Starting issue - Page 2

patrickt · #21 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

OK, I will do one thing at a time. I set the meter to Ohms (auto), and measured across the pickup coming from the dist, those are the wires you are suggesting right? My reading is erratic and keeps rising. In mega-ohms it start around .710 and just keeps going up the longer I keep the probes on the wire metal ends. I stopped testing it at 1.022. On line conversion of .710 mega-ohms is 710000 ohms. Does this big number real mean 710 ohms? I told you electricity is not my strong suite

OK, I think you said you had purchased a new magnetic pickup some time ago. Take that one out of the package and practice measuring the resistance across its leads. We want to see 500 to 700 ohms, just like what you see in the picture on this page. https://www.holley.com/support/troub...ng_techniques/ Then, after you've mastered measuring the resistance across the new one, tackle the old one and compare the results.

patrickt · #22 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 06:14 AM

This is the picture I'm talking about from the "Magnetic Pickup in the Distributor" tab on that page. This one is showing 590 ohms. That's good.

davids2toys · #23 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 07:45 AM

Just did it on the new one. It is super easy because it is not in the clip. It reads just like yours and a very steady reading. Did it again on the old one with the same climbing reading result. Can i take these wires out of the clip maybe?
I remember a few years ago it would not start and it turned out the pigtail had come apart. I pushed it back together and never had a problem since. Should this pig tail lock together, or is it supposed to separate fairly easy?

patrickt · #24 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Just did it on the new one. It is super easy because it is not in the clip. It reads just like yours and a very steady reading. Did it again on the old one with the same climbing reading result. Can i take these wires out of the clip maybe?

Sure, I think you're honing in on a faulty magnetic pickup. But, just because it's in the protocol, crank the engine with the cap off and observe the rotor spinning. While it's unlikely, you want to eliminate the possibility that you sheared your pin off.

davids2toys · #25 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 08:35 AM

Sure what? I can get the wires out of the pigtail? I cant figure out how to get them out.If the pickup was faulty, would I get the climbing reading?

Just checked rotor rotation, perfect.

What about that spark at the coil wire question.

Also, what do you like for electrical contact cleaner? I am thinking of spraying every connector I can find on the car including this pigtail and then applying dielectric grease

patrickt · #26 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 08:44 AM

I have had faulty "locking pigtail components" before from ERA, so I wouldn't want to bet a lot that somehow it wasn't causing part of the problem. If it was me, I would just cut the two wires that are coming off the magnetic pickup, strip them back, and measure the resistance. If the resistance is back up to normal, I would leave it in there. If the resistance is bad, then I would replace it with the new one, and hard wire/solder/shrinkwrap the connection and not worry about it again until you pull the engine. For electrical cleaner, I use whatever spray cleaner I happen to have, 409, Windex, Mr. Clean, etc., then I rub the ends with a little 400 grit sandpaper, then a light wipe of dielectric grease. I use dielectric grease on anything that conducts electricity and have so for almost 50 years. Electrical connections, plug wires, distributor terminals, the rotor tip, everything.

SwiftDB4 · #27 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 08:45 AM

Maybe I'm missing something, but how old is your gas? You mention not running the car in almost a year?

davids2toys · #28 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

I have had faulty "locking pigtail components" before from ERA, so I wouldn't want to bet a lot that somehow it wasn't causing part of the problem. If it was me, I would just cut the two wires that are coming off the magnetic pickup, strip them back, and measure the resistance. If the resistance is back up to normal, I would leave it in there. If the resistance is bad, then I would replace it with the new one, and hard wire/solder/shrinkwrap the connection and not worry about it again until you pull the engine. For electrical cleaner, I use whatever spray cleaner I happen to have, 409, Windex, Mr. Clean, etc., then I rub the ends with a little 400 grit sandpaper, then a light wipe of dielectric grease. I use dielectric grease on anything that conducts electricity and have so for almost 50 years. Electrical connections, plug wires, distributor terminals, the rotor tip, everything.

That is an option, but I would rather not be cutting the wires. If I do, it tests good, and I leave the pick up in there, I could just rejoin the wires with one of those twist caps right?

Pat, what about that spark at the coil wire question I had from before? With the key on, everything hooked back up, using a remote starter, should spark be coming out of the coil wire that is still hooked up to the spark tester?

