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04-24-2014, 05:43 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley
Posts: 136
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Not Ranked
Just got my top this week from Mr Bruce.
I got my top this week from Mr Bruce, and it looks top notch.
His crate building skill were also top notch at the top was fully braced in every direction.
I will have to do some work to get it to fit as Mr B told me in advance, but I'm just glad to have it.
I think at some point I will cut the back of the top, and have it where I can open the rear window, and the trunk.
Sorry for the bad picture, but my battery is either disconnected or ran down so I can't get the car outside just now for better pictures.

__________________
You can put a chebby engine into a Ford body, but it will NEVER be a chevrolet. It also shows you're ignorant, and lack imagination, as in its been done to death as in its not an original idea.
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04-25-2014, 08:47 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Portland,
OR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA FIA, 1964 289->Webers
Posts: 3,689
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Not Ranked
Very nice! Can't wait to see it fitted & painted
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ERA FIA 2088
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04-25-2014, 01:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley
Posts: 136
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Neutral
Looks like I may have to chop my roll bar just a bit to get the top low enough to look right.
Anyone have any experience with lowering the roll bar? I have some pretty good fabrication skills, but it would be nice to have a heads up on anything note worthy.
__________________
You can put a chebby engine into a Ford body, but it will NEVER be a chevrolet. It also shows you're ignorant, and lack imagination, as in its been done to death as in its not an original idea.
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04-25-2014, 06:20 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dallas,
tx
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR track car, SL-C track car
Posts: 1,262
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrain2000
Anyone have any experience with lowering the roll bar? I have some pretty good fabrication skills, but it would be nice to have a heads up on anything note worthy.
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It's reasonably straightforward, but can be tricky depending on a few things (such as access) and may be a bit more work than it initally looks like.
Basically unbolt and remove everything, measure and cut off however much you want from the hoop and down bar.
You will likely have to cut off and re-weld the mount for the down bar because the angle will change, and will likely need to enlarge the hole in the body so you may need to glass in the extra area in the hole that is leftover from the old opening. So that area may need new paint.
You get the idea.
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04-25-2014, 01:34 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: McConnellsburg,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA FIA #2124
Posts: 687
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Not Ranked
Here are a bunch of pictures of mine for your reference:
FIA HardTop Photos by Fullchat289 | Photobucket
Hopefully there is some adjustment in the angle of your windscreen and you can bring the back of the window opening consistant with the door opening. Have fun with the project!
- Allen.
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04-25-2014, 03:00 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley
Posts: 136
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullchat289
Here are a bunch of pictures of mine for your reference:
FIA HardTop Photos by Fullchat289 | Photobucket
Hopefully there is some adjustment in the angle of your windscreen and you can bring the back of the window opening consistant with the door opening. Have fun with the project!
- Allen.
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Thanks for that tip, as it was spot on. I just went, and removed the bottom bolts from the windshield, and pulled it back about a couple of inches, and now it fits right at the rear door parting line.
Oh, and thanks also for the photos. I hope you don't mind a few PMs if I get stuck........
__________________
You can put a chebby engine into a Ford body, but it will NEVER be a chevrolet. It also shows you're ignorant, and lack imagination, as in its been done to death as in its not an original idea.
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04-25-2014, 08:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: McConnellsburg,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA FIA #2124
Posts: 687
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtrain2000
Thanks for that tip, as it was spot on. I just went, and removed the bottom bolts from the windshield, and pulled it back about a couple of inches, and now it fits right at the rear door parting line.
Oh, and thanks also for the photos. I hope you don't mind a few PMs if I get stuck........
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You are welcome to shoot me pm's or emails...glad the windscreen angle suggestion was helpful. Looks like Bruce left you lots of material on the bottom edge to get the contour shape of your body....I know you've got the roll bar to trim, but have a look at my pics, or Google "cobra lemans hardtop" for images to give you a guide for how much to cut off..
-Allen.
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04-26-2014, 02:30 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Shasta Lake,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 26,612
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Not Ranked
Once you get it fitted and painted that is going to be a nice top. One question about the roll bar. If you lower it, will it be lower than your head when you are sitting in the seat? Here if a cop is in a bad mood they can and have ticked dome people for that.
Ron 
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04-26-2014, 11:12 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley
Posts: 136
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron61
Once you get it fitted and painted that is going to be a nice top. One question about the roll bar. If you lower it, will it be lower than your head when you are sitting in the seat? Here if a cop is in a bad mood they can and have ticked dome people for that.
