bronze gears

[hauss]

I Installed a bronze gear on my msd, because it was recommended to me by a friend, who races mustangs and has been around for a while. I have roller rockers and lifters, and it is a stroker motor. He said it was a lot less work to change a distributor gear, than a camshaft. Just wandering what others think because, I have read other post that say put a steal gear in the distributor.

[HighPlainsDrifter]

Hi,
bronze gears are for race engines that get torn down every month and changed out. They don't last in a street car and will fail and leave you stranded with metal shavings in your engine.

Perry

[Gaz64]

Get a steel gear to match, other wise you will need to inspect the bronze gear every few thousand miles. High volume oil pumps, and high oil pressure reduce the gear life.

Gary

[hauss]

Ok now for the real question if not sure what cam is made of what gear would be the safest to install.Keep in mind I do not mind working on my car if it will make it last.I already change oil every 3 months or 2000 miles. yes I know that is crazy but it helps me sleep at night. Also it does see 6200 rpms quite often.For some reason I just can not help it.

[Sawdust]

If you want to be safe find out what your camshaft manufacturer recommends

[Karl Bebout]

I went with a composit(aka,plastic) hear and have not had an issue. My hydraulic roller cam is not very radical, (Webers)
Thoughts appreciated. Am I looking for trouble?

[blykins]

No bronze, no polymer, no plastic.

This is really easy....if it’s a cast iron core camshaft, use a cast iron gear. If it’s a steel core cam, use a steel gear.

The others will wear in short order.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by hauss

I Installed a bronze gear on my msd, because it was recommended to me by a friend, who races mustangs and has been around for a while. I have roller rockers and lifters, and it is a stroker motor. He said it was a lot less work to change a distributor gear, than a camshaft. Just wandering what others think because, I have read other post that say put a steal gear in the distributor.

Now reading your opening again, I see no mention of the camshaft material.
So your friend recommended a bronze gear WITHOUT knowing what the camshaft is made of?

Steel camshaft, steel or bronze gear. Steel is the best choice.

Cast iron camshaft flat tappet, cast distributor gear.

Gary

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

So your friend recommended a bronze gear WITHOUT knowing what the camshaft is made of?

That's like the cobbler who always recommends wing tips. Of course, he also only sells wing tips....

[hauss]

He was trying to be safe and thought it would be a better to change a bronze gear than a worn camshaft gear. I am not saying this was the best way to go . I am saying not knowing the material the cam is what is the best way to go.Only because I have read on this site that bronze gears or not good .

[blykins]

You can tell by looking at the camshaft if it's iron or billet. If you have the cam card you can also tell by the serial number in most cases.

For instance, in Comp Cams lingo, a -9 or a -11 on the end of the cam part number indicates a steel core.

[Anthony]

Originally Posted by hauss

Ok now for the real question if not sure what cam is made of what gear would be the safest to install.Keep in mind I do not mind working on my car if it will make it last.I already change oil every 3 months or 2000 miles. yes I know that is crazy but it helps me sleep at night. Also it does see 6200 rpms quite often.For some reason I just can not help it.

With a roller camshaft, I bet your cam is steel.
With each oil change, you can pull the distributor, and check the gear wear, and replace as necessary.

[hauss]

I am going to stay with the bronze and check on it every 6 months The car is race car that just dosen"t get used everyday or on a track very often

[HighPlainsDrifter]

Hi,
your cam gear also turns the oil pump. So if you have a high volume pump and or 20/50 oil in the engine the stress is huge on the cam gear. I have seen a gear fail on start up when cold, the owner just revved the engine and that was it with thick oil.
Perry

[hauss]

I do not know if it is billet, or not so based on that I will keep the bronze gear. I also use 15/40 and let engine warm before I drive it.The oil arguement is one that can go on forever so I do not wish to go down that road let me just say I did my research and for me that was the best option. My oil pressure readings are always perfect no mater the temp even idle pressure stays right were it should.

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by hauss

I am going to stay with the bronze and check on it every 6 months The car is race car that just dosen"t get used everyday or on a track very often

To run bronze on anything but a pure race car is to unnecessarily tempt fate. Shoot for the happy ending by not using bronze. The name of the ending says it all ...


Ed

[Gaz64]

I have a paperweight bronze gear that is "75%" worn with the gear tips worn to almost knife edges.
How long before the teeth would break off? Could have been the next engine start.

I don't use bronze any more, on anything.

Why do transmissions have steel gears against steel gears?

Gary

[patrickt]

hauss - why would you put your engine at risk over a fifteen minute, $75 part, swap out?

[Dwight]

hauss let us know how much it cost to replace the bearings and flush all bronze filings out of the oil passages in the block. And if you have rubber hoses for a remote oil filter you will have to replace them and flush the cooler. Hope you can get all that crap out of your motor.

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by patrickt

hauss - why would you put your engine at risk over a fifteen minute, $75 part, swap out?

I'd bet you could buy just the steel or cast iron gear for less than or equal to the price a five quart jug of oil at Wally World ...


Ed