Change of oil and found metallic spring etc inside - need your advise.

[blykins]

Best plan of action in scenarios like this (especially when "previous owners" are involved) is to forward all pictures and information to the engine builder before anyone else. Eric's a good guy and a good engine builder. I would discuss it with him further as he knows what components were used and how the engine was assembled.

[Wbulk]

Andronikos, good pictures and video. It would appear you have some engine design parts compatabiliy and possible clearance issues. David is right, you need to contact the engine builder. With these engines they can vary greatly depending on who built them. There is a great number of performance parts that if selected correctly and with clearances checked work great. But if wrong parts are selected, and are not compatable bad things happen. Just buying performance parts and bolting them together does not make a reliable performance engine.

The studs that were broken are called rocker arm studs. That is the pivot point between the push rod and the valve stem and is where the valve lifter pre-load is adjusted.

Since you have two rocker studs that broke this is not a fluke issue with a defective part that broke. This may be beyond your capabilities at this point. Reading books about stock engines will give you the basic concepts but with performance parts the engineering is changed and the clearances are critical.

Just to get an idea of any clearance issues I would put a wrench on the crankshaft bolt and turn the engine over very slowly while watching one of the rocker arms to see how close it comes to the valve retainer. The retainer is the round disc that is on the top of the valve spring. Also look at the valve retainers on the ones with the broken studs. Can you see any contact points ? I wouldn't go any further until you contact the engine builder and see where that goes. Then if that doesn't work out you might take the below steps.

It just might be possible someone tightened the valves all the way down thinking they were like stock valves, bottoming them in the lifter bores and causing the studs to break. You can check this by cheking the adjustment on one of the other rockers.

You can do this by turning the engine over in the direction of travel with a wrench slowly and watching one exhaust valve. With the exhaust valve down turn the engine over until it's push rod and rocker starts to move up. This puts the intake on the base circle of the cam. Then on the same cylinder intake valve slowly loosen the adjusting nut until the push rod just has "any" up and down play in it. You may tell by trying to spin the push rod with you fingers. When you get to the exact point it will free up and spin freely with you fingers. I would go real slow maybe turning a 1/8 of a turn and then check it. Keep doing that until you have play. It should be about 1/2 a turn until you have play. Those rockers most likely have locks with an allen screw that you have to loosen to turn the adjusting nut. If you have a full turn or more until it loosens you have a problem.

If by some off chance someone tightened these all the way down that could explain what happened. My opinion!

Wayne

[andronikos916]

Hello guys. Thank you all for the replies and support. I will not order any parts until I contact the PE guys and get the correct parts with correct clearances etc.
About warranty the car has less than 900miles and the engine was build Dec 2009 (if I am not mistaken - I can double check that).

I am not sure if it is under warranty but I think this is another matter that I have to personally discuss with Eric.

Also I am not feeling confident to repair all that. I better ask for a professional mechanic to do the assembly once I figure all out etc.

I have problems since day 1 - I do not know what else to say. I can only wish for the best.

Andronikos,

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by andronikos916

Hello guys. Thank you all for the replies and support. I will not order any parts until I contact the PE guys and get the correct parts with correct clearances etc.
About warranty the car has less than 900miles and the engine was build Dec 2009 (if I am not mistaken - I can double check that).

I am not sure if it is under warranty but I think this is another matter that I have to personally discuss with Eric.

Also I am not feeling confident to repair all that. I better ask for a professional mechanic to do the assembly once I figure all out etc.

I have problems since day 1 - I do not know what else to say. I can only wish for the best.

Andronikos,

Admitting your not confident in trying to do the repairs is a good thing,one must know when it is time to "step back" and let someone with more expirence handle the job....
If there is a mechanic that you trust in your area, it wouldn't hurt to let him check out things, I wouldn't let him do any repairs,only check out the engine,maybe a trained set of eyes could help identify the problem.....it is definetly in the valve train though..........
Since you've had problems from "day one", a qualified mechanic you trust looking it over would be a good thing right now......
Best of luck.
David

[Wbulk]

Andronikos, did you read this?
Performance Engineering

[andronikos916]

Now I have. Thank you for sharing that info / story.
But I want to think positive. I am sure that they are many other customers that had great experience with Eric and PE.

Even now - that my car is sitting in the garage I want to think that it was a possible mistake that will be soon belong to past.

Thank you - Andronikos,

[CBattaglia]

Originally Posted by andronikos916

Now I have. Thank you for sharing that info / story.
But I want to think positive. I am sure that they are many other customers that had great experience with Eric and PE.

Even now - that my car is sitting in the garage I want to think that it was a possible mistake that will be soon belong to past.

Thank you - Andronikos,

If you want peace of mind, go somewhere other than PE to fix your car. Trust me on this one. PM me if you want, I dont want to discuss any matter other than my own on this forum. Do some homework.

[Curt C.]

Blykins - pm sent.

[andronikos916]

Hello again,

I am about to take the intake out so I can see better what is the problem. I will have a mechanic also coming later here to inspect together with me what is the problem and what parts I need to order etc...

