Clutch fork travel

[lippy]

Brent tells me the dual clutch disk is really easy to engage but holds a lot of power. I'm going to fool around with the setup I have now. I think it is close but I need to test it.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by lippy

Brent tells me the dual clutch disk is really easy to engage but holds a lot of power. I'm going to fool around with the setup I have now. I think it is close but I need to test it.

Yes, my Mustang GT has a dual disk clutch - very, very light and smooth. That should really be really nice to drive.

[lippy]

So I we determined I need at least 0.35" at the clutch, which translates to 0.6125" at the slave, minimum. I bled the thing about 6-7x and adjusted the rod so it almost has no play. And after all of that I'm only getting 0.607" (measured with a caliper/depth gauge). I jacked the rear up and had my wife depress the clutch all the way, and I couldn't get the wheel to turn. So it's definitely not disengaging. Everything feels fairly tight and certainly not spongy. The clutch begins to engage pretty soon.

Update: I adjusted the clutch pedal because it occurred to me that may be a limiting factor. It was, but somehow it still didn't solve the problem. With more clutch pedal travel (and the footrest of the clutch pedal being out of position), I'm getting only 0.826" travel at the slave end of the fork. That *should* be enough, but it still doesn't disengage (jack the car up, put it in gear, depress the clutch, try to turn the wheel). I can turn the wheels when the trans is in neutral. What else could be the problem here?

[patrickt]

In his first post, Lippy writes "Where the slave rod meets the clutch fork, I get a total of about 1/2" - 3/4" movement." If you look at my video, I get two to three times that -- I think he should move the slave closer to the fork, bleed it again, this time with the nose up in the air, and if that still fails, remove the clutch assembly set screw and rotate the clutch pedal way up towards the seat so he could get a test push of an extra long amount and that should at least rule out some sort of goof-ball binding inside the bell housing. Anyway, that's what I would try....