427 Flywheel with Tremec TKO 600

[RestoCreations]

I was wondering which flywheel everybody likes for an aluminum Shelby 427 FE with a Tremec TKO600 Transmission. I see the Kirkhams recommend an aluminum flywheel, but it is 575.00. I have had aluminum flywheels in cars in the past and i do not necessarily care for them. I always found it annoying how it took longer for the revs to drop.

Anyway, please let me know your thoughts on this matter.
Thanks

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RestoCreations

I have had aluminum flywheels in cars in the past and i do not necessarily care for them. I always found it annoying how it took longer for the revs to drop.

That's interesting. My experience, and my conversations with other Cobra owners, show just the opposite -- that it revs down faster than a traditional heavy flywheel. I have a Centerforce aluminum flywheel, and it's quite nice. It's a running joke though that I overpaid for it by a good couple of hundred bucks.

[rodneym]

Originally Posted by patrickt

That's interesting. My experience, and my conversations with other Cobra owners, show just the opposite

ditto what patrickt said.
While I have no experience comparing flywheels, simple physics says that a heavier flywheel will be harder (take longer) to rev up as well as take longer to come down, although the difference may be negligible to us mortals.
rodneym

[patrickt]

I'll go one step further and say that it is my belief that an aluminum flywheel makes high rev shifts a bit safer because the likelihood of breaking the rear loose is lessened. Personally, I don't like breaking the tires loose on, say, the 2-3 shift at just under 70MPH. With the aluminum flywheel, it feels like the lesser amount of "stored energy" eases the shift somewhat. Now, of course, I could just be fooling myself.

[gsharapa]

Just finishing my 6th Cobra and this one is a 496 all aluminum FE with aluminum flywheel. All my Cobras have had an aluminum flywheel...

[Barry_R]

Aluminum is probably the right material for a road race application like a Cobra. The Fidanza is readily available (normally - they're on backorder right now with a January delivery date...) for under $400 and will work fine.

[blykins]

I prefer steel flywheels for street applications but you'll get differing opinions on that. If you're using an 11" Long style clutch, then the PRW billet steel flywheel is very nice for the money. If you're using an 11.5"/12" clutch, then you'll have to resort to one of the McLeod wheels.

If you're set on the aluminum wheels, the Fidanza wheel is about the best that I've seen. They weigh 14 lbs and have multiple clutch patterns along with a removable weight. I have them in stock and they are the best bang for the buck.....way cheaper than the McLeod, RAM, or Centerforce pieces.

If you would like some further information, feel free to email, PM, or give me a call: 502.759.1431

[RestoCreations]

Originally Posted by rodneym

ditto what patrickt said.
While I have no experience comparing flywheels, simple physics says that a heavier flywheel will be harder (take longer) to rev up as well as take longer to come down, although the difference may be negligible to us mortals.
rodneym

You're right Im tired and was thinking about the wrong engine combo from a long time ago-it was actually a very heavy cast flywheel. I had a clutch slippage problem with the aluminum flywheel.

[WardL]

I have aluminum and wonder if a steel flywheel wouldn't buck just a little less. I put the clutch in a lot to coast to a smooth stop. Someone should put a pencil to it an figure out if the momentum of a steel vs aluminum is significant compared to the momentum of the vehicle. The problem with driving impressions is your mind makes you think you prefer one over the other.....It is hard to be subjective.

[blykins]

Where you'll notice the difference is on the take-off.

Taking off on a hill with a finicky engine and a big cam can be hard on the clutch with an aluminum flywheel. That's why I like the steels for street use. You can almost just let the clutch out without giving it any gas...

You'll notice the revs (both going up and coming down) will be quicker with the aluminum.

[vector1]

Originally Posted by WardL

I have aluminum and wonder if a steel flywheel wouldn't buck just a little less. I put the clutch in a lot to coast to a smooth stop. Someone should put a pencil to it an figure out if the momentum of a steel vs aluminum is significant compared to the momentum of the vehicle. The problem with driving impressions is your mind makes you think you prefer one over the other.....It is hard to be subjective.

i have both with similiar engines, the heavier flywheel will "buck" a little less, how much is subjective but a heavy flywheel will do this also. quicker acceleration, quicker deceleration would be the benefits of a light flywheel, this part is noticeable.

