Shell Valley Body Install Problems

ACC427US · #1 (**permalink**) 06-23-2001, 06:28 PM

Put the body on today. At the wheels, The right side rear is 2" higher than the left. Both coil overs are set the same. Any idea why and what I can do about it?

The body sat on a body rack for maybe 4 years with some of it in the sun. COuld the rear and front nose settled some?

Anybody using a plywood shim under the body? I'm thinking of adding a 1 3/4" sheet of marine plywood under both the drivers side and passenger side to raise the body a little and maybe give it a little more strength.

SVMCOBRA · #2 (**permalink**) 06-23-2001, 07:46 PM

I have a shell valley and experinced the same problem. I simply just adjusted the coil over to raise it. I would not recomend raising the body up off the frame as it will expose the frame more than it allready is. I would also like to find out what other problems you have eperienced.

ACC427US · #3 (**permalink**) 06-23-2001, 08:00 PM

Feels like I've had all of the problems. I've got about 8" from top of shock to bottom of coil nut on rear. Any idea how much you have?

I'm putting in a 427SO so I' always trying to use ashoe horn for almost everything. Already cut part of the drivers side wheel well for the headers, now I'm gonna have to cut a piece out of the passenger footbox. I cut off the cross member do I could get the 427SO in.

SVMCOBRA · #4 (**permalink**) 06-23-2001, 08:14 PM

I am at work right now but can let you know tommorow. I don't know how far you are into you assembly process but I can relate to your problems. Seems like every time I go to install a part their is a problem. Is your body thin in alot of places ie: across the back of the car and the cowl area? Are all you cut outs allready done, if so I would like to know if the holes line up for the bumpers. One other problem I had with the body was the rear wheel radius was not the same on both sides in the back of the car, this was a major pain to correct.

ACC427US · #5 (**permalink**) 06-24-2001, 07:12 AM

My body seems like the unsupported ends sag'd sitting on the body stand for 4 years. Seems like the nose and rear drooped a lot. The nose and rear bumper holes are way lower than the frame foles but in general align side to side. I haven't really checked out the wheel well radius -- Too focused on the body being too low.

I've got the engine/tranny in the frame, trying to install body, then gauges and wiring.

I figure to order bumpers Monday and see if I can align it with them in it.

How far along are you?

SVMCOBRA · #6 (**permalink**) 06-24-2001, 02:59 PM

The holes for the bumpers line up side to side but the top bumper bolt lines up with the bottom mounting hole on the frame (both front and rear). As to how far along I am, I have all susp. mounted, motor in, radiator and hoses hooked up, body is on and aligned, gauges installed, headers and side pipes installed, lights installed, roll bar installed, gas tank installed, hood installed and trunk lid installed, steering column installed and clutch/brake pedal installed. I plan on pulling the body back off to install my transmission, run the brake lines and fuel lines. As to ordering you bumpers or any other stuff I went with Finishline, they we an absolute joy to deal with and cheaper on a lot of things. Plus if I had any problems(which I only had 1) it was resolved quickly (which is more than I can say about Shell Valley). You might want to call Shell Valley and request a new assembly manual as the new one is a whole lot better than the old one. Well enough rambling on, If you need any more help or info let me know.
Ray Hedden

ACC427US · #7 (**permalink**) 06-24-2001, 09:57 PM

Your body sounds exactly like what I'm having. I'll call Finishline tomorrow but I suspect I'll play it safe and buy it frm SVM. I hope to catch up to you soon.

Campy · #8 (**permalink**) 06-25-2001, 01:25 PM

Hello Gentleman,
I just finished my SVM Cobra about two months ago. I too had some minor problems, nothing to get excited about. I just chalked it up to the experience. As a side note, I visit many "build-up" sites and you'll be surprised how many builders have problems creep up. Check out this guys site, Cobralads , he's got a JBL Motors Kit (nice kit). He had me rolling reading about his escapades (read "screw-ups")

I read somewhere that SVM was going downhill until Rich Anderson purchased the Company. Since then, Rich has been weeding out some of the old stuff produced by the prior owner. That may account for the "sagging" bodies. I don't know for sure. My experience with SVM was pleasant. They were cooperative, always willing to help and give advice.

Anyway, I did have a similar problem wit the bumper supports not lining up. The fronts were right on, the rears were about 3/8" too high so I had to "oval out" the hole in the steel support. I did it with a sharp rat-tail file, it took a while but worked just fine. I chose to go that route rather than enlarging the holes in the body which would be hard to cover up.

