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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2006, 09:30 PM
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Default Need new short block

Keith, my 427 side oiler took a dump and I need to get a replacement for it. A new side oiler is beyond my budget. What kinds of options do you have. I need an FE since all the other stuff I have is for the FE. I have Edelbrock heads and intake with a Holley 750 double pumper. What do you have in a short block? And what are their costs. Thanks. Chas
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Old 07-23-2006, 06:10 AM
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Default Kieth's da bomb...

Not trying to obligate for Kieth, but I got a quote from him for a Pond aluminum 482" FE SO short block with a big hydraulic roller.. It was in the $8K range. A Genesis iron block would be around $7K, I'd imagine.. A Hyd/solid flat tappit cam also would be significantly less. Kieth's skill, reputation and customer service is beyound reproach! I'll be placing my order shortly myself.

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Old 07-24-2006, 01:02 AM
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Well when it comes to the FE engine and you do not use the 427 block you really only have two good choices left. That is to use a 390 or 428 block. The 428 blocks that were made from 67 to 70 are getting pretty expensive because the restorers are wanting them to do original cars with and they bring pretty good money. I have sold some of these blocks for 1500.00 un-machined. What we have been using are the 428CJ service blocks which are just as good if not better than the originals. I have several of these blocks that we have baked, tumbled, crack checked, tapped and sonic tested. I can sell these blocks for about 600.00 more than a 390 block and I feel that is makes a good way to go. You get a bigger bore and they are 3 web blocks for some extra strength. If you use one of these blocks at .030 over with a Scat 4.250 crankshaft you get about 460C.I. out of the engine. We have done several of these that make between 500 to 600HP depending on the camshaft and heads used. These were premium pump gas engines.
One of these short blocks with the fully machined 428CJ service block with the Scat cast steel crankshaft, Scat 6.700 Ibeam rods, Diamond pistons, rings, bearings, zero balanced and assembled would run about 4000.00 with out the camshaft and timing set. It would just depend on what you want to run on that for the price. The 390 block deal would run about 600.00 less. You could save some by using a stock 428 crankshaft and rods but not much. You can save even more with a 390 crankshaft and set of rods but you would have a lot smaller engine. Hope this helps a little bit with your short block choice. Thanks, Keith
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:58 AM
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Keith, Thanks for your quick response. If I wanted to have you do the whole short block, how long of a wait would it be?
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Old 07-24-2006, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chas427fe
Keith, my 427 side oiler took a dump and I need to get a replacement for it. A new side oiler is beyond my budget. What kinds of options do you have. I need an FE since all the other stuff I have is for the FE. I have Edelbrock heads and intake with a Holley 750 double pumper. What do you have in a short block? And what are their costs. Thanks. Chas
I have a fresh, never-run 1964 date coded center oiler short block, taken out to 472 CI. PM me if interested. I am flexible on price and payment terms.
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Old 08-24-2006, 06:09 PM
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Keith, got my engine today. Thanks for the fast turn around. Just one question, the instruction sheet says 34 degrees advance. At what RPM? Thanks, Chas
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Old 08-25-2006, 04:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chas427fe
Keith, got my engine today. Thanks for the fast turn around. Just one question, the instruction sheet says 34 degrees advance. At what RPM? Thanks, Chas
That would be total advance.. base timing + timing in distributor. The "At what RPM" would be dependent on the "timing curve" of your distributor. Factory and aftermarket distributors typically have internal springs which hold back centrifugal weights, all working in conjunction to develop a timing curve. As rpm increases centrifugal force tend to make the weights "fly" outward, increasing timing. The springs hold back the weights, keeping the timing retarded. By substituting springs of different tensions you can control the point that your distributor timing comes in.

So here's what you do... get the engine running, where it'll idle. Set your timing light up on it. While the engines running have someone watch the tach while you’re doing it. Have the guy watching the tach slowly give the car gas, increasing rpm. You need to be watching the timing light while it's accelerating. When your timing plateaus ask the guy what rpm the engine's at. Make a mental note of that. Ask him to increase it another 200 rpms. At that point, with the timing light on, you can twist the distributor to give yourself 34 deg of timing. Lock down the distributor. Let the engine idle down. Recheck the timing (base timing). It should be around 10 deg to 16 deg. I would also recommend that you call Keith with what your base timing is and what the rpms are when all your timing's in. He built it; he'll know what's best.


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Old 08-28-2006, 05:25 PM
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Dave, thanks for the help. I am getting closer. I have a small oil leak at the intake manifold to fix, change the oil pan because I put on a Canton while I had it out, trouble is I only have 1 3/4" ground clearance. I am going to put the stock one back on because it is 3/4" shorter. I also need to put a larger battery cable on and I will be on the road.
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