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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2020, 10:29 AM
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Default Looking for repair shop

I'm in Tacoma Wa. I need someone to redo my windshield and install convertible top and side curtains. The windshield is broken again and at the wrong angle for side curtains and convertible top to work. I need help. not enough room and confidence. I know this is going to cost me. but need someone that can and will do this.
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Old 03-05-2020, 07:15 PM
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It's me again. Last time I had a likely repairer come over only to be discounted because I didn't just agree to go with him then and was scheduled out . I was going to go with another shop . I brought my car down and was told time and materials I get that and am ready, sometime in the spring. They didn't take any contact information. I waited till January and wrote a letter with all my contact information, so that when things opened up, only to find the main guy was hospitalized. So I called today March 5th now they are booked up through end of this year. I was advised to find someone else to work on my car My car is an older fiberglass replica, not an expensive original , is the reasoning I believe. So I'm at a loss for where to go next. My garage is small. I can't get both doors open. I can't twist in and out like I used to, and not confident in my self getting everything right the first time. there is something wrong with the mounting for the windshield it breaks windshields. this is the second windshield and it happened the next day it was replaced. The windshield is leaned back and will not work with the side curtain and convertible top. I'm willing to pay money. then there are other points to over come. I know I'm not at the front of the line but all the time I've waited was for nothing. I'll get in another line, I get that. I know it probably won't be just down my street. How far will I have to go?
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Old 03-06-2020, 07:25 AM
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Hi Mike,

One of the issues as you know is local shops are turning nice jobs & work away, they are in constant demand. So a relatively undefined, ad hoc amount and type of work like this is challenging and not necessarily as attrative for scheduling in place of the next larger project (drivetrain, paint job, restoration, etc.) knocking at the door that better supports the shops operating needs over time. It seems those qualified for such work and reputable, by nature have that scenario at play ongoing, which isn't bad, but doesn't resolve your needs.

I still have your contact info from prior PM's. I'd like to come see it in person and get certain photos. I have another idea with a shop up north that may be able to do some of the time consuming steps in resolving your current welded in windshield situation, at a viable cost. It's a longshot, but may end up working in the situation.

While I'm fairly busy this weekend, I'd like to stop by to take a look. Are you available Sat or Sun? I'm about a half hour from you. We can coordinate something via private message.

By the way, I too just had my EM widshield mounting sorted. I notice in your profile photos you have a center tensioner involved, I don't know your screw length situation, and clearly it seems the frame mounting is off.

I am also about to fit my soft top for the first time. I seem to have limited door hardware for that as well, yet am not sure if the top's frame/construction allows it to somehow work. I'd like to view your top and doors and as I work mine to a final install, I can share my experience as may relate to your setup. My experience/solution development there may help to be able to do yours similarly more efficiently.

Thanks, Brent

Last edited by EM-0785; 03-06-2020 at 10:16 AM.. Reason: Spelling
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Old 03-06-2020, 02:35 PM
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Default I'm here

I'm here all day Saturday and Sunday land line is 253-474-7254 with answering machine for more information. more details, also I check my email frequently on my PC, I'll give more info in person

mikes427@net-venture.com
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Last edited by Michael C Henry; 03-06-2020 at 02:45 PM..
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Old 03-07-2020, 08:14 AM
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I'm in San Marcos Ca. I could definitely do all that ...but getting the car here....?? And it shouldn't take more than a day or two. That's assuming you have all the top parts..
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Old 03-15-2020, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael C Henry View Post
It's me again. Last time I had a likely repairer come over only to be discounted because I didn't just agree to go with him then and was scheduled out . I was going to go with another shop . I brought my car down and was told time and materials I get that and am ready, sometime in the spring. They didn't take any contact information. I waited till January and wrote a letter with all my contact information, so that when things opened up, only to find the main guy was hospitalized. So I called today March 5th now they are booked up through end of this year. I was advised to find someone else to work on my car My car is an older fiberglass replica, not an expensive original , is the reasoning I believe. So I'm at a loss for where to go next. My garage is small. I can't get both doors open. I can't twist in and out like I used to, and not confident in my self getting everything right the first time. there is something wrong with the mounting for the windshield it breaks windshields. this is the second windshield and it happened the next day it was replaced. The windshield is leaned back and will not work with the side curtain and convertible top. I'm willing to pay money. then there are other points to over come. I know I'm not at the front of the line but all the time I've waited was for nothing. I'll get in another line, I get that. I know it probably won't be just down my street. How far will I have to go?
Hey Mike,

Good to meet you the other day…

I located several older EM diagrams for my top. While the original purchase invoice from 1985 had a soft top, another was bought from EM in 2004 (I assume that’s the one I have now). I have several soft top installation diagrams from EM dated between 1988-2004, most or all likely intended for my current top. The diagrams reflect a “Type II Pattern”.

