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Old 03-01-2020, 04:40 PM
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60*C = 140*F.

If you have a good oil cooler in cold weather, this is common.

without a cooler, Oil temp will usually be sorta close to water temp. Oil is heated predominantly by RPM's. In street use, your oil will never be hot enough to need a cooler. Even with a thermostat, you could have a tough time getting the oil warm enough to work well.

People think you need to get the oil temp above 100*C to boil off the water. That just isn't true; if it was your kitchen floor would never be dry. Water will evaporate at most any temp above freezing.

But, oil does have an operating range. Oil companies keep that number close to the vest, as I have never been able to find anything specific. Above 180*F seems to be a common consensus. But racers like to see it above 200*F or so.

Studies done on military vehicles in Alaska showed that oil temps below 160*F will cause increased cylinder wall wear.

I would not recommend a 15W oil. Too thick when cold to really lube the engine well in that first 60 seconds or so; where most engine wear occurs. I would change to a 0W or 5W.
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Old 03-01-2020, 04:57 PM
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Even before I fabbed my cover, I would always get up to 80C even on a cold day, it just took longer. The cover speeds up the heat up time and keeps the oil temp around 90C on a summer day. It's easily removable by just reaching around the fender wells.


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Old 03-01-2020, 05:52 PM
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Default Oil Temp

I am in the same boat. Car came with an oil cooler but it's not needed with my Roush engine. Temp barely moves in the winter and maybe gets to 150 in the summer on the hottest of days. I am considering disconnecting it or installing an oil temp controlling valve on it.

Fred
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Old 03-01-2020, 05:58 PM
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I am in the same boat.
Skinny little Roushes and big burly FEs are like cats and dogs.
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Old 03-01-2020, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FredG View Post
I am in the same boat. Car came with an oil cooler but it's not needed with my Roush engine. Temp barely moves in the winter and maybe gets to 150 in the summer on the hottest of days. I am considering disconnecting it or installing an oil temp controlling valve on it.

Fred
Fred I installed a Earls sandwich thermostat on the remote oil filter housing.
Stays in 10% bypass, Starts opening @ 160f, fully open at 180f.
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...t/parts/502ERL

A nicer one is the Improved Racing integral housing and has multiple thermostats to choose from.
Remote Engine & Transmission Oil Filter Mount with Thermostat ENV-170
I like the sandwich or integral types more the the in-line as they use one less hose. (4 vs 5) and look mucho cleaner.

There are a couple of pics in my gallery of the Earls sandwich thermostat.
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Old 03-02-2020, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Even before I fabbed my cover, I would always get up to 80C even on a cold day, it just took longer. The cover speeds up the heat up time and keeps the oil temp around 90C on a summer day. It's easily removable by just reaching around the fender wells.
Am I seeing even more springs on your car?
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Old 03-02-2020, 12:40 PM
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Am I seeing even more springs on your car?
Yes, I love springs. They hold things down, stop rattles, they're easily removable, and they store energy. Why do you think they say "Life springs eternal?"
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Old 03-22-2020, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobcowan View Post
60*C = 140*F.

I would not recommend a 15W oil. Too thick when cold to really lube the engine well in that first 60 seconds or so; where most engine wear occurs. I would change to a 0W or 5W.
Bob,
Thanks. Not sure why I didn't see all these responses over the past few days?

Anyway, I agree the 15W40 is probably a little viscous, but everything is a compromise. The engine builder recommended 10W40 Honda motorcycle oil.
After some research I decided I'd rather have something with higher ZDDP.
Rotella has 1200 ppm ZDDP which I want for wear resistance since I'm running flat hydraulic tappets. The other option is to run race oil or add $15 of ZDDP additive every oil change. I realize the additional cost is mice nuts in the grand scheme of things, but I also have advice from an ex Chevron race oil engineer that sings the praises of diesel oils (Delo or Rotella) because of their optimum ZDDP at 1200 ppm. Delo has since reduced their ZDDP concentration and augmented their chemistry with other additives. Shell has kept the ZDDP in Rotella constant.
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