Need 2 post lift recommend

[trularin]

I went with Rotary. Purchased a used unit and had the hydraulics rebuilt.

Whatever you get, make sure you have the ceiling.

Tru

[REAL 1]

More important than ceiling make sure you have enough thickness for the base and correct cement.

Mohawk makes a stout unit.

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by REAL 1

More important than ceiling make sure you have enough thickness for the base and correct cement.

Mohawk makes a stout unit.

For my own peace of mind, I would be saw cutting the slab at the anchoring locations. Around 18-24" square and then digging a footing and installing anchor bolts (J-bolts) in the footing along with some minimum 3,000 psi concrete. You can just use a piece of plywood as a template and drill holes to hold the anchor bolts in the correct position while pouring the mud.

[RockBit]

Originally Posted by Bernica

For my own peace of mind, I would be saw cutting the slab at the anchoring locations. Around 18-24" square and then digging a footing and installing anchor bolts (J-bolts) in the footing along with some minimum 3,000 psi concrete. You can just use a piece of plywood as a template and drill holes to hold the anchor bolts in the correct position while pouring the mud.

Good thought. If I can get the template for the lift before I have the floor poured, it would be better to set the j-bolts than hammer drilling the holes.

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by RockBit

Good thought. If I can get the template for the lift before I have the floor poured, it would be better to set the j-bolts than hammer drilling the holes.

Make your own template easily. Just put a piece of plywood under the base plate and mark the holes. Then drill the holes in the plywood and double-nut the anchor bolts to it. Drop it into the footing and suspend it with some 1/2 or 3/4" strips across the hole. Center and square it and pour the footing. Just measure, then measure again!

[Jaydee]

I got a Molnar 2 poster and love it. But the ultimate is one without the base plate but an overhead joiner. What I plan to do with mine, so to make it less hassle to get the Cobra on and of. Is to install 4 rails across the arms, and have them lined up with the wheels. So I can just drive on and lift. I was thinking of using angle iron with the point sticking up so the smooth sides will rest against the tyres in front and back of the tyre. I'm making a large light weight frame hanging from the ceiling with the car cover strapped between it. So as the Cobra rises up, it will automatically go into the car cover. Will also avoid scratches, not having to drag the cover of the car.
My hoist is hydraulic. But I think most are screw thread now. I'm not sure which one I prefer?
JD

[Dwight]

I bought a Atlas 8000 for nine foot ceilings this summer. I have 10' 4" ceiling.
I had it delivered to my brother's shop and used their forklift. Then we set it into my truck and I used my engine hoist to unload at my shop. It was easy to pick up the post with the engine lift and set them in place. I did the unloading and install by myself.
One thing I learned, a 5 1/2" wedge bolt with not work if the expanding ring is below the 4" slab. Messed up four and bought all new wedge bolts only to find out that I was installing them to deep for the expanding ring to work. I've installed thousands (I mean thousands) of anchor bolt in my career. Learn something new all the time.
I epoxy the four in with all thread rod.

Works great with a Cobra.
I should have bought a two post lift ten years ago!

I'm going to tray my ceiling this winter so I can lift truck the max lifting height.

Coach bought an Atlas 12' model in 2010 and it works great.
Jack just bought 12' unit and tray'ed his shop ceiling with no trouble.

Erik bought a 9' Atlas for the garage last spring. He is always building something. Right now it's a GTM

If you are going to change oil or work on your car at home you need a lift. I think we all paid less the $2000 for our lifts.

[Luce]

I rented a shop, and made a deal with the previous tenant and bought his big (unknown brand) 2 post lift. I love working on the underside with it 2" above my head, so my hair barely mops up the leaked oil. BUT, it's a pain in the a$$ getting the car up and on it. the pipes are too low to swing the arms in with the extension pads, but the frame is too much higher. I have to use a floor jack and lift the car 4" to swing the arms under the frame. When I lower it, I set it on 4 wood blocks and just drive off.

It may be more an issue with my car how I built the pipes low.