408W or 427W

[CowtownCobra]

Both configurations are overkill for these cars. Get the one that's cheaper to buy, maintain and repair. I have a version of the Keith Craft 408 (not sure any 2 are exactly alike) and have not had any problem in 7 years 14k+ miles. Did a 260 mile cruise yesterday. Motor was flawless. Brakes need some work.....

[Dana E.]

Go with the AFR head if your going the 427w route, in some cases the trick flow head, blykins knows best

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I'm going with the Brodix KC 210 heads for a couple of reasons: the exhaust port location is close to the location of the Dart Pro 1 heads that were on the 393 so the exhaust should bolt up without work and the Brodix heads outflow the AFR's...at least according to the published flow charts for both heads. I'll probably have my machinist check them on his flowbench.

We have two of Keith Crafts 408W in our club. They make 530 plus hp and 540 plus tq. Coach Mike has several thousands of miles on his, three years of driving year round. No problems. Very street-able motors, meaning they idle correctly, do not over heat, no oil leaks, no problems. Just drop in and drive.
I picked up the last motor a couple of weeks ago. 408W 531 hp & 540 Tq, cost $8375. If you will add up the cost of the parts your going to buy and the machine work, you will spend close to $8000. Keith uses parts that he has proven will work

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I don't doubt Keith Craft builds a nice motor, but I prefer, and I'm more than capable, of building my own. It's my therapy. The one and only "crate motor" I bought in my life didn't make it 175 miles. My machinist friends are great. They know I have the tools to check the work as accurately as they can....and I will check.

Thanks to some serious shopping and some good deals, I can build an all new Dart block 427, with a forged Scat rotating assembly, using Keith Crafts' Brodix 210 heads and his hydraulic roller cam for about the same price as a factory block 408.

As Brent suggested, going bigger than 427" would not really cost much more for the engine parts, and you could make more power. In my case, I already had the new manifold and carburetor from the 393, I didn't want to shell out the dough to have new headers made and I don't have enough room under the hood to use a taller intake manifold. If I was starting from square one, building a 460+ inch motor would be very tempting. All in all if this motor can hit close to the advertised power numbers, not come apart on the dyno, and last more than 175 miles, I'll be happy.

[RET_COP]

It should be a nice build. Keep us posted.
I found that my KC 195 heads raised my exhaust at the 4 pipe flange about 1/8". A 120 emery spool and a electric drill worked perfect to contour the body. Also the head valve cover rails were a little higher. The oil filler tube had to be cut 1/4 for cap clearance, again 5 minute job with a cutting wheel. I widened my Edelbrock RPM intake coolant passages to better match the head. The Aluminum heads have a shorter passage than the World Windsor Sr. which was taller. There is a thin tab in the intake coolant passage. It looks like it was meant for trimming. A quick port match showed that taking some [not all] of this tab away made for better coolant flow. Again very quickly done with a burr tool. I ran the car yesterday and all went well. I definitely felt the power difference through the whole RPM range. Check your Rocker pushrod geometry! I used the Mid Lift method and it worked great. PM me on this if you want.
Good Luck.
Lou

[blykins]

If you don't have the parts, don't let the heads and intake stop you from adding cubes. Those 210 heads will work just fine on a larger engine and you can use the shorter intake. Torque is your friend in a street car...