Quote:
Originally Posted by 767Jockey
Thanks, Ed. I appreciate all the info you've sent along the way on both this and the quick disconnect hub as well. What method do you use to get all the old oil out of the cooler and lines when you change your oil?
Doug
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The lines are easier than the cooler, Doug. For lines it is just a disconnect and drain routine without any special washing. So far (knock on wood) I haven't had an engine bearing failure so I haven't had any particulate matter to clean out.
I have thought about the problem however. My current thinking is I would probably just buy another SetRab cooler if that happened. Brand new they are about $130 +/- so the price is less than the aggravation to clean.
The other real issue is even when the fluid coming out looks clean there could still be particulate matter lodged in the cooler somewhere that would naturally (for me) loosen up when I am farthest from home and summarily kill an otherwise pristine engine. That's usually my kind of luck so I go towards the conservative solutions. Other guys can play egg toss with a live grenade all day long and nothing happens.
The lines are a little easier. If I suspect particulate matter a good washout in the small parts washer I think would clean everything up with modest effort.
Just for changing from synthetic to Dino grade break-in oil, in an 8 or 10 quart system, after draining the lines I suspect the small amount of residual synthetic oil on the hose liner wall may well not be a significant issue in the break-in / ring seating process.
The compression rings like the repeated loading and unloading that a stop and go sort of operation provides for a good seating. It is worthwhile remembering that a brand new off the show room floor car gets a very good ring seating just from an uninformed owner driving it around town in a very proletariate fashion — without any coaching from the dealer other than maybe no faster than XX mph for the first XX miles.
A good Dino oil, a flushed out oil cooler and lines, and some proletariate around town occasional highway driving like you might do for a new car out of a dealership will probably do an excellent job of seating the rings. Worthwhile commenting on is the fact you may use a little more than a quart per thousand miles for the first month or so even after a successful compression ring(s) break-in and then later when the oil rings finally come in, the oil consumption dries right up.
The hard chrome (I think) facing on the oil rails make them more difficult but far from impossible to seat in a reasonably short period of time.
Ed
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