Best way to proceed with improving up 427 Windsor street setup

[SPF1061]

Originally Posted by blykins

X2....

Most performance applications in general respond very well to a quick timing curve. I would set the total timing to be all in by about 2600-2800.

I have a question about the MSD mechanical advance adjustments. I have been running the heavy silver springs in my 427R and am going to switch to the blue springs to see how the engine likes it. No one has mentioned the bushings. I have the black bushings in mine. Is it ok to leave those with the blue springs or is it best to use a different bushing. If I understand correctly the bushing sets the amount of advance the spring weights add, so in effect, if I set my timing all in (32/34 degrees) the bushings set the amount of initial advance. Black bushing would be 14/16 degree initial timing with 32/34 all in. Different bushings would give me less initial timing for the same all in timing. Thoughts?

[blykins]

Look at MSD's charts. You may have to manipulate both bushing and springs.

[RET_COP]

Nice work. You definitely don't want lean backfire but a little snap, crackle, pop is good. I like to say, A little lean is real mean.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by RET_COP

Nice work. You definitely don't want lean backfire but a little snap, crackle, pop is good. I like to say, A little lean is real mean.

We are getting there slowly. If I learn anything from these cars it will be that you have to basically take it and make it into what you want it to be. I'm very pleased to know the motor is solid and runs like a banshee on the VERY top end I used to have big hp hayabusa's and I enjoy the speed but I feel like I have a lot less control of one of these cars than a bike. I want to up the rate of acceleration and reduce the overall speed but I don't want to be running out of steam at 5500.....you know just like everyone else I want my cake and the ice cream to go with it!

[blykins]

Going from 3.31 to 4.10 would make it feel like a different car. Prob wouldn't need new cam.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by blykins

Going from 3.31 to 4.10 would make it feel like a different car. Prob wouldn't need new cam.

Do you sell a trailer hitch for the fuel wagon I would lug around the 4.10's would atleast be able to pull it. With a gearing change like this are you leaving the TKO-600 .82 alone or are you changing something there as well.

[blykins]

Leave it alone....it won't tach as high as what you think.

[RET_COP]

I wanted everything also, my custom cam does just that, maybe not perfect for one particular thing, but , autocross, drag racing, and good street manners with a great sound. I'd say i got it all. Your right, you taylor the car to you exact liking, can vett guy do that without voiding the warranty

[RET_COP]

The Black is 18* the blue is 21*. Bushings give your your spread between the initial and Total timing. Leave the Black in there unless you need less initial. The total timing is what your engine runs best at weather or not you change the curve.

[Ace23]

Well that whole high rpm euphoria lasted a whole 24 hours. Custom cam on the way Going to lower the peak power down to about 6000 so I can still get my feel for the higher rpms. My expectation is that the low end and midrange is going to improve. I was told my cam had 100 degrees of overlap so out with the old and in with the new. I'm also still young enough to get Christmas presents from the parents so a few polished components should show up around the holiday season to finish out the car.

[Pman1961]

ACE23...have we not talked about my hourly rate? Getting my fingers dirty costs extra. Looks like we have some more fun ahead with polished intake, water pump, cam, bell housing, AN fittings, etc.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by Pman1961

ACE23...have we not talked about my hourly rate? Getting my fingers dirty costs extra. Looks like we have some more fun ahead with polished intake, water pump, cam, bell housing, AN fittings, etc.

Don't get in such a hurry I'm drawing up plans on how to start a pyramid scheme to fund this stuff you've gotten me into

[tuska]

so have you put on dyno to check yet? were all missing hp still there just hiding in bad tune/sad parts?

[madmaxx]

It is possible to change the cam with engine in the car. You have to remove the radiator fans. You disconnect motor mounts and jack engine up and swing engine to driver side to clear the front cross bar and the cam comes out in the fan opening.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

It is possible to change the cam with engine in the car. You have to remove the radiator fans. You disconnect motor mounts and jack engine up and swing engine to driver side to clear the front cross bar and the cam comes out in the fan opening.

Interesting. I will see what Pman wants to do since it is his garage. I know he has pulled his motor a few times changing engine combos. I'm pretty excited about the new cam from Brent. He went with a 108LSA and brought the peak power down to 6000rpm from 6600rpm. Should be a good compromise to what I have now.

[madmaxx]

You have to weigh the risk. Working over the fenders or lifitning. Just make sure you protect your paint. If you pull I would strongly suggest you rear main seal is perfect and not leaking as this would be the time to replace. I assume you can just lay the headers to the side, getting the drivers side header out is a little tricky. If someone has done it before than they will know the path of least resistance.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

You have to way the risk. Working over the fenders or lifitning. Just make sure you protect your paint. If you pull I would strongly suggest you rear main seal is perfect and not leaking as this would be the time to replace. I assume you can just lay the headers to the side, getting the drivers out is a little tricky. If someone has done it before than they will know the path of least resistance.

Perry prefers to pull the transmission out through the interior so you can just lift the motor straight out. The main seal and a few other things are definelty on the table due to the motor being out. The car is 12 years old so I will probably look at replacing some of the hoses as well.

[Pman1961]

Cam change is not the only modifications or improvements Ace23 has planned for the car. Polished Intake, polished water pump, quick-time bell housing, rear main seal, change AN fittings to a clear or black finish, etc. Yes, I would assume taking out some components such as the radiator and lifting the motor the cam swap is a possibility, However, by removing or disconnecting a few more items we can lift the motor out, put on a stand and swap parts without breaking our backs. Setting valves, degreeing the cam and checking bellhousing alignment all will be easier as well. Most of all Ace23 can finish detailing the engine compartment! Wax on wax off.....

[madmaxx]

I agree pulling the motor and working on a stand is much easier once the engine is out. With all the work you guys are doing I agree, just a cam change, do it in the car. I have had more than my share of polished engines. Beautiful when new but can be a real PIA to keep shining once moisture get on it, especially items like water pump. I recommend Commetic gaskets which are metal core. That way you don't have to worry about squeeze out when installing and use loctite on the water pump backing plate bolts as you can't tighten after installed. The water pump design is so pathetic with the variety of bolts and backing plates. I also had my timing cover polished and I would get the water pump backing plate chromed. Make sure you get the right intake gaskets also if you need a list a parts let me know.

[ralc]

had a similar problem. Nelson Specialties in Mooresville, NC did the distributor and back on the same dyno, it picked up 46 HP He is amazing. Turns out the advance curve was way off and the gear was grinding into the block