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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2017, 08:04 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
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Originally Posted by steve meltzer View Post
OK, it's the starter ("jumping the solenoid" didn't change a thing. No alternator moving, WP, etc. Ran out of time (OK, wanted to nap) so I haven't gotten under the car to pull the starter. (Powermaster 6905??).

Yesterday, I hooked up my remote starter but it wouldn't start (this was BEFORE the starter failed). Might have hooked it up wrong..PLEASE refresh my memory about where the two clips are placed.

Should I put the "110s" in? I had "H"s which, according to the poop sheet, is a "97". I thought vaseline was bad for viton, so, no I didn't use it. I can tell you, as a gynecologist, that when we were "told" to use it in high school, that was bad advice!

4 Threads showing atop the primary bowl, with the adjusting nut and set screw off.

thanx. s

Looking at the front of the starter solenoid, there are two connections. The one on the LEFT engages the solenoid when it is fed 12v+. (The connection on the right is to bypass your ballast resistor - ignore it.) With your remote starter switch, clamp one prong on the big pole of the starter solenoid that leads directly to the battery, put the other prong to the left connection on the front of the solenoid. When you pull the trigger on the switch, your solenoid will engage and your engine will crank (unless the starter is broken).

With an H on the old N/S, you should be using a .110 -- fortunately, switching them out is a five minute job. You do not put Vaseline down on the viton tip, you just put a light schmear on your finger and wipe the black O-ring that is in the middle of the N/S valve.

Let's start by putting in the .110 N/S valves, with a light dab of Vaseline on the O-ring, and tighten them down to where you see, just barely, 3 threads. We just want to get the car to start, idle, and not spew gas all over the engine. Then we'll get it perfect after we first get it to work.

Regarding the starter motor, I still run the old school Ford OEM starter motor -- they're about $50 and NAPA usually has them in the back of the shop. But it's usually easier to replace your starter with the same one you had in there before.
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