Regular or Synthetic Oil? - Page 2

WildBill3 · #21 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 05:03 PM

I allways tell the story about Moble1 saving my engine when we lost a water pump belt on first or second lap at a race here in KC and went onto finish we dropped the pan to see how bad it was and everything looked New on the rotaiting end the head was toast but it was stock so no biggy Our engine guy Kevin at K@M told me it saved our @$$.Ihave total respect for Full synthetic oils.We Run Royal Purpal now.

ekrupa2 · #22 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 05:04 PM

Castrol 10W30 for storage only in winter...Valvoline Racing 20w50 in summer.

maxum_101 · #23 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzmac

Hi All,

Roush 402R engine, Mileage 2100. (Street driven, not too hard) It's time for my first oil change (since I bought the car last fall) and Roush says I can switch to full synthetic now, if I choose.

From a little research on CC, I was going to use Valvoline VR1 for the oil and a Wix 51622 oil filter. I was planning on waiting til 3000 miles before possibly switching to synthetic but I now have the Roush green light.

So, do I stick with the Valvoline VR1 or go to fully synthetic (and if so, what brand and why)?

Thanks in advance for your time & knowledge!

Hey zzmac, by any chance is your car titanium with a black stripe?

these cars are very rare here in canada, i think this is the car from peterbrough that i went to go look at, but i could be wrong

zrayr · #24 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 05:53 PM

I use Mobil 1 15w-50 in my Paxton supercharged (flat tappet) 289. Been using it for 22,000 miles now, no wear, no leaks, no problems. It has 1200 ppm of zddp, about the most you can get w/o going to a racing oil or the Mobil 1 V-twin oil (1600 ppm zddp).

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...1_15W-50_.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...t_Engines.aspx

Z. Ray

zzmac · #25 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 07:06 PM

Now that we've all agreed on the oil, can we all agree that the Wix 51622 oil filter is the best (standard type) bang for the buck - better than the Motorcraft?

Got the Bug · #26 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzmac

Now that we've all agreed on the oil, can we all agree that the Wix 51622 oil filter is the best (standard type) bang for the buck - better than the Motorcraft?

The 51622 is listed as the equivalent to the FL1-HP on the Wix site. They describe it as a transmission filter, but it works fine as a substitute for the FL1-HP. Napa also sells the 1622 filter.

If you have easy access to one, probably best to just run the FL1-HP.

Mastiff107 · #27 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 07:58 PM

If you want zinc, Shell Rotella-T and Valvoline's are the only 2 left I know of. Have to run Rotella with my solid lifters. After observing a lot of Harley's running synthetics, I noticed (as have meny others) weeping around the heads. It's easier to see on a bike than a car engine. I will stick with fossil.

JBCOBRA · #28 (**permalink**) 04-16-2009, 06:36 AM

Anyone tried VR1 50 weight? I heard there is more oil in a straight weight than a multi-weight?

WarrenG · #29 (**permalink**) 04-16-2009, 07:07 AM

Shell Rotella T in my 289 (stroked to 331). Recommended by the builder and has performed well in the 6K miles I've driven.

zzmac · #30 (**permalink**) 04-16-2009, 08:34 AM

Thanks to everyone for your replies.

Because their doesn't appear to be a consensus, I think I'll stick closer to Roush's recommendations and I'm going to go with Valvoline VR1 (10W30) and a Motorcraft FL1-HP oil filter and I'll change the oil every 2000 miles to keep everything fresh. I don't think I can go too far wrong with this combo.

PANAVIA · #31 (**permalink**) 04-16-2009, 11:20 PM

IMHO : Tighter clearances = lower visco numbers , looser tolerances = higher.

I run 15w-50 Chevron Delo 400 for break-in and i am a huge Mobil1 fan.

Synthetic oils are neato-rific if you are using them with modern gaskets and modern seals (uber-plasistized-silicone derivatives ) if you --de-dino oil, your "Cork-And-Rubber" gaskets may be subject to leakage.

Remember, -- With natural oils, --dead-dinos leach into cork bits and expand them a bit.

Steve

sparks · #32 (**permalink**) 04-20-2009, 08:03 PM

I have heard lately that strait 50 weight oil is great to use in 50+degree weather. Say it out performs all multi visc. oils ? Any thoughts..

JCoop · #33 (**permalink**) 04-22-2009, 11:16 AM

Sparks, it is but only at operating temps. The problem is, what happens before your engine gets there. Cold startup is the biggest cause of lubrication-related failure and it's when the most amount of wear occurs. At start up, 50W is too thick to move efficiently through the motor; thus, the value of multi-viscosity technology. I use Mobil1 0W40 and also use an accusump which works great as a pre-oiler.