Hydraulic jack

ng8264723 · #1 (**permalink**) 06-12-2010, 07:25 AM

What type and model of jack do you guys use? My Hein and werner will not fit under the car! I can't get it on the dang lift either. I had an idea to buy some 2X8's and lay them down and drive on them and then slide the lift arms under the car. What do you guys think?
thanks
Chris

Got the Bug · #2 (**permalink**) 06-12-2010, 07:53 AM

I'm using this low profile jack from Summit. It fits under the back even when the front is up on jackstands.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1020/

There may be lighter options available. Take a look at Harbor Freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...w+profile+jack

cdnus · #3 (**permalink**) 06-12-2010, 08:26 AM

I made 4 blocks from 2x12 & positioned them under the tires, I can fit my large truck jack under & can raise the car to max height in 1 go.
The rear is single thickness with taper front & rear so the front wheels can drive over, the front are double thickness with a taper on the leading edge & a 2x2 stop on the top front.
I anchor them with lag bolts that can be easily removed if they are in the way while working under the car. I find it no problem to park on top of these all the time & when I need to raise the car it's very quick & easy.

Craig

ng8264723 · #4 (**permalink**) 06-12-2010, 09:29 AM

My lift seems to have high lift arms. I wonder if I should follow your advice Craig. So you have 4 separate blocks you drive on? I was thing of a lone piece that iI could drive on. Maybe a 2X12X10? That should fit the wheel base of my Cougar as well. It seems I have this problem with a lot of my cars. My 03 Cobra is knida low to

ng8264723 · #5 (**permalink**) 06-12-2010, 09:31 AM

I just saw that low profile Jack. I already have a real nice floor Jack. Maybe I'll buy the 2X12's it will be cheaper and solve the lift issue as well. I'm worried that driving on them will cause them to move though. I wonder if they will slide if not fastened to the floor

cdnus · #6 (**permalink**) 06-12-2010, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ng8264723

My lift seems to have high lift arms. I wonder if I should follow your advice Craig. So you have 4 separate blocks you drive on? I was thing of a lone piece that iI could drive on. Maybe a 2X12X10? That should fit the wheel base of my Cougar as well. It seems I have this problem with a lot of my cars. My 03 Cobra is knida low to

Yes I have 4 blocks.
It would seem to me if you used 1 long piece,that would defeat your purpose as you would still have inadequate clearance on the sides for your arms.
With my setup almost the entire side of the car is open, the front is raised 4in. & the rear is 2in.
If you need more than that to fit your arms under, just add more levels.
NOTE: be careful on the rear, too much height & you will bottom out when the front goes over. (I knew you would figure that out, just threw it in for luck)

Craig

cdnus · #7 (**permalink**) 06-12-2010, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ng8264723

I just saw that low profile Jack. I already have a real nice floor Jack. Maybe I'll buy the 2X12's it will be cheaper and solve the lift issue as well. I'm worried that driving on them will cause them to move though. I wonder if they will slide if not fastened to the floor

I put 2 lag bolts in each block into the floor to prevent them sliding---because they will.
Once the car is on stands it's simple to remove the blocks for clearance for your creeper etc. if you need it.

Craig

kobrabytes · #8 (**permalink**) 06-20-2010, 04:21 PM

My floor jack is a Harbor Freight low profile aluminum jack.

The better question is: "What are you going to use if you get a flat?"

I've been there! The frame sits about two inches off the ground with a flat tire. We ended up finding a flat stone to roll the tire onto to get enough height to use a jack out of a mustang.

I am thinking about one of these:

http://www.gardenofspeedin.com/produ...il=1513&sub=36

I'd like to get David and Thomas building something like that.

BTW, spinners are a ***** to get off when they are hot!

len

FUNFER2 · #9 (**permalink**) 06-20-2010, 04:48 PM

I have my cobra very low, so I use low profile ramps to drive up on, then I have a two post, 4 arm car lift. Works fast, easy, low cost and small to store away.

$35

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-C...motiveQ5fTools

This is my lift. I would not,...do without it now !

For low ceiling height and stores away if need being. 110 volt.
Contact me for more information.

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/

ng8264723 · #10 (**permalink**) 06-22-2010, 01:44 AM

Can you get enough access with 2 ramps? Or did you buy 4?

Lew Ledyard · #11 (**permalink**) 07-05-2010, 01:02 PM

AC Hydraulics low profile jack.

Rick Parker · #12 (**permalink**) 07-05-2010, 01:27 PM

I took (4) 2' long pieces of 2"X8". One cut on each piece at 45 degree angle. Lay one on top of the other with about 6"-8" overlap. Use sheetrock screws to fasten the two pieces together. You'll end up with ramps with angled leading edges that will ultimately raise the car about 3.5" with sort landings that prevent the ramps from skidding. I use them alone to raise the car for draining coolant or oil, or so I can get my cheapie Harbor Freight jack under the low hung front crossbar if I want to raise it further for jack stands. Recessed holes can also be drilled to allow for a bolt to be inserted into the concrete to prevent them from sliding (not really required). Not the best solution but for about $15.00 it works.

WardL · #13 (**permalink**) 04-06-2011, 10:26 PM

This isn't the thread I was reading recently, but same subject...I just bought a low profile jack from Costco for $90. I had seen them before in Costco but they looked too big, but someone was talking about a low profile jack. Now I notice you guys are talking aluminum construction. The Costco jack feels like it is made out of lead as it is one heavy sucker! I suppose once I get it together and on the floor of the garage I won't be lifting it in and out of the trunk!

COBRANIP · #14 (**permalink**) 04-06-2011, 11:35 PM

Instead of lag bolts, I attached the 2"x12"(s) to 1/2" OSB (with a 45 degree bevel). The OSB is about 12" longer than the 2"x12"(s) and screwed (thru the bottom) to the 2"x12"(s). The OSB is so low that when you drive up on to that part of the "ramp" it will not slide. Once the weight of your car is on the OSB (only), then when you go up the 2"x12"(s) they cannot slide....at least mine don't.

sllib · #15 (**permalink**) 04-07-2011, 06:16 AM

Attach a piece of rope, longer than your wheelbase, to each ramp. Before you drive up on the ramp lay the rope out so the rear tires will be on the rope when you hit the ramp. The ramp won't move.
Bill Stradtner

dcdoug · #16 (**permalink**) 04-07-2011, 12:44 PM

Race Ramps also makes products for this purpose, but will cost more than making your own from wood.

ng8264723 · #17 (**permalink**) 04-12-2011, 04:38 PM

I have been using four wheel dollies. I jack up the back first. I'm careful not to go too high when jacking the back. I then add the dollies. I then can fit the jack under the front. I add the front dollies and can then slide the car around to perfectly position it on my lift
Chris

Clayboy · #18 (**permalink**) 04-12-2011, 08:14 PM

I made a cheap lift from salvaged engineered floor joists based on a design that I first saw in Red Barchetta's gallery several years ago. It solved my problem of getting under the car to work on it. Check out the photos in my gallery. When I want to simply use my floor jack, like others have mentioned, I simply drive on pieces of 2x10's. It gets me high enough to get my Harbor Freight jack under the car to insert jack stands.