engine does not look center

Blas · #1 (**permalink**) 10-23-2008, 10:25 PM

As McDoo said, the important thing is having the headers passing thru the bodywork properly centered to prevent paint blistering. As to where the engine sits, is the engine level left to right? Sliding the engine forward and backwards is easy to do by loosening the motormounts on the chassis and using a short prybar to move the engine. The driveshaft is rarely perfectly straight from the trans to the rearend. Is this a new SPF? What is the car number? Who did the install?

cobras · #2 (**permalink**) 10-23-2008, 10:34 PM

blas the install was done at D&M, car is spo 2162 and has 700 miles on it. also there are 2 shims under the mount on the pass side to raise the motor up.

when i said about shifting the motor i mean shifting it from side to side driver to pass side.

its just the side pipes are off running down the side of the car and where the pipes come through the body is bad also, i talked with kevin 2 days ago and he told me the car originally had a roush engine in it and they took it out and put a ford mosport 475hp engine in it, im not sur if this issue is the norm for these cars or if its the ngine not looking centered in the engine bay

wtm442 · #3 (**permalink**) 10-24-2008, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobras

... the install was done at D&M, car is spo 2162 and has 700 miles on it.

OK. Write out all of your complaints and ask D&M for a written answer. Maybe they will correct some of the things. If not, get a written reply to your questions. Then you will have a leg to stand on if anything goes wrong. Once you make any adjustment to the "install", D&M are off the hook.

One thing you want to take a look at is the driveshaft angles.

Now that you have my attention, I may go out to my unheated garage (42°F outside) and take some measurements. But I have 17K miles, and no problems with paint by header/exhaust pipes.

As soon as you touch the gas pedal, the carb should respond. Are you a SCOF member yet? There is a great write up on accelerator pedal adjustments in the library. You should also join Second Strike. Both SPF based sites have a ton of help.
Good Luck

scootter · #4 (**permalink**) 10-24-2008, 03:32 PM

I have #1436 with a big block in it. My motor sits 3/4" off to the passenger side. Even though the engine is that far over, my side pipe was still closer to the body on the passenger side. On SCOF, you can purchase a shim to correct it. Is isn't just a flat shim, is is a tapered shim. Otherwise the pipe drops down to much.
Before I put the shim in, I couldn't even put my finger between the pipes and body. I never changed it till I had about 15k miles on the car.

As for the clutch, it is only the master cylinder pushing the pedal back up. So I can't image it getting any faster unless you put a spring on it which I don't think it needs.

Did you check to make sure the nut on the gas pedal shaft is tight? If it is loose, the pedal will move before the shaft moves all the linkage. If thats the case, the shaft might already be worn. I had to replace mine.

Hope this helps.

Scott

Blittleton · #5 (**permalink**) 10-24-2008, 05:20 PM

My experience is to shim the side pipe. You can get these from Eric at Performance Engineering, Ross, OH.

Bill

cobras · #6 (**permalink**) 10-24-2008, 05:38 PM

thanks guys for your time and tips, well im happy to say that i did fix the issue today took me 5 hrs to do but its done gaps are almost perfect 100 times better then what it was, but let me tell you to undo motor tranny mounts wasnt bad at all it was shifting the motor around and the checking it the back under car etc,, damm it sucked but 6 cups of coffee and about 10 smokes its all said and done,

sonow i move on to the next issue the gas pedal the 10mm nut at the top of the gas peddal is tight and all looks good there, i will have to join the 2 sites mentioned above to research the whole site and tinker withmy car,

again thanks to all who posted.

Blas · #7 (**permalink**) 10-24-2008, 06:15 PM

You spoke with Brian at D&M today too I understand...

mjmacqua · #8 (**permalink**) 10-25-2008, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobras

thanks guys for your time and tips, well im happy to say that i did fix the issue today took me 5 hrs to do but its done gaps are almost perfect 100 times better then what it was, but let me tell you to undo motor tranny mounts wasnt bad at all it was shifting the motor around and the checking it the back under car etc,, damm it sucked but 6 cups of coffee and about 10 smokes its all said and done,

sonow i move on to the next issue the gas pedal the 10mm nut at the top of the gas peddal is tight and all looks good there, i will have to join the 2 sites mentioned above to research the whole site and tinker withmy car,

again thanks to all who posted.

Cobras,

Can you tell me exactly how you moved the engine and drive line over. I have a similar issue, I just installed my motor and tranny yesterday all seemed to be lined up nice (I haven't attached the headers yet, doing that between today and tomorrow). But I noticed that the shifter seems to be too far to the driver side. When I actually attached it and put it in first and second gear it is rubbing on the cut out (didnt have that in the past). If I could move the line over that 1/4" it would be perfect. Keeping in mind I havent hung the pipes and headers yet.

For the record this is not a brand new build, it is just a brand new motor. Same 460 style, Just everything brand new.

Mike