ERA Chas Chas I do almost that same as Barry R. with sealing a motor. I only use the gray sealer from either Ford or GM. The tube is not cheap. They stole this from Honda years ago. First off are you 100% sure that the surfaces are flat??
It sound like you have had this pan on and off a couple of times. Also the fact that you where trying to improve the sealing of the gasket. I do have a question about your motor, are you running breathers or PVC valve? If you keep getting leaks, it could be from too much pressure in the motor. Anything short of the gray RTV will leak. I run the same setup as you or the
oil pan and windage tray. I use a thin bead around the
oil pan in the middle and around each bolt hole I use Hi-Tac for the gasket to the windage tray on both sides. This needs time to get tacky and hold to the tray. After 10-15 minutes I glue the other gasket on on the windage tray and let set. Make sure there is NO
oil drops coming off the motor or coming down the skirt of the block. A thin bead of RTV around the top gasket between the block and windage tray. You want to give the RTV about 2-3 minutes to skin before installing the whole thing. If your pick up for the oil pump is a problem, Trim the windage tray to clear. I had to reweld mine with the stroker kit in the bottom end of the motor. The rod bolt where hitting the edge of the tray. You need 2 people to do this right. Install 2 front bolts or nuts, 2 rear nuts or bolts, then work your way either way to the front or the back until all bolts or nuts are finger tight with the gasket maken contact with the block. Go 2 times around tightening from one side to the other. to 10 inch pounds. Then make the final torque to spec. Give the motor 24 HOURS to fully CURE the RTV.
Fill with oil and road test. I and used this way for 14 years. The only problem I get is a small rear main seal leak some times. This is due to I over fill the motor for racing. Rick L. PS EVERY SURFACE MUST BE CLEANER THAN AN OPERATING TABLE OR YOU WILL HAVE LEAKS.
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