Roller CAM -FE

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Chaplin

Patrick- Fair 'nuf ;-)

So then you would agree that if one felt he could get sufficient horsepower for himself from a solid, flat tappet cam then a solid, flat tappet would be superior to a roller, for that person, if there was any additional maintenance required for the roller's distributor gear or if there was any shortened life of the roller's lifters, no matter how small that might be, correct?

[Chaplin]

Originally Posted by patrickt

So then you would agree that if one felt he could get sufficient horsepower for himself from a solid, flat tappet cam then a solid, flat tappet would be superior to a roller, for that person, if there was any additional maintenance required for the roller's distributor gear or if there was any shortened life of the roller's lifters, no matter how small that might be, correct?

As Jamo says, sounds like you've asplained it to your satisfaction.

Kidding aside, I don't necessarily agree. I will agree that if someone is willing to deal with the potential break-in issues because they prefer a solid flat-tappet, there is nothing wrong with running a solid flat tappet cam, as there can be no argument that they can make more than sufficient power.

However, remember, we're talking hyd roller, not solid roller. Production cars have been using hyd rollers with no issues for years in cars that see more mileage in their lifetime than your average 10 Cobras will see combined. Crane is making (or at least was making before they closed down and were bought out) a steel distributor gear to use with FE hyd roller cams that is advertised to wear like a factory steel- i.e, last 100k plus miles. I have one of their new steel gears on my dist now and will let you know how it works out (so far about 1500 miles and no issues at all (knock on wood)). But, even if Crane were not making the new steel gear and you had to replace the distributor gear periodically, that is a much easier (and faster) task than adjusting the valves. With the right tools and an asspert techinician you can change a dist gear on the side of road! Just ask Jamo. Try adjusting your valves on the side of the road. So for that reason, and the others mentioned, I still say a hyd roller is superior to a solid flat tappet for general street duty.

But if you like solid flat tappets, there aint nothing wrong with them at all.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Chaplin

... I still say a hyd roller is superior to a solid flat tappet for general street duty.

But if you like solid flat tappets, there aint nothing wrong with them at all.

Would you go so far as to say "If it were not for the break-in and lash adjustment issues, a solid flat tappet would be superior to both a hydraulic flat and hydraulic roller cam?"

[767Jockey]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Would you go so far as to say "If it were not for the break-in and lash adjustment issues, a solid flat tappet would be superior to both a hydraulic flat and hydraulic roller cam?"

Is there not an inherent advantage to a roller (either hydraulic or solid) that within a given lift, duration and overlap profile, the roller allows for a more aggressive (quicker) opening and closing of the valve via a more aggressive lobe profile than is possible with a flat tappet with the same specs? I was always under the assumtion that this was one of the biggest advantages of a roller over a flat tappet cam. Again, maybe I'm all wet here, but.......

[Chaplin]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Would you go so far as to say "If it were not for the break-in and lash adjustment issues, a solid flat tappet would be superior to both a hydraulic flat and hydraulic roller cam?"

No, I still think the hyd roller is better for all of the reasons I had in my post on the other thread that you copied and pasted above. They are just an inherently different design, with the lobe profiles on the hyd roller allowing you to get more bang for you buck at any given duration.

Jamo-
The cam gear is hardened steel also.