I will also check if the adjustment on the other rockers in case they are also over tightened.

Of course I will take pics + video.

I found a cool video (for later use of How to Properly Adjust Valves on Roller Rocker Arms). I think this will be useful when time comes. He seems he is doing everything right on that video. Of course I will make sure I get correct parts & clearances.

YouTube - ‪How to Properly Adjust Valves on Roller Rocker Arms‬‏

Talk later - Andronikos,

[Wbulk]

That's an interesting video. I have never seen that whistle tool. The adjustment part I have not seen used before. They are finding top dead center on the compression stroke and the adjusting both valves at the same time. The spinning of the push rod and lifting part is right on. The only thing I would add is while you are doing that and tightening the rocker stud be sure not to push down on the rocker with the wrench. Pushing down can make you think you have the play out of it when you don't. The other method is the exhaust opening, intake closing method which I think it's easier. You just watch the valves and don't have to do that extra turning. You can find the detailed instructions on comp cams website.

Wayne

[andronikos916]

Hi guys. Here is a video of trying to take the intake manifold out. I am not able - something is holding it. Could you please watch it and tell me what I am missing and I can not take it out?

YouTube - ‪intake_outsm.MOV‬‏

Best - Andronikos,

[Curt C.]

First, that is the distributor (device with wires going to each cylinder), not alternator. The manifold with be held to the block with RTV silicone at the front and back. Gently pry it off or use a small knife to cut it and break the seal. You may have to remove the distributor to get the intake out too.

[blykins]

Pull the distributor out. It's not keeping you from removing the intake, but it will help de-clutter the area.

Next, just grab the intake with both hands and pull it up. It's probably held down by some RTV in the back.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

It's probably held down by some RTV in the back

+1, with the front of the intake as loose as it is, the rear is the only thing holding it in place........once you remove the distributor, you should have more room to pry up on the front, breaking the seal on the rear.......sometimes the RTV holds more than one would think........

David

[madmaxx]

Use a razor blade to cut the rtv seal, dont mar the sealing surface.

[andronikos916]

Yes that RTV silicone was super strong! I used a very sharp and thin blade and cut it. Then was easy. Had to remove the distributor out also.

Ok here are the pics. I will upload entire video tomorrow but I think the pics showing the damage:













Best - Andronikos,

[Jac Mac]

Originally Posted by andronikos916

Yes that RTV silicone was super strong! I used a very sharp and thin blade and cut it. Then was easy. Had to remove the distributor out also.

Ok here are the pics. I will upload entire video tomorrow but I think the pics showing the damage:













Best - Andronikos,

Not sure that anyone has picked this yet, but it would appear that this whole problem has started from using the Ford Roller Cam lifter components in what is a non roller cam block, you should use roller lifters with a link bar setup similar to normal mechanical roller lifters in the type of cyl block used here, the whole valve train assy needs to be re-evaluated for this motor, includeing any valve piston contact issues along with what appears to be retainer/rocker contact

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Not sure that anyone has picked this yet, but it would appear that this whole problem has started from using the Ford Roller Cam lifter components in what is a non roller cam block, you should use roller lifters with a link bar setup similar to normal mechanical roller lifters in the type of cyl block used here, the whole valve train assy needs to be re-evaluated for this motor, includeing any valve piston contact issues along with what appears to be retainer/rocker contact
__________________

Good point, I do see a number of other little things that should/should not be in this type of performance stroker motor.....definetly a major problem with the valve train geometry, and unless than is rectified, the same thing will continue to happen with this engine.....
David

[Curt C.]

That is the cylinder where the rocker stud broke right? Looks like the rocker stud broke allowing the pushrod to jump out along with the lifter. Ask the engine builder to comment on the right studs, lifters, pushrod usage, etc to confirm that the valve train geometry is correct. Either the stud was defective or the geometry not correct resulting in the stud failing. As said earlier, the poly locks looked funny but maybe that is not the issue. Keep the exposed engine galley very clean. You dont want any dirt, dust etc to get in there. Use a clean towl or plastic bag to keep it covered while not working on it.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

With the kind of damage you have, I would not trust the engine, you don't know what little parts/pieces went were and could have damaged other things, I would pull the motor and do a complete teardown and clean up everything........if I remember correctly, you said you drove the car like this for some miles?? There is a good chance that some of those broken pieces got "slung" around the internal moving parts and easlily could have damaged the crank/rods/camshaft....I just wouldn't trust it,till I knew for sure that there was no other damage internally...
On the opposite side, there is a push rod out of the lifter, did the rocker stud break on that one also??
2 things I noticed, the intake gaskets do not look like the correct ones for the cylinder heads, they'll work, but they cover part of the intake ports, the other thing is the push rods with pressed-in balls on the ends..I quit using that type years ago after pulling a motor with a few thousand miles on it and finding 3 of the balls missing, one was in the oil pan, the other 2 were ground up in the engine......I only use one-piece push rods...

Still wondering what type of cylinder heads are on the car, can't tell from the pictures...

David