While I’ll gladly share any of these with you, my thinking is as follows. Did the top you have in the box with EM label, come with EM install instructions (I assume)? If not, it’s probably wise to contact Tom at EM in Texas and try to obtain instructions specific for your top, in case it’s different. I bought some parts from EM recently and spoke at length with Tom. He delivered, and was very helpful with several questions I had.

Regardless, I assume you need to get your windshield mounting/placement sorted first. Per my diagrams, the measurements for the top are based off the rearward edge of the windshield frame’s flat downward mounting arms.

The shop we visited should be able to help you with all that. Our local TommyRot introduced me to this shop and had mentioned them in a prior post. Now you've met them, and it only helps they are moving this month 5 minutes from you (versus 10-12 minutes currently!).

They expressed positivity about helping you with this afterward. If you have any issues getting scheduled and/or want me to inquire, advocate for, or interface in communicating with them at any point, I’d be happy to, just let me know.

If you can accomplish this I think you’ll be happy with the EM top. I'd say Everett-Morrison did it right (even if via a top vendor)! The shop just fitted my soft top for the first time (on pre-existing hardware) and sent the below photos. They say it fits great and has a very aggressive look, which they actually now prefer after seeing it. The color combination works well…if only James Bond had driven a Cobra! We just expanded the driving season!

We’re going to drive a season without the side curtains and see how it goes. That should help with sun and the many days here with a 'chance' of showers. We like the clean, open look and not messing with the doors. We later have the option of drilling for the two ferrules in each door, per the instructions, and adding the side curtains (which do look nicely done by design also).

Best of luck, talk to you soon! Brent

(PS: As Lou1119 adeptly pointed out on another soft top post, we’ll need to be extra careful now to avoid side pipe burns entering/exiting the car. Fortunately, we’re not too tall. The other consideration for us is sun exposure. When a recently departed friend had heard I was getting a Cobra (my lifelong dream) he said, well what about your skin cancer (melanoma) and an open cockpit car? Without hesitation I said with matter of fact style…”The Cobra rules, I’ll just have to work that out.” He smiled and nodded assuredly, as a good friend of like mind, he completely understood. So, this is getting it to work for me!)






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Last edited by EM-0785; 03-15-2020 at 06:01 PM.. Reason: Add PS
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Old 03-16-2020, 04:19 PM
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I went through a series of emails and tests to get my email to reach their email. They have responded that they are moving when not working in their present shop and would contact me when they were moved and ready. I said I was more than happy to have them stop by and view it for them selves but I didn't get a bite. I need to get the car out and get up in the attack to see if I already have another windshield , I threatened to but may not have followed through when the present windshield was installed and promptly started breaking.
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Last edited by Michael C Henry; 03-16-2020 at 04:25 PM..
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Old 03-16-2020, 04:37 PM
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I broke a windshield year before last. With the help of this forum, I singled out Shell Valley. They are the original supplier of E-M windshields. Buy the whole kit for ~$800. You will have to cut the side mounts to length and bolt the whole unit in with 4 bolts. My son and I did it in about 45 minutes. They were great to work with and they built and shipped the windshield in about a week!

Here's the link. https://www.shellvalley.com/index.cf...=159&mode=prod
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Old 03-16-2020, 05:01 PM
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Default I bought this windsheild glass only several years ago

I bought this windshield ( glass only) from them several years ago and waited a couple of years to get it installed and it started cracking the next day while sitting in the garage. Some chrome is peeling so a whole assembly sounds great, if I don't have another in my attic. I need to get the car out to access the attic.
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Old 03-17-2020, 08:46 AM
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Michael,
Where exactly on the windshield are the cracks emanating from? If cracks are starting from the top frame where the visor hardware attaches, there is a known problem with slightly long machine screws contacting the edge of the glass and causing cracks to start. just a thought.
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Old 03-18-2020, 06:24 PM
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Some of the cracks cross near the visor tab screws. If I where to shorten those screws or add a SS washer? or comb of both?
Any body used a quick disconnect steering wheel coupler? Knees and hip not like twenty years ago.
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Old 03-18-2020, 07:07 PM
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Mike,

If you like I can post some of the photos I got of your windshield and mount points for the experts here to weight in on as you await the shop to assist. I'll only post them with your ok! Brent
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Old 03-18-2020, 11:38 PM
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Sure If it is the screws ? How much should they be shortened?
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Old 03-19-2020, 04:17 AM
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I would only suspect the screws to be the problem if the cracks are coming out from under the top frame where the attach hardware is located. If the cracks are running across or near the hardware location, but not going up under the frame, the cracks are not likely being caused by contact with the screws. Post a picture or two, and let's take a look.

Another thing to consider is the side mounts holding the windshield in place. If the mounts were not properly shimmed to the steel support hoop behind the instrument panel, that would surely induce torque in the windshield that would cause it to crack. I know from experience on my own E-M and Tom Wells' E-M that the thickness of the shims required is significant (1/2" or more).

