Bake fluid flush

[JohnnyRay]

Yep! Superformance MkIII. 2004 build. I have a local independent shop perform annual preventative maintenance on my cars (i don't have a hoist), and they are sticklers for more frequent changes of brake/clutch fluid, antifreeze, transmissions and differentials. Do you think that every year or two is too often?

[Tim7139]

Originally Posted by JohnnyRay

Yep! Superformance MkIII. 2004 build. I have a local independent shop perform annual preventative maintenance on my cars (i don't have a hoist), and they are sticklers for more frequent changes of brake/clutch fluid, antifreeze, transmissions and differentials. Do you think that every year or two is too often?

I suspect they're sticklers for a steady income stream.

[Tim7139]

Originally Posted by JohnnyRay

Yep! Superformance MkIII. 2004 build. I have a local independent shop perform annual preventative maintenance on my cars (i don't have a hoist), and they are sticklers for more frequent changes of brake/clutch fluid, antifreeze, transmissions and differentials. Do you think that every year or two is too often?

I suspect they're sticklers for a steady income stream.
Now the Maybach, I do every couple years, every three on the Bugatti. The current F1 cars, I like to do every 6-8 months, unless I allow folks over to our track, and I get less drive time.

[Bernica]

OK, I will say it...
This is ridiculous. Name dropping doesn't work so well. With me, at least...

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by JohnnyRay

Do you think that every year or two is too often?

The most important fluid to regularly change in your car is your coolant. Do it religiously every three years (conventional green) and when your car is just sitting there in the garage (which is what it's doing 99.9% of the time), open the battery disconnect switch and don't forget to bleed off your capacitor.

[Blas]

Don't forget to check and replenish your blinker fluid, and yearly left to right bulb rotation also a good practice...

[patrickt]

A member requested a pic of my disconnect. It's a Battery Doctor knife switch rated at 250 amps continuous and 750 amps surge. I like a knife switch because it's easy to tell whether it's on or off.

[JohnnyRay]

Really? I knew where you were going Bernica, but chose to ignore it. Then your negativity got others to join in. We can't mention our other nice cars here when it comes to comparing service, features, whatever? Get over it already. If it was truly an off-topic comment then I might have deserved it. Was simply comparing recommended frequency of service between different cars that I am currently caring for. I am an enthusiast, much like you (but apparently not just like you) and I have worked hard over many years to build my small collection of very nice cars. Each was hard won, and several I could not afford to buy today. Applaud luck and good fortune for others, rather than criticize.

BTW - I am as excited about my (new to me) replica Cobra as any of them, as I have not had a Shelby (like) car since 1985. Missed two chances to buy 289 slab side cars back in the day - one for $15K (bought a Pantera instead) and one for $25K (with Webers. Bought a GT500 that time). Did not pass on the opportunity this time around.

So...be nice to me. I'm just a car enthusiast. I own each car because I enjoy them for what they are - not to show off. I drive each one - no garage queens - and they all represent a different experience. The MkIII is a standout in terms of that. And...you probably will not ever catch me doing a burnout... :-)

[patrickt]

I think Bernica has been taking lessons from RodKnock. I'm surprised no one asked why you have to bleed your capacitor. You only have to do that if you have the big-ass MSD "noise suppression" capacitor wired in (which you should, because it protects and extends the life of your MSD unit). To test your system, disconnect your battery and then hit your horn button. If you hear a momentary "honk," even with your battery disconnected, then your capacitor is holding a charge (as it should) and will potentially contribute to electrolysis over that long winter sleep. Just a little known fact that I thought I'd pass on....

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by JohnnyRay

So...be nice to me. I'm just a car enthusiast. I own each car because I enjoy them for what they are - not to show off. I drive each one - no garage queens - and they all represent a different experience. The MkIII is a standout in terms of that. And...you probably will not ever catch me doing a burnout... :-)

Johnny, My humble apologies. You will find that I'm actually a pretty good guy here and try to always keep an even keel. I was just was having a bad day...
BTW, congrats on the new MkIII. You're right, it's like nothing else!

[Emptybox]

Anyone know the part number for the Motive power bleeder cap that connects to the brake reservoir on a 2008 Superformance Cobra. I one I have does not fit. Thanks in advance

[NROTOXIN]

The Motive 0100 bleeder comes with the 45mm adapter 1100. You might want post your chassis # vs. year. Mine is listed above my post count as an example.

