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10-27-2002, 02:49 AM
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Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA # 665, 390 (to start with) Toploader
Posts: 652
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Not Ranked
FE Head Studs or Bolts?
Hello,
My engine builder prefers head studs and I'm inclined to go along with him, but is there room in an ERA to remove the heads with the engine in the car if you use head studs? Engine is a 427 SO.
Thanks, Chuck
Last edited by chuckbrandt; 10-27-2002 at 02:53 AM..
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10-27-2002, 06:24 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kountze,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: CMC, 351 Cleveland, Dual Quads, C6
Posts: 1,377
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Not Ranked
I seriously doubt it. I believe I would just use ARP head bolts to be safe, but someone else may know for sure if the studs will work.
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10-27-2002, 06:53 AM
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289 FIA Fan
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Dallas,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 462
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Not Ranked
Unusual
Bob must either be sleeping in because of the time change (?) or Peter gave him the day off. But, he WILL know.
Dave Lowell
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10-27-2002, 01:48 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portland, OR area,
OR
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary CCX33868 Sold. Just "playin' the boards now."
Posts: 634
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Not Ranked
Just a thought, I did use studs, but only because I had aluminum heads and my builder recommended it. For cast iron heads, I honestly don't see the need unless you're planning to install a blower.
Just get new ARP bolts and you'll be fine both with the engine's durability and the ability to remove heads in the car.
Al
__________________
"If some is good, more is better.
And too much is just enough."
--Carroll Shelby
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10-27-2002, 03:12 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
Hi Chuck I have studs on my Shelby motor. I can get the heads off BUT you have to twist the motor to clear the body. Snap-On sells a stud remover for 7/16, 1/2, and 9/16 studs that you can use to remove the studs. Don't use VISEGRIPS. If worst case comes, put two nuts on the studs, tighen and remove that way. Studs are better that bolts are either Alumium or Iron heads. ARP is the way to go. Don't forget the harden flat washers. Rick Lake
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10-27-2002, 03:48 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: McLouth,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #664 finally done!
Posts: 19
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Not Ranked
Hey Chuck when are you getting your era, I live near KC and would like to check out an era, maybe save a trip to conn. mail me at charlieb@idir.net
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10-28-2002, 04:14 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: New Britain, CT,
Posts: 1,416
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Not Ranked
Chuck,
It looks like Rick is correct. The engine will have to come off of the mounts and raised/twisted. Even then, it will be tight.
__________________
Bob Putnam
- E.R.A.-
Please address parts inquiries to eraparts@sbcglobal.net
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10-28-2002, 05:27 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
To Bob P Thanks Bob, I learned from the master. Hows the roll bar coming? Chuck it is a bear to get whose heads off in the car. You can pull the motor in and hour, as to not scratch our car. Just a thought. Chuck you didn't say which heads you where using ? Bolts will work just fine if you are not building a 11.0-1 compression motor and not turning 7000 rpm. You have to use studs in a Shelby motor because the stress on the heads is being held from the bottom of the block. This block will take 2,000 hp and live. I am overkill for my car. Good Luck Rick Lake
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10-28-2002, 06:30 AM
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Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA # 665, 390 (to start with) Toploader
Posts: 652
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Not Ranked
It's pretty mild
10:1 compression, Iron MR heads, -AA cam. I think bolts will be fine, I'll probably use ARP though. Good point on pulling the motor in an hour. It's hard to imagine a scenario where I wouldn't pull the motor. Maybe replacing a head gasket along the side of the road during power tour? Sounds like a tow anyway.
Thanks, Chuck
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