Totally with you on Dielectric grease, I use it on everything too!

patrickt · #29 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

That is an option, but I would rather not be cutting the wires. If I do, it tests good, and I leave the pick up in there, I could just rejoin the wires with one of those twist caps right?

Pat, what about that spark at the coil wire question I had from before? With the key on, everything hooked back up, using a remote starter, should spark be coming out of the coil wire that is still hooked up to the spark tester?

Totally with you on Dielectric grease, I use it on everything too!

Yes, you can just use twist caps to put the wires back together. That's no big deal. If all is working properly, and the cap and rotor are installed, when you disconnect your coil wire, and then place the end a half inch away from the block, or use a spark tester, and then crank the engine you should see multiple sparks flying out as you crank. If the magnetic pickup is bad, or if you have sheared your pin, you will not see those sparks when you crank but you will still pass the "paper clip" test that bypasses the magnetic pickup. The paper clip test basically tests everything except the magnetic pickup.

davids2toys · #30 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwiftDB4

Maybe I'm missing something, but how old is your gas? You mention not running the car in almost a year?

You are missing something, I have NO spark!

My gas is perfect and it was running fine for 3 recent outings on that 1 year old, 93 octane, gas with star-tron and marvel in it. Star-tron is good for 2 years if used in fresh 93 octane gas. I love that product and it is made especially for Ethanol gas

davids2toys · #31 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yes, you can just use twist caps to put the wires back together. That's no big deal. If all is working properly, and the cap and rotor are installed, when you disconnect your coil wire, and then place the end a half inch away from the block, or use a spark tester, and then crank the engine you should see multiple sparks flying out as you crank. If the magnetic pickup is bad, or if you have sheared your pin, you will not see those sparks when you crank but you will still pass the "paper clip" test that bypasses the magnetic pickup. The paper clip test basically tests everything except the magnetic pickup.

Great info, thanks.
I would think the cap doesn't even need to be installed to do this correct?

patrickt · #32 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Great info, thanks.
I would think the cap doesn't even need to be installed to do this correct?

Absolutely correct. To just observe the output from the coil, you do not need to have the cap or rotor installed.

davids2toys · #33 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 10:16 AM

Perfect, thanks.
Hopefully will get out there one more time before I leave on Saturday, got a million things to do though! Heading out the door right now for PT. I will have my computer with me on vacation also so I can review things and see the forum also.
Do you have any insight about my water temp gage?

patrickt · #34 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Do you have any insight about my water temp gage?

Uhhh, you mean other than if you had posted here first about your no spark condition, before taking a sledge hammer to your ignition switch, then you wouldn't have any problem with it all?

You're going to have to remove the gauge and send it off to Nisonger for a replacement.

davids2toys · #35 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Uhhh, you mean other than if you had posted here first about your no spark condition, before taking a sledge hammer to your ignition switch, then you wouldn't have any problem with it all?

You're going to have to remove the gauge and send it off to Nisonger for a replacement.

I should post a pic of what you are calling a "sledgehammer"...LOL. It really was the equivalent of going over a bumpy road, why would the needle fall out?
What is Nisonger?

patrickt · #36 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

I should post a pic of what you are calling a "sledgehammer"...LOL. It really was the equivalent of going over a bumpy road, why would the needle fall out?
What is Nisonger?

If you have Smiths gauges, that's one of the two or three "go to" places to get them fixed or replaced. I have used them and the owner is an old school Cobra guy from way, way back. Click here to browse the site: Nisonger Instruments :: the exclusive Smiths U.S. Warranty & Service Center since 1949

patrickt · #37 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

why would the needle fall out?

… because it was just sew-sew.

davids2toys · #38 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 05:33 PM

Pretty cool site. I have Auto-meter Cobra gauges. I will probably just get a new one for a measly 120.00...just pisses me off. Going under the dash will not be so much fun either

davids2toys · #39 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

… because it was just sew-sew.

I hate sew sew! Kinda sounds like Murphy's law to me

patrickt · #40 (**permalink**) 10-25-2018, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Pretty cool site. I have Auto-meter Cobra gauges. I will probably just get a new one for a measly 120.00...just pisses me off. Going under the dash will not be so much fun either

If they are electric, then you can probably do the replacement by feel by just reaching up under the dash. It's in a very easy to get to place, all considered. Now, if they are mechanical, then you'll have to fish the tube through the grommet and put it up and over and in to the manifold. That's a little bit harder.