brake fittings....what size?

greenwater · #1 (**permalink**) 02-09-2002, 05:52 PM

I'm pulling out a Lockheed brake master cylinder from my car...well lets say that's what I'm trying to do! I have steel brake tubings that are terminated with some brass nuts that srew into the master ....now those are really tight and nothing metric or SAE seem to give a good grip on them...I've put a good shot of penetrating oil and will let it soak overnight...But are they any special size spanner for those?

Any good tricks to avoid the typical destroyed all rounded-off unusuable left over of a nut pityfull sight?

thank you.

wadesdad · #2 (**permalink**) 02-12-2002, 09:13 PM

If you're not reusing the master cylinder, try applying some heat, but don't blow up your car in the process.

If you are reusing it, you may need a "Line Wrench". It's an open ended wrench that goes 3/4 of the way around a fitting so you do not round off your line ends. I've only seen them on Matco or Snap-On trucks. There must be a retail store also.

Good luck.

Jack21 · #3 (**permalink**) 02-16-2002, 03:59 PM

Pay a visit to your local Sears & Roebuck tools department. Craftsman offers a good selection of line wrenches in the small sizes used on brake fittings. If you don't use a line wrench, you'll round off the corners and have to resort to a vice grip to get the nut off, and frequently destroy it in the process. Try a little heat, Liquid Wrench, and tap on it a little to break it free. These steel fittings tend to rust in place. Get both english and metric sizes for working on Fords. As stated above, be especially careful with that torch around fiberglass. It will ignite, and burn.

greenwater · #4 (**permalink**) 02-16-2002, 04:47 PM

In spite of the use of flare nut wrench, I managed slacking all except one that rounded off anyway! So it gave me occasion to practice at replacing/forming new line....not a total loss.

I've thought about using some anti-seize compound on the new threads but was concerned about possibly contaminig the brake fluid or even increasing the possibility of the nut self slackenning with time?? Anybody can talk about the use of anti seize compound on brake line nuts?

Jack21 · #5 (**permalink**) 02-16-2002, 06:51 PM

In the middle of a brake job as we speak. Same issue with bleeder screws, but they have to come loose more frequently, and not corrode in the meantime. Thinking of trying a low strength Loctite, rather than anti sieze. Same reason. Although it would work, I'm concerned about loosening up. Whatever is put on the threads won't contact the brake fluid. Think I'll pick some up. Let you know how it works out.

greenwater · #6 (**permalink**) 02-16-2002, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jack21
In the middle of a brake job as we speak. Same issue with bleeder screws, but they have to come loose more frequently, and not corrode in the meantime. Thinking of trying a low strength Loctite, rather than anti sieze. Same reason. Although it would work, I'm concerned about loosening up. Whatever is put on the threads won't contact the brake fluid. Think I'll pick some up. Let you know how it works out.

While searching on CC for infos. on brakes related I found one comment by David Kirkham,if memory serves me good, that they used Locktite blue grade on their AN fittings with great results...now that wasn't necessarely on brake system but still....