Last edited by Mike I; 03-19-2020 at 04:34 AM..
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Old 03-19-2020, 06:48 AM
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I would only suspect the screws to be the problem if the cracks are coming out from under the top frame where the attach hardware is located. If the cracks are running across or near the hardware location, but not going up under the frame, the cracks are not likely being caused by contact with the screws. Post a picture or two, and let's take a look.

Another thing to consider is the side mounts holding the windshield in place. If the mounts were not properly shimmed to the steel support hoop behind the instrument panel, that would surely induce torque in the windshield that would cause it to crack. I know from experience on my own E-M and Tom Wells' E-M that the thickness of the shims required is significant (1/2" or more).
Mike I,

The mounting/shimming seemed likely a contributor if not main contributor even if other issues like typical screw length cracks are involved. Mike shared with me that his windshield, as originally mounted was like 3/4" off center.

He'd worked toward remedying that by moving the passenger windshield frame down leg to the other side of it's under dash mount with a shim. It still seems likely that is a contributing cause. Perhaps the frame bent with prior off center mounting due to bolt torque down. The entire frame itself seemed a bit torqued to me, possibly also contributed by the extend/nature of the lean back (possibly somewhat inconsistent per side as well).

Would you or Tom W. have photos of your underdash windshield frame mountings for reference. Also, do you know if the shim thickness and location(s) are typical of your arrangements, or commonly varied significantly as needed within the same model/era as Mike's EM?

Thanks, Brent

Last edited by EM-0785; 03-19-2020 at 06:51 AM.. Reason: Added sentence
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Old 03-19-2020, 06:57 AM
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@Michael C. Henry, as Rob (Snake Charmer) said last year, when we stopped by to look at your car, since this windshield is welded in, the correct way to fix it, is to remove the complete assy. and start over, with it bolted in correctly . (Rule Garage) that Brent brought you to, said they can do the same job, as soon as they move to their new shop, which is right down the road from your house. They will contact you, as soon as they move. I've had work done on my 289 car there, and was very pleased with their work, took Exc. care of the car while under their watch. As we & they told you, any work on these cars is not cheap, but it will be done right. Good Luck. P.S. we offered you a tour of Rob's shop, like you asked, but you never set up a appt.
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Old 03-19-2020, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by EM-0785 View Post
Mike I,

The mounting/shimming seemed likely a contributor if not main contributor even if other issues like typical screw length cracks are involved. Mike shared with me that his windshield, as originally mounted was like 3/4" off center.

He'd worked toward remedying that by moving the passenger windshield frame down leg to the other side of it's under dash mount with a shim. It still seems likely that is a contributing cause. Perhaps the frame bent with prior off center mounting due to bolt torque down. The entire frame itself seemed a bit torqued to me, possibly also contributed by the extend/nature of the lean back (possibly somewhat inconsistent per side as well).

Would you or Tom W. have photos of your underdash windshield frame mountings for reference. Also, do you know if the shim thickness and location(s) are typical of your arrangements, or commonly varied significantly as needed within the same model/era as Mike's EM?

Thanks, Brent
Sounds very plausible Brent, that certainly would cause the glass to crack. I don't have any photos handy. Difficult spot to work in, let alone photograph, but I'll give it a try later today on my car.
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Old 03-19-2020, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Alfa02 View Post
@Michael C. Henry, as Rob (Snake Charmer) said last year, when we stopped by to look at your car, since this windshield is welded in, the correct way to fix it, is to remove the complete assy. and start over, with it bolted in correctly . (Rule Garage) that Brent brought you to, said they can do the same job, as soon as they move to their new shop, which is right down the road from your house. They will contact you, as soon as they move. I've had work done on my 289 car there, and was very pleased with their work, took Exc. care of the car while under their watch. As we & they told you, any work on these cars is not cheap, but it will be done right. Good Luck. P.S. we offered you a tour of Rob's shop, like you asked, but you never set up a appt.
Seems to me Rule Garage may be the best option to have it properly resolved.

Btw, not clear to me how the windshield frame (chromed brass) could have been welded to the mild steel hoop. Did you mean brazed?

Last edited by Mike I; 03-19-2020 at 08:55 AM..
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Old 03-19-2020, 09:18 AM
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@Mike I, it look's like tabs as been welded into the cowl, for the windshield to slip into, the first owner (Not Michael C. Henry) did this to get the rake, for use at the race track. Brent & I have discussed that the body may not be a E-M body (Thinnest fiberglass body I've every seen), nothing is in common with the body Brent's car has. Even that being said, The windshield is so tweeted the only way to go, is to start from square one.
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Old 03-19-2020, 10:53 AM
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Alfa,

"Thinnest fiberglass body" is definitely not synonymous with E-M...I think my E-M body weighs something like 600 lbs all up...not what you'd call svelte.

Michael's car sure sounds like a conglomeration of parts and non-standard installation methods. Not an easy thing to simply restore to original design, so yes, starting from square one makes perfect sense.
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