Oil Cooler Adapter Oil Leak

[Whodeeny]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Bolt holes are notorious for leaking on a remote filter adaptor. Mine are loaded up with gasket sealant so that it is goo-ing out of all four bolts holes. But when I looked at the picture I thought it was leaking from the fitting too. If you wrap the fitting tight with a paper towel, and then run the engine for 30 seconds, and unwrap the paper towel, it should be dry as a bone. I have Teflon tape on the threads of both lines going in to my adaptor. Of course, using UV dye with a black light will tell you instantly exactly where the oil is coming out.

I put Teflon tape on the threads of the hose fittings. Your comment about the bolt holes leaking is interesting. As I looked at it leaking I thought the leak may be coming from the bolt holes but I wondered how that could be. What kind of gasket sealant did you use on the bolts? I posted the picture above so that readers would know what I was talking about. Here is another picture with the engine running and the leak.

[patrickt]

I believe it is that black "ultra maximum oil resistant" Permatex RTV stuff. Here's a pic:

[spdbrake]

On you last photo it appears the upper (oil out hi-press) port is leaking. Could be cracked from the NPT fitting. (see right yellow arrow) Or as Patrick alluded to the bolt. (see left yellow arrow) Red arrow is gravity.





Just idea, you may want to swap to a different adapter.
http://www.hylube.com/products/feadapter.htm

[1795]

You might want to consider using an oil grade pipe sealant rather than RTV or teflon. I use a thread sealant that is used for natural gas, propane, oil, diesel and gas applications. It does not harden and forms a tight seal in the threads. I have found that Teflon can leak and if you retighten something with RTV you can break it loose after it has hardened. A good pipe sealant will form a lasting seal and since it does not harden, if you tighten the bolt further, it still adheres to the threads.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by 1795

You might want to consider using an oil grade pipe sealant rather than RTV or teflon. I use a thread sealant that is used for natural gas, propane, oil, diesel and gas applications.

Well, if you went by name alone, you can't beat this: https://www.gasoila.com/products/pip...-sealants.html

[1795]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Well, if you went by name alone, you can't beat this: https://www.gasoila.com/products/pip...-sealants.html

Patrick,

That would be the kind of stuff that I am talking about. Something that can withstand oil based products and they use it to seal the gas pipes in your house is good enough for me. Anyone deciding to try this approach, please read the label of the product that you are looking at, not all pipe/thread sealants are appropriate to use with oil based products.

[Whodeeny]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Well, if you went by name alone, you can't beat this: https://www.gasoila.com/products/pip...-sealants.html

There are nine different products at this link. Which one would you recommend?
BD

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Whodeeny

There are nine different products at this link. Which one would you recommend?
BD

I would first try the black ultra maximum oil resistant Permatex RTV. That has worked for a lot of us for years. If that still leaks, then I would get a new adaptor off that Summit link. Sometimes you can have a hairline crack that is really hard to see and just replacing the part for $25 is pretty easy. If it still leaks after that, then I would use the UV dye and black light to find the exact spot that it's coming from. I've battled almost every kind of leak on my FE and Cobra for nearly 15 years now and every one of them turned out to be simple after I finally figured them out, but some started off as mystery leaks that seemed impossible. A hairline crack in the metering block took a good year to finally find.