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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2009, 06:43 AM
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Default FE oil pump ????

How many of you are using the precesion oil pump Melling HV?

Also, it comes with a high pressure kit which consist og high pressure spring and spacer.

What are you guys using ....
1. nothing
2. high pressure spring
3. high pressure spring and spacer
4. factory spring and spracer
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2009, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by priobe View Post
How many of you are using the precesion oil pump Melling HV?Also, it comes with a high pressure kit which consist og high pressure spring and spacer.What are you guys using ....

1. nothing
2. high pressure spring
3. high pressure spring and spacer
4. factory spring and spracer
I bought a standard Melling 57 HV and had it blueprinted locally. I have Doug's kit but haven't used it. I am at 28 at hot idle and 55 down the road. He said if I added the spring I would get another 10 psi and with both I think another 20. Not sure it would be worth the effort.
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:45 AM
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something to consider----usually a higher pressure spring or higher volume pump will just cause more bypass oil back into the pan, which results in higher temps, excess spray into an already turbulent atmosphere, and possibly worst foaming

It would be wonderful if a pump/system could easily be used that was the correct flow for the system without over sized gears or higher pressures
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:45 AM
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I used one from Precision Oil pumps on my 427. Hot idle was at 50 and down the road was 75. He has many other parts as well. The rockers, stands and shaft are very nice pieces.
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:27 PM
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Titan, Precision, Ford Racing are all a better choice.
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordzilla View Post
Titan, Precision, Ford Racing are all a better choice.
What experiences have you had with those vs the POP pumps?
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:35 PM
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i have used high pressure pumps before they were once avail from ford and trw.
if you are racing with factory rod diameters this was a bandaid to keep the motor alive in high rpms. to use the high pressure pump you also used .001 undersize rod bearings for a place for the oil to go, thus your rods ran on a thin layer of oil. so when using steel cranks (factory) this is a good idea to keep from spinning a bearing, usually #7 is the first to fail. if you have an aftermarket crank with sbc rod journals the high pressure pump is unnecessary and the high volume is fine. when racing these engines if we did not have at least 80psi at idle we had problems, it was usual to have 100 or more psi at higher rpms. if you are street driving a factory crank keeping under 6000 rpm i wouldn't stress over the high pressure pump.
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Old 06-20-2009, 01:40 PM
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other mod along with HP pump with factory components. this is a pic of lemans rods with special pins pressed into the caps to keep the rod bearings from spinning. i actually am selling these. bearings are avail for this application still.

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Old 06-20-2009, 04:37 PM
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Melling HV, printed it myself. 60 psi at idle and 100 psi above 3200 rpm. Relief valve and spring removed.
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Old 06-20-2009, 05:01 PM
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Question What other modified things are being done to the motor?

Priobe I use a HVHP 57 oil pump that gets a little blueprinting done to it. Just polishing and gasket matching of the outlet into the block. I do run a 100# psi spring in the motor and have for 11 years of racing. If you are running a FE crank and rods, ALOT depends on the clearance of them. The orginial .003" for clearance is huge. 100 psi is needed for 6,500 rpms for the bottom end to live with a LOOSE bottom end. Today we are running alot tighter clearances. I run under .002" on rods and .002" on mains in a shelby block. This thing also grows when it gets hot. Thats Aluminum. My Block is also running a stroker kit (482) from Barry R. with BBC rods. These rods don't need the high pressure of 100 psi like FE rods do. IMO, I have left the 100# pump in the motor and get 35-40 psi at idle hot and run between 75-80 psi on the track. I also flood my heads with oil for the cooling the oil does on the valve springs. I have orfices in the heads with Erson rockers, they are .080" holley jets. I also have pushrod oiling to the rockers. This is to get the oil to the contact point of the pushrod and adjust of the rocker. Splash doesn't always get the oil to where it needs to be.
If you are running a street motor and not under heavy abuse, IMO a 80# spring will be fine for the motor. You will also need to run between 1- 11/2 quarts of oil over full so that the pump doesn't run dry. You will also need to keep an eye on the distributor gear for wear. This is important even with a 60# spring in the pump. I have never seen a motor damaged from too much oil unless it filled a cylinder( hydrolock). I have run same bearings for 8 years with my high pressure. Bearing where perfect after 8 years. IMO run the 80# spring and make sure that the returns to the oil pan have no gaskets( heads ) partially blocking the returns. This will delay the oil returning to the pan. This I have seen and had to fix myself running Felpro 1020 head gaskets.
If money is no object, a Titan oil pump is great with adjustments. The real winner is going drysump. Which ever way you go just remember that you loose about 10-20 psi of pressure to the rockers from the bottom of the motor. Rick L.
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Old 06-20-2009, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineslinger View Post
Melling HV, printed it myself. 60 psi at idle and 100 psi above 3200 rpm. Relief valve and spring removed.

What brand of filter withstands those pressures?
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Old 06-20-2009, 05:53 PM
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Priobe, I am running their HV pump in my 427 and im very satisfied they were great to deal with and very helpful.
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:11 PM
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so the high pressure kit from precision oil pumps gives you what psi

the what should I expect with the added spacer


Is there a tension reading that I can do on the spring to determine what spring I have ?
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
What brand of filter withstands those pressures?
System 1.

Originally I shimmed the pressure relief spring to gain the 100psi OP I was looking for. Virtually no change in OP with pressure relief valve "bypassed", spring and plunger removed.
427 SO w/solids stroked to 482.
I was taught this high OP trick from an old FE guy who does all the machine work on my motors. If prepped and sealed properly its good protection at any rpm.
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:26 PM
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lineslinger,

Are speaking of the plunger and the spring in the pump or the back of the block is removed?
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
What experiences have you had with those vs the POP pumps?
Like Titan the best but nothing wrong with Ford Racing pumps.
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Last edited by Fordzilla; 06-20-2009 at 07:11 PM..
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by priobe View Post
lineslinger,

Are speaking of the plunger and the spring in the pump or the back of the block is removed?
Back of the block. The pump relief is shimmed.
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:07 PM
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lineslinger
ok sorry I am still not getting it.

did you remove the plunger from the rear of the block or from the oil pump?


Rick
I will give you a call tomorrow because of how late it is.
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by priobe View Post
lineslinger
ok sorry I am still not getting it.
did you remove the plunger from the rear of the block or from the oil pump?

The plunger and spring at the back of the block were removed.

The pressure relief assembly in the oil pump was left intact but modified.
The pressure relief spring in the oil pump was shimmed, thus a shorter spring travel to help insure a certain amount of relief but only at higher pressures, 100 psi and up.

The combination of these two mods insures a higher level of oil pressure throughout the RPM range.
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Old 06-20-2009, 09:36 PM
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lineslinger

what did you put in place of the plunger in spring in the back of the block?
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