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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2012, 02:56 PM
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PLD

My engine has Comp Cams lifters-are these lousy? What are the best?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2012, 05:06 PM
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How much do u want to spend?

1. Jessel
2. Isky red zone ez, or crower EnduraMax(no needle bearings)
The EnduraMax is a new lifter for Crower and is said to be about 15 to 20 percent stronger then their severe duty lifter (which is a good lifter).

I like the idea of of no needle bearings to scatter all over the engine if a lifter fails.

I think the comps endure X lifters are junk,however; i have heard good things about the Comp Elite Race Lifter.

Hope this helps some.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2012, 05:34 PM
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Ford racing is better than others than. I would be looking more at valve spring pressures more than cam profile. Obviously cam profiles dictate spring pressures. I would also recommend hydraulic lifters but am just another swinging dick so talk with Brent or KC. For the correct answer.



Quote:
Originally Posted by GBowman View Post
MM

The only thing I took off were valvecovers and intake/distributor, prior to doing so I spoke to Ford to discuss with them. The damage I listed is only what I was able to see, who knows what else happened once that steel debris started making its way around
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:23 PM
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Good luck! Looks like you have a cadre of experts consulting with you.

Russell
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2012, 09:25 AM
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I actually like running solid rollers on the street. But the lobes must be carefully thought about, as well as spring pressures, rocker arm ratios, lifters, etc.

The Comp Xtreme Energy lobes work really well on the street and make really nice power to boot. I like the Crower HIPPO lifters or the Isky Red-Zone lifters and the spring pressures must be matched to the rpm range and intensity of the lobe. My solid roller stuff generally starts out at 225 seat and 525-530 lb open and goes up from there.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2012, 03:00 PM
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Gary, Follow Brents advice and u should be in good hands.

Just for thought. I am now running 228 seat 630 Open (Pack 1550 series endurance springs, Ferra 5/16 stem 2.100 121grams, crower stainless steel shaft rockers with oilers and crower severe duty hippo lifters.

Spring pressure is not the killer of a GOOD lifter (thats old school thought). Yes it does wear on the lifter, but its not the top of the list of concerns. Too little is pressure is much worse. Lack of lubrication, lifter bounce, mismatching parts to application are you valve train killers. I have a friend on his third year with Isky red zones in a big block chevy street strip engine with around 800 lift with a pretty agressive ramps and has not rebuilt the lifters (not saying to do it, just saying it can be done). And remember a big block chevy stainless valves (2.300)weigh a lot more that yours. His spring pressure is way up there.

Joe Sherman (Joe Sherman racing) has been Building solid rollers street/strip engines for customers for many years and has very few problems.

Final word do not let others influnance your decision not to use a solid roller. Just remember to spend the money upfront with good quility MATCHED Parts, and keep up with the maintenance.

Mark

Last edited by PLDRIVE; 07-19-2012 at 03:08 PM.. Reason: spelling
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Old 07-19-2012, 03:06 PM
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My solid roller stuff generally starts out at 225 seat and 525-530 lb open and goes up from there.
And what lift range do they accommodate Brent? I know it's somewhat dependent on the aggressiveness of the profiles-just ballpark.
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Old 07-19-2012, 05:10 PM
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Chas, those lobes usually hit around .650-.660 lift on a 1.7 RR. On the FE stuff, it's usually a little more, around .670-.680. Not spring eaters, but enough to take advantage of good head flow.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2012, 05:59 PM
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Thanks Brent-still think 'Chas' would be a good name...
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:00 PM
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It would have to be Chastina....
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:29 PM
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... or Chastity.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:40 PM
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It's OK with me but check with Mamma first.
Little girls are the best.
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:47 PM
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Soooooooo...sent the motor back to FR a couple weeks ago, got an email this past Monday that they started taking it apart. I have emailed for updates but get nothing in return, pretty frustrating I am giving them the benefit of the doubt for now. I am missing out on some prime driving time thats for sure.
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:56 AM
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Update-my engine cannot be rebuilt, FR is sending a new one. Aluminum block hydro roller set up. Almost identical to the Iron block version (535HP) on their website. I hope I dont miss the few extra ponies but this may be a better street motor.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2012, 10:59 AM
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What did FR find that made them scrap this block? Was there metal transfer or web cracks?
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:55 AM
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My experience with them is that they make things right, but don't feel compelled to share everything they found.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2012, 02:54 PM
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If the upgrade to an aluminum block was at no cost to you, that is a pretty sweet deal, assuming all other parts are comparable.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2012, 03:15 PM
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I would love to know their diagnosis....never seen an engine that couldn't be rebuilt because of a lifter failure...
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2012, 12:06 PM
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There is no trade up for the Alum block as my original motor was Alum. I will inquire as to exactly what went wrong but they were not forethcoming as to what it was-at least they didn't offer the info voluntarily.

Consenus is that the valve spring went limp and the cam acted like a hammer on the lifter-I will see what they say.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:27 AM
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Here are the Cam specs we are going with:

294 300 @ .006

@.006 Int opens 41 BTDC closes 73 ABDC
Ex opens 84 BBDC closes 36 ATDC

106 intake centerline

Duration at .050 int. 242 ex. 248

Lobe lift int. .360 ex. .375

Lobe separation 110

Short block is being assembled now-hopefully done in time for some nice weather.
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