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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 11-06-2011, 05:23 PM
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Default Electrical Relays help

Hey everybody,

I didn't know whether to post this in here or the technical section but I figured some of you Kirkham owners must have dealt with this before.

My EFI system, the FAST EZ-EFI set up, requires connecting a fuel pump wire from the ECU harness, to the car's fuel pump relay.
I have found the relay and which side it is supposed to go in but my question is more towards how I should do it.... Do I just put the EFI wire into the same connector as that 85 wire is already plugged in? Do I tap into that 85 wire? Do I remove the 85 wire? Right now it is hooked up to be usually manually with dash mounted switch.

Let me know if my question is not very clear, maybe I can explain it a different way.

Thanks!


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Old 11-06-2011, 06:51 PM
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Arnaud, you don't need the ground signal from the dash switch to pin 85 for your setup unless you want to manually switch on the pump. Either remove the current wire to pin 85 (disables the dash switch) or connect your EZ fuel pump wire also (enables both ecu control and manual override).

Hey, if you disconnect the dash switch, you could always use it to control a seat heater to keep your buns warm during those brisk Chicago drives!
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Old 11-06-2011, 06:53 PM
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According to the schematic you posted, the "fuel pump relay" wire from the EZ-EFI harness should provide a ground when it wants the fuel pump turned on to post 85.

Actually the wiring in the picture does not follow the wiring diagram. The yellow wire shouldn't jumper between the terminals. The diagram shows a direct battery connection thru a fuse, and a switched connection at post 86. The picture shows what I'm guessing is a feed thru the ignition switch.Should be normal off with ignition switch off, then it should have battery power with ignition switch powered on.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mreid View Post
Arnaud, you don't need the ground signal from the dash switch to pin 85 for your setup unless you want to manually switch on the pump. Either remove the current wire to pin 85 (disables the dash switch) or connect your EZ fuel pump wire also (enables both ecu control and manual override).

Hey, if you disconnect the dash switch, you could always use it to control a seat heater to keep your buns warm during those brisk Chicago drives!
Mark, a seat heater does sound really good, even right now What you explained is how I interpreted it the first time, but I was not sure because I've never had to tap into a relay before. BTW, is that your car in the Fast Five pictures on the RCR website? Looks pretty sweet

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Originally Posted by Racer_X View Post
According to the schematic you posted, the "fuel pump relay" wire from the EZ-EFI harness should provide a ground when it wants the fuel pump turned on to post 85.

Actually the wiring in the picture does not follow the wiring diagram. The yellow wire shouldn't jumper between the terminals. The diagram shows a direct battery connection thru a fuse, and a switched connection at post 86. The picture shows what I'm guessing is a feed thru the ignition switch.Should be normal off with ignition switch off, then it should have battery power with ignition switch powered on.
Thank you for your input. I also did find that jump strange, but I guess it is how they wire it. The fan relay, which I also have to plug into, is located in the far picture, with the gray wires. That relay has the same jump between 30 and 87. I believe that the 30 power source just comes in via a switched power source on 87, but that is probably what you described. So then, are you saying I should fix it so it is like the diagram or just leave it like that (and hook it up like Mark said)?


Thanks again guys.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Avmaviator View Post
Thank you for your input. I also did find that jump strange, but I guess it is how they wire it. The fan relay, which I also have to plug into, is located in the far picture, with the gray wires. That relay has the same jump between 30 and 87. I believe that the 30 power source just comes in via a switched power source on 87, but that is probably what you described. So then, are you saying I should fix it so it is like the diagram or just leave it like that (and hook it up like Mark said)?


Thanks again guys.
I would connect #30 thru the fuse direct to the battery source, just like the schematic shows. That amount of current will burn out the ignition switch feeding the fan. Wouldn't hurt for the fuel pump either.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:51 AM
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I just went out and checked mine. I was sure the fan and fuel pump must feed through the BATTERY strip in the fuse box which does not go through the ignition switch, but I was wrong. Of the dash switches, only the headlights work without the key on. Both the fuel pump and fan are fed through the RUN or ON position of the ignition switch to the IGNITION strip in the fuse box, through their respective fuses and to the relay (as are the wipers). That said, I'm sure the harness manufacturer wouldn't wire it this way if it was a problem and I haven't heard of any other Kirkham owners having a problem.

As for Fast 5, I had to go to RCR's site to check and I think it is. They bought my car for the beauty shots and it is used in the close ups, particularly when they disassemble and then reassemble the car looking for the chip (not that cheesy radio shot, if you look closely you can tell that is not the car and edited pretty poorly). They also bought 3 or 4 mules from Fran for destruction, camera mock ups, and distance shots. You can tell in the movie when it is my car in several scenes where the black Gurney Weslake valve covers, aluminum plated dash and labelled switches, passenger side battery cutoff switch, and red brake calipers are shown. Here are a couple of pictures you may recognize in the movie (they repainted the car so the camera and crew wouldn't reflect):



They also ditched the dual carbs:



Here it is after the repaint:

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Old 11-07-2011, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mreid View Post
I just went out and checked mine. I was sure the fan and fuel pump must feed through the BATTERY strip in the fuse box which does not go through the ignition switch, but I was wrong. Of the dash switches, only the headlights work without the key on. Both the fuel pump and fan are fed through the RUN or ON position of the ignition switch to the IGNITION strip in the fuse box, through their respective fuses and to the relay (as are the wipers). That said, I'm sure the harness manufacturer wouldn't wire it this way if it was a problem and I haven't heard of any other Kirkham owners having a problem.

As for Fast 5, I had to go to RCR's site to check and I think it is. They bought my car for the beauty shots and it is used in the close ups, particularly when they disassemble and then reassemble the car looking for the chip (not that cheesy radio shot, if you look closely you can tell that is not the car and edited pretty poorly). They also bought 3 or 4 mules from Fran for destruction, camera mock ups, and distance shots. You can tell in the movie when it is my car in several scenes where the black Gurney Weslake valve covers, aluminum plated dash and labelled switches, passenger side battery cutoff switch, and red brake calipers are shown. Here are a couple of pictures you may recognize in the movie (they repainted the car so the camera and crew wouldn't reflect):
Great, thanks Mark, I appreciate. I will wire it up and see what happens, if something goes wrong, I have the winter to fix it

That is really neat about the GT40 I haven't seen the movie yet but I want to check it out even more now. Although your car will probably be second to the awesome acting in that movie
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Racer_X View Post
I would connect #30 thru the fuse direct to the battery source, just like the schematic shows. That amount of current will burn out the ignition switch feeding the fan. Wouldn't hurt for the fuel pump either.
+1. Remove all heavy current away from the ignition switch.

It also isolates each circuit from each other to prevent feedback spikes from keeping things on. Eg: fans keeping the stereo powered up.
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