FE rocker adjustment and it still ticks - now what

[Grubby]

I have decided to replace all lifters and the rocker assemblies. It would be luck if I could get the end lifters out without dropping them. The ones toward the center would be easy.

We have a few months of driving left, so I don't want to waste a weekend with the engine apart.

My plan is to get some parts on order within the next 90 days or so and then fix it when the weather gets cold.

I will try to get the lifters out without pulling the intake. As long as I have parts on hand it is not a big deal if I drop one. Now to decide what rocker assemblies to purchase.

John

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Grubby

Now to decide what rocker assemblies to purchase.

Now as much as I love Brent, I still believe that when it comes to parts for our Cobras, and FE engines in particular, the more you spend, the better the stuff turns out to be.

[blykins]

You got a billet crank and rods in that FE of yours Patrick?

In regards to the rocker assemblies, I've sold a butt-load of PRW rockers (both aluminum and stainless) and have not heard any complaints from anyone. There's a big price gap between them and the next step up and if I were of the mind to buy Harland Sharps, I would just pay the extra couple hundred bucks and get the T&D's.

[patrickt]

OK, Brent and I are in agreement -- go ahead and spring for the T&D stuff. You can probably get a deal on them from the new #132 Motorsports that I've been reading about....

[blykins]

I personally wouldn't spend that much money on them for what he's doing. I would buy a set of PRW's or a set of Doug Garifo's rocker arms, stands, and shafts.

[Barry_R]

We sell a ton of the bolt on T&D systems and they are very, very nice parts with roller fulcrum and tip, and they include the mounting studs. But they also cost a fair chunk at just under 900 bucks. The normal billet end stand/stock style shaft/spacers and roller tip rocker combo will save a few hundy...

[lovehamr]

Originally Posted by blykins

I've sold a butt-load of PRW rockers

"butt-load" isa't a technical term?

[blykins]

It is in Kentucky....

[Keithc8]

We pretty much use the T&D stuff and then forget it. I have not used any of the other stuff that is out there not to say that it will not work but the price has always scared me. I assume that they must be made over seas and there are other things that we use that is made over seas as well that we have had no problem with.
It is hard to find a low cost rocker arm assembly for the FE but these that brent mentions might work fine in most cases, just have not tried them.
I have some brand new original Ford adjustable stock style rocker arm assemblys and they work fine on most hydraulic and solid flat tappet stuff if the spring pressure is not over about 350lbs. I also have some of these with the hardened shafts that have very little time on them. I would take 250.00 for either set and they would work fine for you as well.

Thanks, Keith

[Grubby]

Problems all fixed.

Replaced 16 lifters with Comp Cams lifters. I managed to fish them all in through the openings between the intake and the heads. The only down side was it is hard to get as much break in lube on as I would like. It ran off to an extent by the time I fished it to the proper hole.

I added Precision Oil Pumps end stands and Edlebrock studs.

I installed everything then started just long enough to get the oil pressure up. Immediately shut down and adjusted the rockers. Then ran at 2000-2500rpm for 30 minutes to break in the cam and lifters. I did use STP oil treatment to aid break in.

All noises are gone.

I noticed oil build up on #4 exh and #2 intake lifters. You can see them circled in the picture. Close up shots of them. In addition, I did find some serious wear on the left bank rocker shaft in the area of #8 intake/exh and #7 intake.

Replaced the shaft and the 3 rockers with OEM type Sealed Power parts.

I opted not to go with complete aftermarket rocker assemblies because all but the most expensive have a bushing on the shaft end like the OEM. I see no real benefit. For an engine with a more radical cam or that runs higher RPM I would definitely go with H and S or something similar. That is overkill for this mild engine.

John

[diegokid]

I may have overlooked it but who built this engine?

[Grubby]

The engine was built by a well known FE builder. You would all know him. I bought the car with 800 miles on it. I don't want to run a man's reputation down with second hand information.

When I spoke to him, he was surprised this engine had adjustable valve train. He uses OEM non-adjustable parts on the mild builds. That leaves a question in my mind as to who installed the worn rockers and shaft.

As for the ticking lifters; I would have asked the builder to stand behind them if I had paid for the engine. As second owner, I did not even ask.

A $200 repair is pretty cheap in this hobby.

John

[Barry_R]

Originally Posted by Barry_R

My bets - for what they are worth:
Debris in lifters
Worn rockers and/or shafts (they are 40 years old)
Broken or really weak shaft springs - I rarely use those anymore
Pushrod to intake contact - not likely with stock parts - but he did shim rockers over

Always nice to "win" a bet.....

[blykins]

Well, if you list a dozen things, chances are you'll hit it with one of them....

Just giving you a hard time.....