Which Clutch Fork? - Page 2

Cobra 29 · #1 (**permalink**) 01-17-2010, 06:06 AM

RodgerH,

I would like to see the slave cylinder set-up you decribed. Have you posted any pics? What about others with the same Superperformance set-up?

Thanks in advance

elmariachi · #2 (**permalink**) 01-07-2010, 04:08 PM

Bill you've got another email.

Jim

PANAVIA · #3 (**permalink**) 01-11-2010, 02:15 AM

I was thinking about this more -

- and it might make sense to have a pull-type fork in an FE setup.

it would allow the use of nice diaphragm clutches, nice clutch release bearings and would open up your selection of release forks.

not to mention tunnel clearance - fork moves forward to disengage clutch using the bell-housing tunnel area for fork movement.

Let me look at this and advise.

RodgerH · #4 (**permalink**) 02-10-2010, 02:28 PM

Thanks Patrick. Did the brass colored piece come from ERA?

patrickt · #5 (**permalink**) 02-10-2010, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodgerH

Thanks Patrick. Did the brass colored piece come from ERA?

Yes, but it doesn't appear to be anything terribly special. You could undoubtedly find something just as suitable at a plumbing supply store.

ERA Chas · #6 (**permalink**) 02-10-2010, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yes, but it doesn't appear to be anything terribly special. You could undoubtedly find something just as suitable at a plumbing supply store.

I have that same ball-end piece and I'm not positive Pat but that may be a specially hardened steel piece with cad plate-it is NOT brass. They machined it beautifully. I would not advise hardware store stuff on a piece that resists friction of 200-300 pound force and is used countless times per drive...

patrickt · #7 (**permalink**) 02-10-2010, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

I have that same ball-end piece and I'm not positive Pat but that may be a specially hardened steel piece with cad plate-it is NOT brass. They machined it beautifully. I would not advise hardware store stuff on a piece that resists friction of 200-300 pound force and is used countless times per drive...

Yes, you're right on that Chas. So, I'll take it back.

RodgerH · #8 (**permalink**) 02-10-2010, 02:54 PM

Ok....thanks. Presently I'm using a rod with a rounded tip. A spring (same as in your pictures) holds it tight against the slave piston. Only problem is the rod length adjustment is at the slave cylinder end of the rod, so I have to slide the boot back to get to get to it. I may do something similar to your setup.

Rodger

lovehamr · #9 (**permalink**) 02-10-2010, 03:39 PM

Here's what I'm using w/my FE. It's a modified bracket from Bill, push type cylinder, TKO, late model type clutch "fork" and QT bellhousing.

patrickt · #10 (**permalink**) 02-10-2010, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovehamr

Here's what I'm using w/my FE. It's a modified bracket from Bill, push type cylinder, TKO, late model type clutch "fork" and QT bellhousing.

LoveHamr, how do you adjust the slave to fork distance as the clutch wears? With shims on the slave itself? Or is the rod somehow adjustable and I just can't see it because I have snow-blindness?

lovehamr · #11 (**permalink**) 02-10-2010, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

LoveHamr, how do you adjust the slave to fork distance as the clutch wears? With shims on the slave itself? Or is the rod somehow adjustable and I just can't see it because I have snow-blindness?

Actually I have 2 different push rods, one is a threaded type. Once the car is running I'll try both and see how things work out. The cylinder seems to have a very long throw.

Steve