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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2010, 12:45 PM
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Default Need Brake Help

I'm totaly lost. I have the very same setup as JerryW on this site. New master cylinder that has been bench bled. Also put it on the car and hooked up the bench bleeder and fluid moves fine. My problem is I can't get fluid to the calipers. I've had it at the calipers before, but still had a soft pedal. So I bled the master again. The more I do the worse it gets. This one thing is keeping me from the first drive. Please make suggestion, I'm open to anything. Next step is to take it to the mechanic shop. I have struggled with this for more that a month now.

What type of master cylinder did you guys with manual brakes use, I think I'm going to switch.

Thanks

Last edited by jbcobra67; 05-29-2010 at 02:11 PM..
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2010, 09:01 PM
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Let each caliper gravity-bleed, one at a time. Start with rr, then lr, rf then lf. Make sure the master has pleny of fluid.
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Old 05-30-2010, 08:09 AM
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If there isn't anything mechanically wrong (connections/pressure valve/etc) you just may have an air lock. You can try using a Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit - HarborFreight ~ $25

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...mpaign=buylink

Good Luck - PJ
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Old 05-30-2010, 08:23 AM
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Had a problem a lot like you describe. When I installed my brake system the first time around, all new parts, the system worked fine. Car sat for quite a while before I got back to working on it . One day I noticed a drop of oil on the rear axle housing. Further examination proved to be brake oil. Tightened things up and went to re bleed the caliper. Couldnt get it no matter what. Finally tore everything out back to the master cylinder. Finally discovered that one of the plunger seals in the master cylinder was not quite doing its job.

Long story short, put in another new master cylinder, reconnected the lines, bleed the system and a week later I had brakes again.

Aaron

Last edited by AMiller; 05-30-2010 at 09:06 AM..
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Old 05-30-2010, 08:31 AM
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I got my plastic brake bleeder at Autozone, ~$35? The Harbor Freight looks better.

Assuming your mc is not leaking and if you get all the air out and it still feels soft ...

I had the opposite problem. took an 800# gorilla to stop the car. Changed to a smaller (I think) mc and much better. (Check for the correct stroke length). Using Wilwood on Cobra, and Hayes on Daytona.

Lots of good info on this site ...
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Old 05-30-2010, 12:12 PM
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Default brakes

Thanks for the responses. I have a vacuum pump. I tried the gravity type, let it set overnight and not one drop of fluid. It will not pull the fluid to the calipers. I disconnected all lines and made sure I don't have a blockage, all ok. One thing I noticed. I did the bench bleed in the car and did not have fluid coming from the front port, only the rear. I then hooked the lines back to the rear port and cycled the master again and then had fluid coming from the front port. After all lines are reconnected, I get no flow of fluid to the calipers. I'm going to the junk yard today and look at a escort (that's what the systems comes from) and see how the lines hook up. It has 4 ports on the master. I have attached a photo of a system just like mine. Thanks for your help. Still trying, not going to let it win. My wife says think positive. She is great, her left leg is going to be like a linebackers leg when I fix this thing.

Joey
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:07 PM
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Default Brakes

I think I'm on to something. Went to Pull-a-part and looked at a escort brake system. The two bottom ports run to the rear brakes and the two top ports run to the front calipers. I have a project for Memorial Day and well see what happens.

Thanks for all the ideas you guys gave.

Joey
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Old 06-07-2010, 02:33 PM
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Just to let everyone know, I switched to a manual master cylinder. 76 corvette per the set up of RDC767. Words great. Part of the problem was a bad proportion valve that came with the A&C Kit. I'll put one back in line if I need it. Thanks for all the tips, I did try them all. I'm still having clutch problems. The slave is not engaging enough to release the clutch. I'm going to move the mount closer to the trans and hope to get more movement on the fork.

Thanks
Joey
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Old 06-08-2010, 06:04 PM
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Before you move the mount on the trans, try to get a bit more travel out of the piston in the master cylinder. The clutch pedal should be attached to a threaded rod going into the M/C. I had the same problem and screwed around with the slave stroke, then tried to get a bit more stroke out of the M/C. Problem solved, the clutch works so smoothly, don't know why I ever had a cable in it before.
Jim
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:51 PM
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I did get all I could out of the master. Still same problem. Are you using the slave and master suggested by A&C?

Thanks
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:21 PM
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jbcobra,
If your pedal ratio is set for the booster you may need to change it to work the manual mc. I recently worked this out in my car where my pedal ratio was about 3.5 to 1 and I have the manual brakes. I increased it to a little over 6 to 1 which is a huge improvement but 7 to 1 is ideal. Measure the length of your brake pedal pivot to foot pad, then measure from the pivot to the mc rod, then divide the numbers to get the ratio. Or do a search on pedal ratio and you should find all kinds of helpful info.

John
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Old 06-09-2010, 09:39 AM
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Joey,
I am using the pedal box made by pete Clark, I think Joe is selling one very close to it.
The pedal box has a Corvette Brake Master Cylinder and a Wilwood 3/4" M/C for the clutch pedal. When I had my problem I thought I needed a bigger M/C like a 1", even bought it but I adjusted the nut on the threaded puch rod to get more travel and it worked.
On the slave cylinder I have the one from Autoworks International in CA. Their website is www.autoworksracing.com the kit is the lower clutch kit for a T5. It mounts up very easily and works great no complaints. It was almost $300 with shipping back in '05.
I would recommend it.
Good Luck.
Jim
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