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Originally Posted by spl310
I have an oil cooler assembly for a car that will likely never need it, but it is a factory part,so I may put it on. How well do these thermostats work? Is there a pressure drop using them? Is it just a 4 connection fit (the first one seems to have lines all over!) |
I just recently strung together several days of seat time (including this morning!) and can answer all of your questions.
How well do these thermostats work? OUTSTANDING! The engine reaches operating temperature measurably faster than it used to. It's not a "five minutes and it's there" proposition, but before I had to drive for a good 15 minutes or so just to get even to 150 degrees.
Is there a pressure drop using them? JUST THE OPPOSITE! I'm seeing a good 6-7 psi more upon start-up, as there is
less hose for the
oil to snake through when the flow is being directed to the thermostat.
Is it just a 4 connection (the first one seems to have lines all over!)? 
It looks intimidating, but part of your confusion possibly stems from three sources: (1) the braided feeder lines from the block adapter to the remote
oil filter, (2) the -8 braided line that links the driver's side valve cover to the breather tank that sits in front of the thermostat, or (3) the "loop" hose that I had to create to route the oil from the remote filter housing to the thermostat.
As you indicated, it essentially is a 4 hose connection. But with a remote oil filter set-up, that add's additional hose to the set-up. And since most of our cars require (due to frame clearance issues) a remote filter set-up, you then have to plumb the thermostat
after you filter the oil. Thus, creating this loop/connection from the remote filter housing to the thermostat requires some creativity. I was going to figure out a way to do it with just hard adapters and fittings (no hose), but it would have looked funky and would have cost me an easy $100 in parts.
PM me if you have any questions.
-Dean
Hybrid Mode