[David Kirkham]

We certainly don't recommend an 11" clutch. You'll burn it up almost immediately. If you want a steel flywheel (no way on earth I'd use a cast iron flywheel), I'll post another one on the Attic sale in a bit--if I can find one

David

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by David Kirkham

We certainly don't recommend an 11" clutch. You'll burn it up almost immediately. If you want a steel flywheel (no way on earth I'd use a cast iron flywheel), I'll post another one on the Attic sale in a bit--if I can find one

David

The special one that y'all made that had all the holes in it is about as cool as it gets when it comes to flywheels. It's too bad you can't see it except when you're putting your clutch on.

[David Kirkham]

Originally Posted by patrickt

The special one that y'all made that had all the holes in it is about as cool as it gets when it comes to flywheels. It's too bad you can't see it except when you're putting your clutch on.

I have one in the prototype billet chassis car. It is a wild ride

David

[blykins]

Originally Posted by David Kirkham

We certainly don't recommend an 11" clutch. You'll burn it up almost immediately. If you want a steel flywheel (no way on earth I'd use a cast iron flywheel), I'll post another one on the Attic sale in a bit--if I can find one

David

David, I hate to disagree, but I've used 11" clutches for years on high horsepower big blocks, FE's, small blocks, you name it. Also, most aftermarket FE/385 series flywheels are only drilled for an 11" Long pattern so you don't have a choice.

There's absolutely no reason that you have to use an 11.5"/12" clutch, and there's no reason to give McLeod $350-400 for one of their flywheels so that you can do so.

The only way you'll burn one up is if you use a stock replacement disc behind a 450-500hp engine, or use a Centerforce....

I find that the biggest mistake made by dealers/installers is that they think they can get away with cheap clutch kits because Cobras are so light. A lot of my Club Cobra business comes from people needing to redo what the dealers did during the install. If you buy a kit to hold the horsepower, no matter 10.5", 11", or 11.5", you won't have any trouble with it.

[blykins]

BTW, X 2 on the cast iron wheels....

[David Kirkham]

Brent,

Hey, Please disagree all you want! I'm always glad to learn something new. What a great site. I'm always happy to save $$$ too. Thanks for the info!

You are right. It isn't the 11 inch diameter that is the problem (the clutch in the billet chassis car is only 7 1/2" in diameter). The problem must have been the disk.

David

[blykins]

David, you carry such clout on this website and I (along with everyone else) have a lot of respect for you.

You can understand that I didn't want all my Club Cobra customers in a panic, while dialing my number... "Hey, you sold me an 11" clutch and DK says it won't work!"

An 11" is perfectly fine as long as the whole package (plate and disc) is matched together.

[David Kirkham]

Originally Posted by blykins

David, you carry such clout on this website and I (along with everyone else) have a lot of respect for you.

You can understand that I didn't want all my Club Cobra customers in a panic, while dialing my number... "Hey, you sold me an 11" clutch and DK says it won't work!"

An 11" is perfectly fine as long as the whole package (plate and disc) is matched together.

I don't claim to have all the answers by any means. I am happy to learn from those with more and/or newer experience. Our experience with 11 inch clutches, I must admit, is old. When they didn't work, we quit using them. That doesn't mean someone hasn't come out with a newer, better product.

After all, I have a 8" clutch in my car. Granted, it is a twin disk.

David

[RestoCreations]

Originally Posted by David Kirkham

We certainly don't recommend an 11" clutch. You'll burn it up almost immediately. If you want a steel flywheel (no way on earth I'd use a cast iron flywheel), I'll post another one on the Attic sale in a bit--if I can find one

David

Thank you David, but i ordered a McCleod Steel flywheel last night from summit. I did not think you would stumble onto another one.

Brent-I meant to call you, but I was already placing a large order with summit racing. I will hit you up for the bellhousing and some of the other parts in the very near future.
Thanks