Which Clutch Fork?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodgerH

Do you have the p/n (or a source) for the pivot seat you used with your clutch fork?

I have a Lakewood 15210 Bellhousing. The pivot ball is the Lakewood Adjustable Clutch Fork Pivot Ball for that item. Here is the page: http://www.lakewoodindustries.com/Pr...minselection=6

Originally Posted by RodgerH

Also, could you go into a little details on the fabrication of your adjustable clutch pushrod?

You use a threaded rod coming out of the slave cylinder. The threaded rod pass completely though a larger piece that will make contact with the clutch fork. It is brass colored in the photo below. You can also see a silver locknut that holds the brass piece locked in place. The threaded rod passes all the way through the clutch fork via a hole that you must drill in the fork itself. You can place another nut on the threaded rod behind the clutch fork to ensure that it does not pop out of the fork on really fast shifts. Thus, everything is adjustable on the threaded rod.

[patrickt]

Just to be extra clear, the brass colored piece that comes in direct contact with the clutch fork is also threaded (it is not smooth-bored around the threaded rod). Thus you turn that brass colored piece while holding the threaded rod to adjust its proximity to the fork. This older post of mine has more detailed instructions on adjusting the clutch: Clutch Adjustments

[RodgerH]

Thanks Patrick. Did the brass colored piece come from ERA?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodgerH

Thanks Patrick. Did the brass colored piece come from ERA?

Yes, but it doesn't appear to be anything terribly special. You could undoubtedly find something just as suitable at a plumbing supply store.

[RodgerH]

Ok....thanks. Presently I'm using a rod with a rounded tip. A spring (same as in your pictures) holds it tight against the slave piston. Only problem is the rod length adjustment is at the slave cylinder end of the rod, so I have to slide the boot back to get to get to it. I may do something similar to your setup.

Rodger

[lovehamr]

Here's what I'm using w/my FE. It's a modified bracket from Bill, push type cylinder, TKO, late model type clutch "fork" and QT bellhousing.

[Anthony]

Originally Posted by RodgerH

Do you have the p/n (or a source) for the pivot seat you used with your clutch fork? I checked with the local Ford garage and with RockAuto...both showed the fork you referred to, but neither had a reference to the pivot. The spring broke on my fork and I'm considering a different style.

Also, could you go into a little details on the fabrication of your adjustable clutch pushrod?

I used a BBC rocker pivot, slid over a hardened threaded rod ( from a leaf spring clamping U bolt ) with two jam nuts behind the rocker pivot. I ground the other end of the rod to a rounded shape that went into the seat inside the slave cylinder.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by lovehamr

Here's what I'm using w/my FE. It's a modified bracket from Bill, push type cylinder, TKO, late model type clutch "fork" and QT bellhousing.

LoveHamr, how do you adjust the slave to fork distance as the clutch wears? With shims on the slave itself? Or is the rod somehow adjustable and I just can't see it because I have snow-blindness?

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Yes, but it doesn't appear to be anything terribly special. You could undoubtedly find something just as suitable at a plumbing supply store.

I have that same ball-end piece and I'm not positive Pat but that may be a specially hardened steel piece with cad plate-it is NOT brass. They machined it beautifully. I would not advise hardware store stuff on a piece that resists friction of 200-300 pound force and is used countless times per drive...

[lovehamr]

Originally Posted by patrickt

LoveHamr, how do you adjust the slave to fork distance as the clutch wears? With shims on the slave itself? Or is the rod somehow adjustable and I just can't see it because I have snow-blindness?

Actually I have 2 different push rods, one is a threaded type. Once the car is running I'll try both and see how things work out. The cylinder seems to have a very long throw.

Steve

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

I have that same ball-end piece and I'm not positive Pat but that may be a specially hardened steel piece with cad plate-it is NOT brass. They machined it beautifully. I would not advise hardware store stuff on a piece that resists friction of 200-300 pound force and is used countless times per drive...

Yes, you're right on that Chas. So, I'll take it back.