463 IR Windsor

[vector1]

Don't want to intrude on your oil plans, on my dry sump after break in I have finally settled on a Mobil 1 0w40 oil, rated with european standards and I think it was recommended for some of the current dry sump production cars. Numbers looked good and I haven't noticed any loss of oil pressure compared to my previous brands & weight at temperature. Auto parts stores charge a pretty penny but you can pick it up at walmart for $23 a jug.

[PLDRIVE]

Bob I agree with Brent, but i would add that it does reduce friction (dissimilar metals) and it gives u an opportunity to verify and correct bore alignment. I went with a .903 vs .875 lifter so adding bushings was not a problem.
The SHP or sportsman block does not have rear oil feed, so oil travels from the front to back, therefore; the rear lifters are fed first. By tapping in from the rear and plumbing to the front a more balanced stream of oil is provided to the forward lifters. I am sure Jim could add to this.

MP

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by blykins

We do the bronze bushings sometimes when the lifters are really tall. Under high lift with high spring pressure, the lifters will want to "wiggle". One, it's easier to R&R a bronze bushing. Once cast iron is oblonged, then the only choice is to....well....put a bronze bushing in it. Another reason is that we can leave the bushing sticking up out of the lifter bore some, so that gives added stability at full lift.

Originally Posted by PLDRIVE

Bob I agree with Brent, but i would add that it does reduce friction (dissimilar metals) and it gives u an opportunity to verify and correct bore alignment. I went with a .903 vs .875 lifter so adding bushings was not a problem.
The SHP or sportsman block does not have rear oil feed, so oil travels from the front to back, therefore; the rear lifters are feed first. By tapping in from the rear and plumbing to the front a more balanced stream of oil is provided to the forward lifters. I am sure Jim could add to this.

MP

Very interesting. Next time I do a major overhaul, maybe I'll do that. I don't have any lifter problems, and I don't seem to have any problems with oiling. But I don't really want to wait until I do have a problem. That looks like a simple enough mod to do in the garage.

I'm still considering dropping solid roller lifters on my hydraulic roller cam. So maybe I'll have the machine shop put in some bronze bushings.

Thanx for sharing that with me/us.

[blykins]

You don't need it Bob, and it's a lot of expense to do it correctly. You can't just drill the hole and press a bushing in, it needs to be done with the block and a BHJ lifter fixture for it to be done right. Most hydraulic roller cams do not have the lift nor do they require the spring pressure to need anything near this kind of prevention, and you won't see any horsepower increases because of the bushings.

As for a solid lifter on a hydraulic roller, be aware of what's necessary here....you still need to run lash, and you will need to run a very tight cold lash, because hot lash needs to be in the .006-.010" range. Even then you still have lash, which coupled with higher valve spring pressures is what kills a solid roller lifter over time. There are many short travel hydraulic roller lifters out there from Comp or Morel, where you can adjust them and run high spring pressures and get more potential rpm out of your combo.

[PLDRIVE]

Originally Posted by vector1

Don't want to intrude on your oil plans, on my dry sump after break in I have finally settled on a Mobil 1 0w40 oil, rated with european standards and I think it was recommended for some of the current dry sump production cars. Numbers looked good and I haven't noticed any loss of oil pressure compared to my previous brands & weight at temperature. Auto parts stores charge a pretty penny but you can pick it up at walmart for $23 a jug.

They do have the best price on Mobil 1.