Ray, how did your steering column turn out? With the dimensions given, my column comes about 3/16" away from the front brake master cylinder reservoir. (A little close for my taste). Another note, make sure your body is sufficiently rearward so that your wheels will make it through a complete arc and not rub the wheel-wells. I'm using the recommended size tires.

ACC427US · #9 (**permalink**) 06-25-2001, 08:13 PM

Campy,

What recommended tire size? Usually when I call, I get at least suggestions if not answers. It just seems like I bought an engineering project" not a kit but then this is my first -- and last kit.

Campy · #10 (**permalink**) 06-25-2001, 09:36 PM

The tire size of choice is 235/60 15 (front) and 295/50 15 (rear).
I can't speak for SVM but I can only suspect that the reason they say "suggested" is because tire size, just as engine size, is not cut in stone. I have seen guys use 17" low profile (read expensive) tires. Truthfully, the tire size I used looks good and lends itself well to the era in which the car originates. I'm using Dunlop GT Qualifiers. Personally I think they look better than low profile.
Sorry to hear you're having a hard time. Building a kit should be a fun project and I know it's a bummer when things don't work out. I'm not patronizing you. I know from experience in building kit airplanes. We used to sometimes subcatagorize kits as "builders kits" and some as "straight kits". The builders variety required more effort and time. I guess in some ways, the SVM leans in that direction based on the required welding and fabrication of some components.
My only advice is to be patient and take every step with careful planning. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to email at my home and I will help you out the best I can.
Campy

pcampjax@telocity.com

ACC427US · #11 (**permalink**) 06-25-2001, 10:03 PM

Thanks for the kind words. I've never built a kit airplane and haven't done serious work on a car in 20 years. Its hard jumping back in after so many years (i.e older than sin!)

Sometimes its hard to see the forest for the trees. But we will prevail and get it on the road, this summer!

I'm using the same size tires, except as Goodyear. I think (hope?) the drooping is fixable by adding the bumper arms. I've tweaked the coil overs as much as I dare. I now have about 1/2" to 3/4" travel on the springs.

SVMCOBRA · #12 (**permalink**) 06-26-2001, 12:17 AM

Guys I don't want you to get the wrong idea that I think Shell Valley is not a good kit. I am only speaking of the problems I have had. Campy you my be right about them weeding out some of the bad stuff. As far as mounting the body I centered it in the front wheel wells since I new I was going to have to do work on the rear ones. Thats the nice thing about fiberglass, it can be re-worked fairly easy.

Campy you are right about the type of kit this is to assemble. I never welded anything in my life. Bought a mig welder and with a little practice and a grinder

whala I'm a welder. No complaints about the location of the steering column although I am going to fabricate me a different under hood mounting bracket , after all I can weld now

I do have one question where did you guys mount you fuel pump?

With the tank being so close to the rear and the 4 bar link.
Well you guys take care and I'll keep you posted on my progress or lack of

Ray

ACC427US · #13 (**permalink**) 06-26-2001, 06:58 AM

SVMCOBRA,

I haven't mounted my fuel pump yet but intend to mount it on the inside of the frame under where I sit. I've got a picture somewhere of someone else doing that. I'm no welder or even a fiberglass man. That artistic stuff is not at all my game. I'm gonna have to find a fiberglass man and welder when it comes to that part.

Campy · #14 (**permalink**) 06-26-2001, 08:01 AM

I was going to mount the fuel pump (Holley 8011) in the same location you suggest, however, I noticed that it projects way too low. I found the best place is on the inside of the frame, on the drivers side and in the area where the frame starts to come up over the axle. Basically, just under the foward roll bar mounting brace. (The one you have to weld on

) A note on this in a minute.

With the fuel pump in the above mentioned location, it's not exactly below the level of the tank, but I can tell you that mine works just fine with no problems "pulling" fuel. Pick yourself up three 90 degree 1/2"pipe to 3/8" flare fittings. One on the tank outlet and the other two on the pump with one pointing upwards and the other downward. This arrangement works well when bending and routing the aluminum fuel line. Don't forget to use a nice size filter between the tank and fuel pump. I went to Discount Auto and looked at the various filters and chose one with a hose slip over nipple on each side. Like I mentioned one of 90 fittings come from the tank, I attached a short 6" piece of the aluminum tube and from that a short piece of neoprene fuel line from it to the filter. Then another piece of neoprene tube from the filter to a corresponding short piece of aluminum tube from the pump. The reason for this set-up is that neoprene bends well around the axle and it absorbs vibration which means less chance of a leak.

