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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2019, 11:57 AM
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2019, 12:27 PM
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Maybe you have a bronze cam - can you get a pic up in there of the cam itself? Especially the areas that blykins mentioned.

Edit: This would do the trick: New Cool Tool - DeWalt DC410 Inspection Camera - Quick Review with Pics and Video

Last edited by patrickt; 08-01-2019 at 12:35 PM..
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Old 08-01-2019, 02:33 PM
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Sorry guys but, you are wrong ,at least in my case. I will say however, it is a msd bronze gear witch may be a little harder than others. Not sure but they claim it is in their advertising. I will continue to keep an eye on things and let you Mr.patrickt know how things are. Looks like I get to keep my cobra a little longer. Also took a look inside the hole and the cam gear looked to be in good shape.
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Old 08-01-2019, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hauss View Post
Sorry guys but, you are wrong ,at least in my case. I will say however, it is a msd bronze gear witch may be a little harder than others. Not sure but they claim it is in their advertising. I will continue to keep an eye on things and let you Mr.patrickt know how things are. Looks like I get to keep my cobra a little longer. Also took a look inside the hole and the cam gear looked to be in good shape.
Seems you are failing to listen to those with EXPERIENCE in this area.

First up, your pictures show a gear that IS wearing significantly, since that is what ALL Bronze gears are designed for. Sacrificial wear to prevent wear on an expensive STEEL camshaft.

Can you not see the wear occurring on the driven flanks?

blykins, patrickt, and myself, plus a few others have given our personal professional views.

If that gear has done 1500 miles, I'll give it 5000 miles before you need to replace it. At least the engine will shut down from no spark WHEN the gear fails.

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Last edited by Gaz64; 08-01-2019 at 10:14 PM..
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Old 08-01-2019, 05:15 PM
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That gear is worn.
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:39 PM
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Hmmm, I wonder where those bronze shavings go. Oh well, that's what an oil filter is for, I suppose.
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Old 08-01-2019, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
That gear is worn.
+1^


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Old 08-01-2019, 07:19 PM
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that brings up another point we can discuss.


FL1HP oil filter Relief Valve Open (psi): 22 psi

FL1A oil filter Relief Valve Open (psi): 11-14 psi

how much of the oil is filtered each time it passes through the filter?

How many times would 5 qts of oil have to pass through the filter for all of it to be filtered at least one time?
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Old 08-01-2019, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
that brings up another point we can discuss.


FL1HP oil filter Relief Valve Open (psi): 22 psi

FL1A oil filter Relief Valve Open (psi): 11-14 psi

how much of the oil is filtered each time it passes through the filter?

How many times would 5 qts of oil have to pass through the filter for all of it to be filtered at least one time?

Relatively easy answers;

Far less than you might expect and quite a few.

If you want full filtration then this is the filter you want, click here => Jomar Pro filter

Before you buy another Fram filter you ought to take a look at this 9 minute video. If you buy anything other than a WIX or a NAPA Gold — you deserve what you get and what happens to your engine.

Click here => Oil Filter Comparison


Ed
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Old 08-02-2019, 06:58 AM
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testing testing testing
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Old 08-02-2019, 08:00 AM
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Thanks for sharing the oil filter video, Ed! I will never buy another Fram filter ever again - just pure junk!
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Old 08-02-2019, 08:28 AM
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U gets what you pays 4.
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Old 08-02-2019, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eschaider View Post

If you want full filtration then this is the filter you want, click here => Jomar Pro filter
... and who makes the Jomar filters? I am told Baldwin does, and they make the Moroso filters as well (which is what I have always used). At least, that's what I've been told.
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Old 08-02-2019, 02:54 PM
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When will the engine rebuild thread be forthcoming?
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Old 08-02-2019, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
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... and who makes the Jomar filters? I am told Baldwin does, and they make the Moroso filters as well (which is what I have always used). At least, that's what I've been told.

I honestly don't know Patrickt. You could very well be correct.

Irrespective of who builds them, I would not use them as a daily driver sort of filter. They are excellent for picking up those small particulate contaminants that we all miss during assembly. After a short period of time I change them out for a WIX. They are only a last effort to insure internal cleanliness incase we/I inadvertently missed something.

Without the internal bypass if you use the filter for an extended period of time and it plugs up with contaminent materials you could starve mains, rods and other expensive pieces of the oiling they need to survive.


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Old 08-03-2019, 01:09 AM
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To whom it may concern, comp cam says BRONZE GEAR, for hydraulic rollers. lots of people on this site hate them. Maybe I was wrong to say you were wrong ,I am not a pro but, I will continue to stay the course with the bronze . I will keep a eye on it and let others know . At least I do not have to adjust my valves all the time like the solid lifter guys . Also my cam gear looks brand new witch to me looks like the bronze is working like it should.I will say however it is a high wear item that should be closely watched.Comp cam does make a molenized gear but, I could not get much info .
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Old 08-03-2019, 03:59 AM
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I had this exact conversation with Tony and Lance at Craft Performance Engines when
building my FBB. They use Comp Cam billet hydraulic rollers paired with MSD in
all their crate engines.

The verdict based on numerous teardowns was, for street/strip use Melonite QPQ coated STEEL gear such as those available by MSD with billet steel hydraulic rollers.
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Old 08-03-2019, 05:38 AM
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You can lead a horse to water.

I don’t care what Comp Cams says. No way I’d see that kind of wear on a part and then stick it right back in. They’re not gonna pay for your damaged parts.

I don’t give advice based on whims. I give advice based on experience and probably more familiarity with manufacturers’ parts than they have themselves.
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Last edited by blykins; 08-03-2019 at 05:42 AM..
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Old 08-03-2019, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eschaider View Post
Relatively easy answers;

Far less than you might expect and quite a few.

If you want full filtration then this is the filter you want, click here => Jomar Pro filter

Before you buy another Fram filter you ought to take a look at this 9 minute video. If you buy anything other than a WIX or a NAPA Gold — you deserve what you get and what happens to your engine.

Click here => Oil Filter Comparison


Ed
Take everything with a grain of salt. Although the Fram filter is garbage, he is comparing a Napa Gold filter with a Purolator standard filter. Not exactly apples to oranges. He should have used a Napa Silver filter as it is a lot more equal to the Purolator cheapie line, or used a Purolator PureOne filter, which is their top filter for standard use.

Years ago when I repaired cars, the boss used to use these Grease Monkey filters. They were cheap. We opened one up and there were shreds of newspaper used in the filtering media. You could still read the writing. They all went in the trash and we switched to ACDelco filters, which are/were rated pretty high at the time.
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Old 08-03-2019, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
that brings up another point we can discuss.


FL1HP oil filter Relief Valve Open (psi): 22 psi

FL1A oil filter Relief Valve Open (psi): 11-14 psi

how much of the oil is filtered each time it passes through the filter?

How many times would 5 qts of oil have to pass through the filter for all of it to be filtered at least one time?
Those pressures you list are differential pressures between the inlet and filter outlet, not your regular oil pressure. They are supposed to relieve if your filter becomes clogged. That being said, you will filter 100% of the oil as long as your oil filter doesn't become clogged (to the point of your listed differential pressures).
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