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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 08-01-2019, 12:42 PM
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Default pics of the gear

Ok as promised looks new 1500 miles!Name:  0801 002.jpg
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Old 08-01-2019, 12:57 PM
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Old 08-01-2019, 01:27 PM
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Maybe you have a bronze cam - can you get a pic up in there of the cam itself? Especially the areas that blykins mentioned.

Edit: This would do the trick: New Cool Tool - DeWalt DC410 Inspection Camera - Quick Review with Pics and Video

Last edited by patrickt; 08-01-2019 at 01:35 PM..
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Old 08-01-2019, 03:33 PM
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Sorry guys but, you are wrong ,at least in my case. I will say however, it is a msd bronze gear witch may be a little harder than others. Not sure but they claim it is in their advertising. I will continue to keep an eye on things and let you Mr.patrickt know how things are. Looks like I get to keep my cobra a little longer. Also took a look inside the hole and the cam gear looked to be in good shape.
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Old 08-01-2019, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hauss View Post
Sorry guys but, you are wrong ,at least in my case. I will say however, it is a msd bronze gear witch may be a little harder than others. Not sure but they claim it is in their advertising. I will continue to keep an eye on things and let you Mr.patrickt know how things are. Looks like I get to keep my cobra a little longer. Also took a look inside the hole and the cam gear looked to be in good shape.
Seems you are failing to listen to those with EXPERIENCE in this area.

First up, your pictures show a gear that IS wearing significantly, since that is what ALL Bronze gears are designed for. Sacrificial wear to prevent wear on an expensive STEEL camshaft.

Can you not see the wear occurring on the driven flanks?

blykins, patrickt, and myself, plus a few others have given our personal professional views.

If that gear has done 1500 miles, I'll give it 5000 miles before you need to replace it. At least the engine will shut down from no spark WHEN the gear fails.

Gary
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:15 PM
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That gear is worn.
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Old 08-01-2019, 07:39 PM
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Hmmm, I wonder where those bronze shavings go. Oh well, that's what an oil filter is for, I suppose.
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Old 08-01-2019, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
That gear is worn.
+1^


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Old 08-01-2019, 08:19 PM
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Smile

that brings up another point we can discuss.


FL1HP oil filter Relief Valve Open (psi): 22 psi

FL1A oil filter Relief Valve Open (psi): 11-14 psi

how much of the oil is filtered each time it passes through the filter?

How many times would 5 qts of oil have to pass through the filter for all of it to be filtered at least one time?
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Old 08-02-2019, 07:58 AM
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testing testing testing
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Old 08-02-2019, 09:00 AM
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Thanks for sharing the oil filter video, Ed! I will never buy another Fram filter ever again - just pure junk!
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Old 08-02-2019, 09:28 AM
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U gets what you pays 4.
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Old 08-02-2019, 03:54 PM
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When will the engine rebuild thread be forthcoming?
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Old 08-03-2019, 02:09 AM
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To whom it may concern, comp cam says BRONZE GEAR, for hydraulic rollers. lots of people on this site hate them. Maybe I was wrong to say you were wrong ,I am not a pro but, I will continue to stay the course with the bronze . I will keep a eye on it and let others know . At least I do not have to adjust my valves all the time like the solid lifter guys . Also my cam gear looks brand new witch to me looks like the bronze is working like it should.I will say however it is a high wear item that should be closely watched.Comp cam does make a molenized gear but, I could not get much info .
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Old 08-03-2019, 04:59 AM
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I had this exact conversation with Tony and Lance at Craft Performance Engines when
building my FBB. They use Comp Cam billet hydraulic rollers paired with MSD in
all their crate engines.

The verdict based on numerous teardowns was, for street/strip use Melonite QPQ coated STEEL gear such as those available by MSD with billet steel hydraulic rollers.
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Old 08-03-2019, 06:38 AM
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You can lead a horse to water.

I don’t care what Comp Cams says. No way I’d see that kind of wear on a part and then stick it right back in. They’re not gonna pay for your damaged parts.

I don’t give advice based on whims. I give advice based on experience and probably more familiarity with manufacturers’ parts than they have themselves.
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Old 08-03-2019, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
You can lead a horse to water.

I don’t care what Comp Cams says. No way I’d see that kind of wear on a part and then stick it right back in. They’re not gonna pay for your damaged parts.

I don’t give advice based on whims. I give advice based on experience and probably more familiarity with manufacturers’ parts than they have themselves.

This is REAL good advice. You should take it seriously.

There is of course always the school of hard knocks. You graduate with essentially the same knowledge. It just costs more and hurts more.

All that remains for you to do now is chose your path.

Choose wisely, it profoundly affects what happens next ...


Ed
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Old 08-03-2019, 09:29 AM
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Hauss,

I too am in sort of the same situation as you.
408W with unknown internals.

While I was changing the intake I found I had a solid roller lifters, pointing to a Billet steel cam.

While experimenting with EFI awhile back (which I ditched) I came across a Timing hunting issue and discovered a lot of backlash in the Distributor rotor. Pulling the Dizzy I found a severely worn (knife edged) Bronze gear.

I didn't feel like pulling the water pump, Pulleys, Balancer, timing cover and timing gears to get the Part number off the cam though.

I contacted Comp Cams and Crower on alternatives to Bronze, such as Melonized Steel, or Composite. Both Tech lines recommended Bronze or Composite as the Cam was already broken in and could cause issues using the Hardened (Melonized)steel dizzy gear.

So I made the choice to stick with What I had. Figuring with Bronze if it made through the oil filter it's mucho better than steel.

My eventual goal is to swap out the Solid roller for a Hyd roller. Pricey though as I'll have to change Cam, lifters, springs, Pushrods.

Contrary to to some of the posts in the thread, there really aren't squirrels scrapping the bottom of the oil pan slinging Oil and Metal all over the engine.
The oil pump does suck from the bottom of the pan and goes directly into the filter. I actually feel a lot more comfortable having my Bronze Gear being chewed away VS my expensive Billet Cam sending steel to the bottom of the oil pan.

I feel you've been Dog-piled with quite a few Non-helpful responses in your request for information which is unfortunate. I do feel Blykins and Gaz64 knowledge can be trusted as they are professionals in their field having "been there 1st hand" & not amateurs.

https://www.onedirt.com/tech/engine/...compatibility/
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Old 08-03-2019, 10:53 AM
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I too respect the people you are talking about and also, believe in what they say.Sometimes they get a little crabby but, that is ok because they think I am not listening to them.I am pretty sure at some point, I will get tired of changing out that bronze gear and get the melonized one.For right now though I will stay with the bronze.
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Old 08-04-2019, 05:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hauss View Post
I am pretty sure at some point, I will get tired of changing out that bronze gear and get the melonized one.For right now though I will stay with the bronze.
I brought this up earlier, and it is the practical fact that you can only replace the gear once. This is because you have to drill a new roll pin hole when installing a new gear. Like Brent said, it is nearly impossible to line up the hole in the the new gear with the existing hole in the shaft. Even if you could, that does not guarantee that the gear positioning will be correct.
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