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394Likes

06-04-2013, 12:12 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Manchester,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: AK1085 (302 Street), HTM111 (427 Comp), CSX2375R (289 Comp) and COB5999 (427 S/C)
Posts: 19,111
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Not Ranked
Mark
The driveshaft from base of the flange yoke to center of trans yoke is 9 5/8". I have about 1/8" to the trans boot then it will sqeeze an additional 3/4". Keep in mind I have IRS so the only movement of the trans yoke will be motor movement in the rubber mounts. Motor, bellhousing, trans and differential all connected to frame thus stuck fast. Movement comes from the half shafts.
The trans height does not offer a straight shot to the diffy. The drive shaft is designed for slight offsett using 1310 ujoints. In order to drop the trans low enough to make straight shot I would have to shave bottom of trans, lower trans mount, possibly cut out and lower crossmember or notch it. At that point I would push into the driveway and light her up.....  Then buy a KMS....
This set up will work just fine... 
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06-04-2013, 02:57 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Mendota,
IL
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 697
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Not Ranked
Thank Jeff Please don't take the wrong way. I wasn't saying there is anything wrong with your setup. I was just asking questions to help straighten out some problems I might be having with mine. I was asking about the trans mount adjustment because small changes can fix drive line vibration problems. My u joint working angles are not equal so I think I need to work on the mount. I to am trying to build to original specs and as accurately as possible.
Mark
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06-05-2013, 08:10 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Manchester,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: AK1085 (302 Street), HTM111 (427 Comp), CSX2375R (289 Comp) and COB5999 (427 S/C)
Posts: 19,111
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Not Ranked
Mark
No negative taken....  we are cool
I am getting itchy for a drive and just need to assemble and leave it be. I have done my best to follow the old school technique and think I did a good job.
Just at the point where once its on the car it is there until it falls off...
Set gas cap ito body last night so its time to order braided cloth lines.....
Also starting inner panels to the frame... Yikes this just might be on the road soon.
Thanks guys!
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07-21-2013, 03:05 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Near Chichester, Sussex by the sea......,
UK
Cobra Make, Engine: Crendon 427 S/C 428 FE+toploader
Posts: 668
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985 CCX
Mark
No negative taken....  we are cool
I am getting itchy for a drive and just need to assemble and leave it be. I have done my best to follow the old school technique and think I did a good job.
Just at the point where once its on the car it is there until it falls off...
Set gas cap ito body last night so its time to order braided cloth lines.....
Also starting inner panels to the frame... Yikes this just might be on the road soon.
Thanks guys!
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car is looking good.
i wonder, could you tell me exactly what bolts those are? - I dont recognise the head emblem - presumably some imperial variant? Im guessing the same were used on 427 cars?
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07-22-2013, 07:10 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Manchester,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: AK1085 (302 Street), HTM111 (427 Comp), CSX2375R (289 Comp) and COB5999 (427 S/C)
Posts: 19,111
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Not Ranked
Kevin
They are Bowmalloy bolts from years ago. Think they, Bowmalloy, went defunct in the mid-90's?
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07-22-2013, 05:25 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Near Chichester, Sussex by the sea......,
UK
Cobra Make, Engine: Crendon 427 S/C 428 FE+toploader
Posts: 668
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Not Ranked
- thanks! you can still get them, i discovered
...pardon my ignorance, but are they 3/8" ....or .....?
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07-28-2013, 10:48 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Manchester,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: AK1085 (302 Street), HTM111 (427 Comp), CSX2375R (289 Comp) and COB5999 (427 S/C)
Posts: 19,111
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Not Ranked
Kevin
Tell us more.
Think 1/4-20.
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