and shoved it back in by hand. Not light work but not as bad as I thought it would be. Worst part was maneuvering it through the little door way. The nose of the input actually bumped my door front while I was concentrating on getting the tail housing clear but it was a glancing tap and no paint damage done. Those four threaded rods make it much easier - once I get it hung on those it's just a matter or picking up the rear and guiding it in with a little push.

Dan,
I was joking--you don't want that drive shaft spinning close to stuff that could get caught. That being said, the tranny sure is purdy!

Oh, and you get lots of man points for strong arming that bad boy into place!
Evan

xb-60 · #51 (**permalink**) 06-03-2018, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

....Those four threaded rods make it much easier - once I get it hung on those it's just a matter or picking up the rear and guiding it in with a little push.

Dan, if you're planning a trip to Australia soon, bring those threaded rods along and you can help me muscle my Toploader into place

Cheers!
Glen

DanEC · #52 (**permalink**) 06-04-2018, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xb-60

Dan, if you're planning a trip to Australia soon, bring those threaded rods along and you can help me muscle my Toploader into place

Cheers!
Glen

Wow - one last rookie mistake. Glenn - you might be able to find better help over there.

Got everything hooked up and after finally getting my Hurst bolted in the correct hole (two options and after painting the bracket I initially picked the wrong one) and adjusting the rods - I couldn't get it to go into any gear but reverse. At first I thought it was all the stiff assembly lube and I started the engine and let it idle a while to circulate the lubricant but still no go. Then realized even reverse was kind of iffy and started looking at my rods and levers again and realized that reverse didn't seem to be all the way toward the neutral position. After dropping the rod off of the shifter I could move the rod hooked to the transmission lever a good inch further towards full neutral - which keeps the interlock pin engaged in the 1/2 and 3/4 sliders. So re-adjusted the reverse rod and voila - all gears again. At least I know I got all the interlock and shift detent pins installed right. Sure glad I figured that stupid error out before I yanked the transmission back out.

Now I just have to reassemble the interior which I'm saving for another day.

DanEC · #53 (**permalink**) 06-04-2018, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACHiPo

Dan,
I was joking--you don't want that drive shaft spinning close to stuff that could get caught. That being said, the tranny sure is purdy!

Oh, and you get lots of man points for strong arming that bad boy into place!
Evan

Thanks Evan. At this point I'm all out of vintage transmissions to rebuild. I've rebuilt 2 manuals and an automatic and the completel front/rear suspension/differential on my GTX in last 18 months. Think I'll concentrate on some light routine maintenance for awhile now and maybe even drive one of them sometime.

DanEC · #54 (**permalink**) 06-08-2018, 12:48 PM

Finally finished getting the car back together - 100 little screws it seems. Transmission running & shifting good.

Kind of disappointed that the speedometer is still a little jumpy. With a new drive and driven gear and a flush and re-lube of the cable I figured it would be steady and smooth. I have a feeling it's due to the tight bend the cable has to take coming away from the transmission to run thought the parking brake bracket and up towards the front. I don't see much way to improve it so may have to live with it.

patrickt · #55 (**permalink**) 06-08-2018, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

Kind of disappointed that the speedometer is still a little jumpy.

Do you have a reversing unit behind the speedo? Or is it a clockwise unit?

DanEC · #56 (**permalink**) 06-08-2018, 03:02 PM

Yes, I have one at the speedometer. I've lubed it and shimmed it previously so I doubt it's an issue but can't ever be 100 sure.

I also have one on my Corvette cable tach drive (set up for same direction rotation) at the distributor to avoid a tight bend in the cable and it runs very smooth.