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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-03-2015, 07:11 AM
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Dave,

You are absolutely correct in that none of the sealing in brake fittings is done with the threads. When I commented about the copper seat gasket interfering with the threads, my concern was that if it was a little too large, it could be tilted out of alignment with the flare before the fitting was tightened. You mentioned that the flare on your old brake line was deformed. That is generally a sign of over-tightening. Many brake system leaks are caused by over tightening of the fittings. The flare on the hose or steel brake line will deform very slightly to form a good seal, but that deformation should be almost imperceptible. I have found that it is best to tighten flare fittings the least amount possible to accomplish a leak free connection and tighten in very small increments as needed. Once a flare has been over tightened, it's usually ruined. Those little copper flare gaskets will help to accomplish a good seal with minimal tightening.

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Old 03-14-2016, 07:17 AM
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So, does anybody have an information on a specific part to reference with the normal part stores to see if I can get one of these brake lines? I can't find the information in the manual despite what Doug told me at ERA.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2016, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66gtk View Post
So, does anybody have an information on a specific part to reference with the normal part stores to see if I can get one of these brake lines? I can't find the information in the manual despite what Doug told me at ERA.
Look in the Maintenance Parts section toward the end of the manual. If they're not in there, email me for the link to the latest manual. eraparts<at>sbcglobal.net
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Old 03-14-2016, 12:51 PM
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Not an ERA car, but I used off the shelf braided lines with AN fittings and an adapter to mate with the 3/8" x 24 TPI fittings on the car. The adapters have the groove to take the clips that mount them to brackets on the frame. Here's a link to the Earl's adapters at Summit, but all the major fitting manufacturers make them: Earl's Performance Brake Adapters 989543ERL - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

The same thing by Russell: http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1291/overview/
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:54 PM
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Not an ERA car, but I used off the shelf braided lines with AN fittings and an adapter to mate ...]
Here's what you would be seeing if you had the ERA manual (don't tell Bob I showed it to you):

66gtk likes this.

Last edited by patrickt; 10-31-2016 at 12:29 PM..
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Old 03-14-2016, 04:43 PM
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Thanks! I couldn't get the fitting loose, even with 2 different flare nut wrenches I tried. Looks like I have to crush it and get it off with a vice grip?!?!? If I do that, I'll have to replace the hard line down the whole side of the car. This is unfortunate. 20 year old car with hardly any miles - I guess this is what can happen when cars sit too long.
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Old 03-14-2016, 04:48 PM
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Thanks! I couldn't get the fitting loose, even with 2 different flare nut wrenches I tried. Looks like I have to crush it and get it off with a vice grip?!?!? If I do that, I'll have to replace the hard line down the whole side of the car. This is unfortunate. 20 year old car with hardly any miles - I guess this is what can happen when cars sit too long.
Heat it up with a torch with a welding blanket behind it and use the flare wrench again. Be careful around flammables, of course.
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Old 03-14-2016, 05:37 PM
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Troy - here is what I've done with frozen brake and fuel line fittings when a brake line wrench appears to be slipping. Provided there is room, I get a set of vice grips and clamp over the top of the brake line wrench to clamp it tighter and prevent spreading. I've not had it fail on me yet that I can remember and I'm currently in the process of replacing all the original brake lines on my 49 year old 67 GTX right now. A shot of PB Blaster got most of them loose. The vice grips worked on a couple stubborn ones. I just have the two lines at the MC left.
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:05 PM
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Heat it up with a torch with a welding blanket behind it and use the flare wrench again. Be careful around flammables, of course.
like the gas tank, fuel hose, and filter right next to the brake line?
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:06 PM
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Troy - here is what I've done with frozen brake and fuel line fittings when a brake line wrench appears to be slipping. Provided there is room, I get a set of vice grips and clamp over the top of the brake line wrench to clamp it tighter and prevent spreading. I've not had it fail on me yet that I can remember and I'm currently in the process of replacing all the original brake lines on my 49 year old 67 GTX right now. A shot of PB Blaster got most of them loose. The vice grips worked on a couple stubborn ones. I just have the two lines at the MC left.

Interesting idea. I did PB blast it a few hours before trying. Put some more on there and will try again tomorrow or the next day.
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:12 PM
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like the gas tank, fuel hose, and filter right next to the brake line?
Uhhh, yeah. You can also use a heat gun, instead of a torch, if that feels a little safer. If you can get the connection nice and hot, without blowing yourself up, it will come apart rather easily.
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:05 AM
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Interesting idea. I did PB blast it a few hours before trying. Put some more on there and will try again tomorrow or the next day.
Forgot to mention that I have a couple sets of the smaller vice grips (about 4 to 5 inches long) that work pretty well for the smaller fittings. They are a lot easier to position in tight spaces than a full size set of vice grips. I've pretty much decided that line wrenches have been vastly over-promoted over the years. They work just slightly better than a regular box end wrench IMO.
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