You can engineer this anyway you want

A note on the roll bar mounting bracket. Unless you have at least a 100 - 120 amp welder, the 1/4" steel is tough to weld. I blew the circuit breaker twice. This so happened to occur just when my wife was watching her favorite televison show. Yes, you guessed it, we were on the same circuit

One way you can get a good weld without using a higher amp machine is to heat the whole assembly up as hot as you can with a propane torch. Then proceed to weld. You have to get it hot. This is only alternative I know of.
Good luck

ACC427US · #15 (**permalink**) 06-26-2001, 07:06 PM

Campy

After reading your notes about blowing the breaker, You must have a very understanding wife. I figured you'd have enough heat from your wife to weld without a normal welder.

Campy · #16 (**permalink**) 06-26-2001, 09:25 PM

Welder, who needs a welder?

The look I got was enough to melt through freakin' Superman

I will never be able to live down that moment:

ACC427US · #17 (**permalink**) 06-30-2001, 06:54 PM

On Friday, talked with Shell Valley about the drooping nose and tail problem. Duh!!! They said the body rests on the trunk piece and I've been doing it without the trunck piece.

They said they have a bracket to help the drooping nose part and will ship it Monday (UPS already left).

I've tightened the rear shocks as much as I dare, leaving a 1/2 -1" bounce potential. Hope its not too tight. I cut the holes for the fuel sending unit and filler hose.

Gotta figure out what to use as the fuel shutoff, etc...

cobraken · #18 (**permalink**) 06-30-2001, 07:59 PM

i just read all of your interesting problems with your shell valley buildups! i've been busy driving my shell valley 67 427 roadster and not had much time! i, too had several "fun" problems with my shell valley kit! i bought the roller kit with the body installed and the suspension hung on and still it was "an interesting experience" to say the least! i thought it was strange to see a clean freshly painted shortened rear axle assembly only to find rusty trashed inside parts to same! the bearings were trash, the seals were rotten, the gears rusty, wheel cylinders junk, axle vent tube plugged...in other words the entire rear axle had to be rebuilt! new everything! and fun to find parts for since there's no axle id tag so you don't know what you've got! lucky i got a good parts guy at my local napa store! and that wiring harness was looking good until i was aways into the wiring and found wires with colors that didn't match the schematic! good thing i have test equipment and a battery charger. took longer than i expected to "just follow the color codes, you can't go wrong" WRONG!! i found out the only way to get some of the wiring sorted out was to call shell valley and talk to "kovar"! that guy truly has all the answers! i would sat i had plenty of "little problems" along the way of my buildup! parts not fitting and things going wrong (many of them were my fault)! was it worth it? YOU BET!!! that car is more fun than any of my hot rods in the past...67 mustang gt390, 67 chevelle 427, 63 chevy impala ss 409, etc., etc. i can go fast when i want and cruise slow and be envied when i want! i have been driving my cobra since july 2000, weather permitting, and even though its not real comfortable, has no air cond., no power anything(except engine), it's the coolest, classiest, and damn near the fastest car in my area! so don't lose sight of what you're working for "a cobra" and press onward! the goal is attainable and worth every drop of sweat and blood (yeah i cut the crap out of myself a couple of times) and a few cuss words!! you'll be VERY glad you did! oh, yeah i just thought i'd add i kicked a new corvette's backside the other day! showed him the proper viewing of "A COBRA"!

ACC427US · #19 (**permalink**) 07-07-2001, 08:04 PM

Finnally got the engine in and shortened the clutch fork. After talking with Dana, the tail section rests on the trunk piece (duh!!). I put it all in and now the back part of the passenger compartment is off the frame on one side by 3/4" other side by 7/8". The front i now really too low.

Any of you Shell Valley guys using marine plywood or sheetmetal between fiberglass and frame? Seems it would make it a safer, quiet down the road noise and allow me to align the body to the frame.

What did the rest of you SVM guys do?

cobraken · #20 (**permalink**) 07-07-2001, 08:39 PM

sorry, can't help at all there. bought my body installed on the frame. you try calling kovar at shell valley? he's the one to ask! dana's a salesman and can pretty much only pass on info (in my experience). ASK KOVAR!