Overheating or bad gauge? - Page 3

Rwillia4 · #1 (**permalink**) 10-02-2010, 08:54 PM

drilling holes would be similar to installing the by-pass (read: install the by-pass).

Where is the sensor located? I assume it is on the intake just before the t-stat. Is it adapter installed "deep" enough in the hole to not allow any small bubbles to collect right at the sensor? Does the adapter have a flat bottom? this would be to minimize any bubbles collecting at the sensor?

Turning on the heater would reduce the temp spike quicker only if the t-stat is working correctly. So I don't think that is the problem.

The fact that it spikes quickly then takes time to reduce means to me there is poor flow around the temp sensor or the sensor is not in the water flow, maybe a bubble.

Some one wrote about a lose impeller on the water pump, that is something to keep in mind, we have seen that before on new and old water pumps and has similar symtoms.

Voyager · #2 (**permalink**) 10-04-2010, 11:14 AM

Not freaken fixed at all. My goal for next weekend is:

Pull the current thermostat, test it in a pot of water, drill a hole in it and put it back in. Also picked up a balanced thermostat as a backup.

Will also install a bypass hose. Any idea what size hose fitting I will need to screw into the Edelbrock 351W based water pump? Trying to make only 1 run to the store.

The sensor is on a short extension on the intake. I like the idea that it may be getting a steam pocket built up under the tip. But we had temp fluctuations before the dealer installed the extension. But I do think I will take the extension out anyway.

Bob

madmaxx · #3 (**permalink**) 10-04-2010, 11:41 AM

You are sure the water pump is the correct rotation? bleed the coolant system via the temp sending unit, back out a couple threads until coolant comes out, retighten. It really pays off when filling. Loosen sending unit and fill system with coolant

Voyager · #4 (**permalink**) 10-04-2010, 12:10 PM

We purged air/coolant from the senor on the intake multiple times. The dealer also used a coolant vacuum pump device.

Have not verified the water pump direction. The crate engine came preassembled by Keith Craft’s team in Arkansas.

Voyager · #5 (**permalink**) 10-18-2010, 04:26 PM

Thanks to the counsel of this forum, I believe that I have fixed my overheating issue.

Replaced the thermostat with a Mr. Gasket 180 Balanced thermostat (drilled 2 holes).

Added a bypass hose.

Two hour test run had temps at a steady 70-80 C at cruise.

Thanks.

Blas · #6 (**permalink**) 10-18-2010, 04:59 PM

Excellent.....One less thing to worry about...Enjoy the car...

jhv48 · #7 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Voyager

Thanks to the counsel of this forum, I believe that I have fixed my overheating issue.

Replaced the thermostat with a Mr. Gasket 180 Balanced thermostat (drilled 2 holes).

Added a bypass hose.

Two hour test run had temps at a steady 70-80 C at cruise.

Thanks.

You're welcome.

Barnsnake · #8 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 08:33 PM

Glad to hear it's fixed. Now you can stop staring at the gauges and start enjoying the other sights and sounds!

madmaxx · #9 (**permalink**) 10-18-2010, 05:43 PM

Excellent feedback. A couple years ago I noticed in our frigid Texas winters (LOL) I could not get my coolant temp past 70C and it would take forever to warm up!!!!! Ambient was 55F!!! What I determined was a 180F thermostat was installed. After testing in a pot of water I realized the thermostat did not open until 180F but would not CLOSE until 170F and would alway bypass some. The coolant system is so efficient on a SPF any coolant circulation kept the engine temp under control.

I changed to an el cheapo 195F with hole drilled in the top. Now my temp gets to 95CF thermostat opens and settles around 80C, warms up much quicker. Even in our scorcher summers (not laughing this time) my temp stays at 90C and rarely the fans kick on.

On a side note the smith gauges are very very accurate for mechanical gauges. Both oil and temp were within 1 degree F against calibrated gauges. The oil pressure gauge was off 3 psig. I have not checked the amp, my speedo is dead on at 60mph but about 3mph off at 30.

Voyager · #10 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 05:39 AM

This weekend’s project is to swap out the oem motormounts for the Olthoff mounts (pipes are centered, but still occassionally hitting the body).

While the mounts are off, going to try to find & tightned the minor oil leak by the remote oil filter adapter/fittings on the block. Hopefully I can get a wrench on them when I pull the engine mount. Not much space.

Reached 1000 miles on the odometer this past weekend. Loving it.

CBattaglia · #11 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 06:13 AM

I switched to the poly mounts from Olthoff's aswell. But, after i cracked the fiberglass in the pipe cut out

. Good move to get that done.

Since your car is brand new, I recommend checking anything with threads regularly. If you see something loose, use a little blue loc tight to prevent loosening again. I had a throttle linkage, negative battery terminal, driveshaft bolt and maybe one or two others vibrate loose. As you can imagine the linkage and battery terminal left me dead on the side of the road. Luckily I found the nut on the linkage, dont know how. I was lucky enough to quickly fix the problems and get going again.

These cars are like helicopters, lots of vibration and maintenance. Its dangerous enough with out something falling off....

Enjoy your car, congrats!

madmaxx · #12 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 12:49 PM

As far as your oil filter adapter fitting YOU HAVE TO GET THE AN wrench and yes you will be able to tighten. Anything else and you will not be able to get to it. They sell for about $12 at summit, i believe it is 12 an but may be 10an, my wrench is blue if that helps.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Voyager

This weekend’s project is to swap out the oem motormounts for the Olthoff mounts (pipes are centered, but still occassionally hitting the body).

While the mounts are off, going to try to find & tightned the minor oil leak by the remote oil filter adapter/fittings on the block. Hopefully I can get a wrench on them when I pull the engine mount. Not much space.

Reached 1000 miles on the odometer this past weekend. Loving it.

madmaxx · #13 (**permalink**) 10-21-2010, 09:30 PM

wrench size is 10an and Gold in color for the oil filter adapter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by madmaxx

As far as your oil filter adapter fitting YOU HAVE TO GET THE AN wrench and yes you will be able to tighten. Anything else and you will not be able to get to it. They sell for about $12 at summit, i believe it is 12 an but may be 10an, my wrench is blue if that helps.

Voyager · #14 (**permalink**) 10-22-2010, 06:38 PM

More excitement.

Finished shimming the Olthoff motor mounts and fired it up in my garage. Engine came to life and immediately settled in at an audacious 4000 rpm

. Pretty much cleaned out any cobwebs in my garage.

A quick peek under the hood revealed the throttle linkage had to be readjusted based on the engine sitting in a slightly different position.

Should I loosen and then retighten the tranny mount to allow it to adjust also?

Test drive - The Olthoff mounts increased NVH slightly. Not bad - maybe a slight tingling in the steering wheel. Car felt tighter & quieter. A lot of the low rpm “chain-lash” feeling was gone (however-could be due to the engine still idling slightly higher than normal-will fix tomorrow). Biggest difference was at mid rpm. The engine felt very smooth shifting at 4k. Ran up to 5k and it felt great. Good stuff…I’m happy and recommend the mounts.

Will see tomorrow morning if the oil leak is gone.

Bob

madmaxx · #15 (**permalink**) 10-20-2010, 12:51 PM

Oh, I agree with the motormounts, no brainer, the rubber sheet that comes with it is pathetic for anything over 200 hp. You may have to do some grinding on the bottom half to make it fit up right. This is where a 4 post lift really shines.