FE oil pump ????

[Argess]

After some research into old FE articles, it seemed like 80 psi would be a good max to set the oil pump relief spring. I believe that old adage about 10 psi for every 1000 rpm relates to Chevs only.

Oh...before I go on, I should mention that I am a firm believer in that bearings need the same amount of oil pressure and flow to keep sufficent lubrication regardless of engine brand. The only reason a FE needs more than a Chev, is the longer, narrower (more restrictive) oil galleries. We may wind up with different rpessures at the gauge location, but the final pressure at the bearings should be the same. Just my opnion.

So.....I removed the oil pump relief press-in plug, removed the spring and tapped the oil pump housing with a 5/8-27 tap (not a common tap, but other threads could be used). I then threaded a piece of brass stock, and then made it into a cup shape with my metal lathe. Finally, on the flat side, I drilled two small "blind" holes so I could turn the cup with a snap-ring pliers.

Next, using 1/4" Al plate, I made two adapters for the oil pump. On the outlet plate, I installed a gauge, and then a valve.

I installed the spring and the plug, put on the plates, and cranked the oil pump with a 1/2 Hp electric drill. Once the oil was flowing and no air was left in the pump, I closed the valve to increase the pressure to max.

First attempt I couldn't get close. Tried a different spring. Now I was getting somewhere. Adjusted the oil pressure for about 83 psi max. The gauge was pulsing a lot, so I sort of went with an average figure.

I then staked the tope of the plug in two spots so it wouldn't turn during operation.

I was worried the drill wasn't powerful enough, or spinning fast enough to simulate the engine, but everything turned out fine. Cold idle start-up, I got 85 psi (which is also max for hot oil at higher rpms).

So....what this did for me, was allow me to adjust the oil pump wihtout having to keep installing and re-installing the pump. That's a pain as the oil-pan has to come off, new gaskets are required, and the car has to be jacked up and put on axle stands each time.

As an aside, let me go on a bit about Mallory distributors and HV pumps. It wasn’t very long after installing the Mallory, that my engine suddenly died while driving. The split pin holding the distributor gear to the shaft broke in 3 pieces. This was caused by fatigue….continued bending of the pin. Why? Because the Mallory gear is a sloppy fit to the Mallory shaft. A Ford typically had the gear pressed on the shaft and can be a pain to get the pin holes lined up. Not being sure if this was normal or not, I ordered a new shaft and gear through Summit. On backorder. So, like a dummy, I ordered a whole Mallory distributor, since it was in stock.

Subsequently, I contacted Mallory. They told me the pin usually breaks when using a HV oil pump, and of course, that’s what I was using.

I then modified both distributors. The original pin was 1/8” diameter. If memory serves me correctly, I re-drilled the hole through the gear and shaft with a #21 (or it may have been a #22) drill and pressed in a 5/32” split pin with another 3/32” pin “nested” inside it. Splits 180 Deg apart, up and down. So far, and 3000 miles later, the modified pin is holding up fine.

And then I spent the best money I ever spent. I purchased a Pertornix unit for the distributor....about $70. Acceleration was very clean after that.