Ron 
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The roll bar is a good bit over my head, and I am around 6 ft tall.
I think most Cobra kit car makers do this to accommodate as many different size people as they can.
I figure to measure it to just about an inch, or so above my head.
I'm glad Mr. B left lots to cut as its easier to cut the excess than to add.
__________________
You can put a chebby engine into a Ford body, but it will NEVER be a chevrolet. It also shows you're ignorant, and lack imagination, as in its been done to death as in its not an original idea.
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04-26-2014, 02:07 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley
Posts: 136
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Not Ranked
Here is what I found today. It looks like the roll bar isn't welded to the frame.
There are two bolts per arm of the roll bar. One bolt on the side, and one on the bottom. [of course I just noticed that I have already removed the bolts in the pic below, sorry]
So, with a rubber mallet I have tried knocking the bar upwards with only getting the bar to move about an inch.
Here is a picture of the underside.
Also, the angled rear bar seems to have a sleeve that will rotate after I removed the bolt on its side.
I have looked everything over, but I still can't see what is keeping the bar in. Look at this picture of where the rear angled bar meets the hoop. Looks like its a separate piece that should pull out with the rest of the bar.
If I can get this out, it will be easy to cut, and reinstall. [of course everything would be easier if the car wasn't already painted......lol].
After beating on this for nearly an hour I think the only way its comming out is to get the engine puller out, and try jacking it out with a strap.
__________________
You can put a chebby engine into a Ford body, but it will NEVER be a chevrolet. It also shows you're ignorant, and lack imagination, as in its been done to death as in its not an original idea.
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04-26-2014, 04:04 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley
Posts: 136
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Not Ranked
Ok, it took the engine puller to get it out.
VERY TENSE! But, out it came.
Popped just a bit of glass off the hole that the rear brace went through, but thankfully that was all.
Now I can get into fitting the top.

__________________
You can put a chebby engine into a Ford body, but it will NEVER be a chevrolet. It also shows you're ignorant, and lack imagination, as in its been done to death as in its not an original idea.
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04-26-2014, 04:15 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dallas,
tx
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR track car, SL-C track car
Posts: 1,262
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Not Ranked
Those bars can be sticky sometimes!
Glad you got it out.
Looking forward to watching your progress.
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04-28-2014, 08:46 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley
Posts: 136
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Not Ranked
Someone was telling me about a latch setup for holding down Mazda Miata hard tops.
Sounds like it might be a good idea, anyone else have one. I know my old 55 T-bird had some nice latches, but I would bet they cost a fortune.
__________________
You can put a chebby engine into a Ford body, but it will NEVER be a chevrolet. It also shows you're ignorant, and lack imagination, as in its been done to death as in its not an original idea.
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04-30-2014, 06:02 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley
Posts: 136
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Not Ranked
Anyone have any idea's on a mounting kit for the top?
I would like to do something period correct, but nothing so rare that they don't make in the aftermarket.
This would be great as I could easily remove the top.
__________________
You can put a chebby engine into a Ford body, but it will NEVER be a chevrolet. It also shows you're ignorant, and lack imagination, as in its been done to death as in its not an original idea.
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05-01-2014, 08:40 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: McConnellsburg,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA FIA #2124
Posts: 687
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Not Ranked
I have some details here on "page 5" of how I mounted mine. It's worked very well for me.
LeMans Hardtop for ERA
A further evolution of the filler neck can be found here on "page 2":
Ownership Log – ERA#2124
- Allen.
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05-01-2014, 05:33 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley
Posts: 136
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fullchat289
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Thanks, yes I did see that, but what I'm looking for is some type of quick release like the setup on the early T-birds.
Also, I will keep my side gas filler as I don't need the top fill.
__________________
You can put a chebby engine into a Ford body, but it will NEVER be a chevrolet. It also shows you're ignorant, and lack imagination, as in its been done to death as in its not an original idea.
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05-01-2014, 12:57 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Dayton,
OH
Cobra Make, Engine: RCR SLC, Graziano 6-spd, LS3
Posts: 914
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Not Ranked
For future reference, the rollbar is much easier to remove if you unbolt the rear brace. I'm surprised you got it out without doing that.
Is there more structure to the front mount for the rollbar that can't be seen in your first pic? Otherwise, it's cosmetic only. If you put the weight of the car on that, it'd break off pretty quick.
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