[Emptybox]

Thanks for the info- Exact part number I needed for the brake reservoir and clutch reservoir for my 2008 Superformance # 2787 for the Motive Power bleeder. I bought 3 quarts of dot 4 brake fluid. Clutch used probably less half a quart and brakes used probably 1.5 quarts and that was really letting a lots of clear new fluid flow out. A couple of observations. #1 with the location of the brake reservoir it’s important to make sure the line is not kinked. I originally placed the power bleeder on top of the air filter but that didn’t give enough slack in the line and it kinked right at the cap on the reservoir. I placed some towels on the engine bay and moved it right beside the brake reservoir and made sure the line is not kinked. #2 I needed Teflon tape where the 2 hoses connect or it would leak and not hold pressure. #3 the Willwood bleeder valves are different sizes front to rear. My catch bottle is a Gatorade bottle with a tube and another hole drilled into the cap to allow air to escape. 1/4 inch inside diameter tube for the rear (single bleeder for each caliper) . For the fronts there is 4 bleeders on each caliper. Per the Willwood website you only bleed the 2 bleeder valves on the top so I followed that. I used some old Rc boat cooling tube which has a smaller inside diameter for the smaller bleeder valves on the front. Followed the normal RR, LR, RF LF bleeding. #3 it seemed important for the tubes attached to the bleeder needed to come out going up before curving down to the Gatorade bottle. Any air in the system wanted to go up.
Car is new to me but has about 8k miles but I think the fluid is probably original to the car (13 years old). Brakes def feel nice and firm now and car was pulling a bit left on braking which is also gone now. Sorry for the long post but might help someone in the future

[Emptybox]

Thanks for the info- Exact part number I needed for the brake reservoir and clutch reservoir for my 2008 Superformance # 2787 for the Motive Power bleeder. I bought 3 quarts of dot 4 brake fluid. Clutch used probably less half a quart and brakes used probably 1.5 quarts and that was really letting a lots of clear new fluid flow out. A couple of observations. #1 with the location of the brake reservoir it’s important to make sure the line is not kinked. I originally placed the power bleeder on top of the air filter but that didn’t give enough slack in the line and it kinked right at the cap on the reservoir. I placed some towels on the engine bay and moved it right beside the brake reservoir and made sure the line is not kinked. #2 I needed Teflon tape where the 2 hoses connect or it would leak and not hold pressure. #3 the Willwood bleeder valves are different sizes front to rear. My catch bottle is a Gatorade bottle with a tube and another hole drilled into the cap to allow air to escape. 1/4 inch inside diameter tube for the rear (single bleeder for each caliper) . For the fronts there is 4 bleeders on each caliper. Per the Willwood website you only bleed the 2 bleeder valves on the top so I followed that. I used some old Rc boat cooling tube which has a smaller inside diameter for the smaller bleeder valves on the front. Followed the normal RR, LR, RF LF bleeding. #3 it seemed important for the tubes attached to the bleeder needed to come out going up before curving down to the Gatorade bottle. Any air in the system wanted to go up.
Car is new to me but has about 8k miles but I think the fluid is probably original to the car (13 years old). Brakes def feel nice and firm now and car was pulling a bit left on braking which is also gone now. Sorry for the long post but might help someone in the future

[zzmac]

Originally Posted by patrickt

You can order it off Amazon (Deutschland). Your account here, works there. Prime does not, however.

[ame="http://www.amazon.de/BREMSFL%C3%9CSSIGKEIT-558-52-45-1LITER-GELB--Literpreis/dp/B0080CTM54/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1461713326&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=ATE+03990162022+Bremsfl%C3%BCssigke it+Typ+200"]BREMSFLÜSSIGKEIT - 558.52.45 - TYP 200 1LITER - ATE GELB - DOT 4 -Literpreis 29,32 € -: Amazon.de: Auto@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/315tw8FIXzL.@@AMEPARAM@@315tw8FIXzL[/ame]

I can't get these links to work. What is the actual name of this blue brake fluid? Still the best one to buy?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by zzmac

I can't get these links to work. What is the actual name of this blue brake fluid? Still the best one to buy?

It's called ATE Original Super Blue, but for the most part you can't find it anymore. For a while, you could buy it via sites in Europe, but I believe ATE discontinued the production, even for off-road uses, because of the change in US DOT regs that prohibits brake fluid from being that color. You had to have the foresight to have bought a case back when it was available.

[patrickt]

You might still be able to get it in the land down under, see here: https://www.autosphere.com.au/produc...g-brake-fluid/ but I would check with some of our members down there before I spent any money.

[zzmac]

Originally Posted by patrickt

You might still be able to get it in the land down under, see here: https://www.autosphere.com.au/produc...g-brake-fluid/ but I would check with some of our members down there before I spent any money.

What's the next best brand?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by zzmac

What's the next best brand?

Castrol LMA DOT-4 fluid will do you just as well as SuperBlue, it just won't be blue.

[zzmac]

Thanks Patrick.