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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2007, 07:21 AM
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Default Parts with the kit?

I'm getting ready to order an A&C cobra from Sonny. I'm getting the basic kit. What parts would you buy with the kit and what would you buy in the aftermarket parts.

I think I am going to get the fuel tank, headers , side pipes , rear link arms from A&C.

I 've gone through this forum a few time looking to see what most have done and have some ideas.

Ron
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2007, 09:51 AM
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I bought the rolling chassis, gas tank, side pipe, headers. When I picked up the body I got the roll bar, windshield, lights and maybe a few other incidentals.

Aftermarket I got steering, seats, gauges, rug, quickjacks, wiring, windwings, mirror and alot more.

Check my build site for some in depth info on my build, step by step.

http://www.priveye.com/cobra.htm

Roscoe
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2007, 06:18 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Antique & Collectable 302, C-4,Ford 9 inch
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First I would like to commend you on such a resourceful question. I wish I had have thought to post this question before I built mine. Because some parts from A&C I did not like. I think it depends on your skill level. I ordered:

Basic Kit
Rolling chassis parts
gas tank
headers and exhaust
Gel Coat
Posi rearend
Radiator
roll bar


Gas tank is 15 gallons, sort of small, but you can not see it sticking out from under the rear like other kits. i like it.

It took me a weekend to install the rolling chassis parts and it saved me $500. This can be difficult, but I had experienced help when I built the chasssis, it helps to have spring compressors.

I wish I had not ordered the radiator, there are better ones out there. I also used carpet from a local installer. Steering, rims, bumpers, and wiring harness from other sources. I think you can save some money if you buy some of these things form other sources.

There might be better sources for the headers and exhaust, I just did not have the experience or sources.

The gauges are okay they are Stewart Warner. But the instructions suck, that come from Stewart Warner. Not that gauges are that hard to install, but the instructions are pretty useless. Sonny may give you a discount if you ask not to include some items that come in the basic kit. Good luck with your build. Hope to see some pictures when you get started. I think that you will find this forum helpful, it was for me. I am a real neophyte when it comes to automotive building. Took me over two years to build my kit, I was very inexperienced. I posted a bunch of questions here at the forum, there are many talented mechanics and craftsman here willing to share and it helped me immensely. Roscoe was one of the frequent contributers. Check out the pictures and postings in the A & C forum, i bet it will help.

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Old 04-20-2007, 09:55 PM
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Thanks Roscoe and Jerry

I 've notice most of the builders like to get parts from differect sources. I've gotten various cataloges from summit, Jeggs and speedwaymart.

Thanks for the tip on the insturments. I like to get a different set.

From what I read the front end is a mustang 2? I like to get upgraded brakes larger discs or name brand like wildwoods. Are power brakes a must on these cars or can I go with the wildwood non powered master cylinders?

What type of rack pinion do I need. Mustang 2 ?

I plan on getting the gel coated color and eventual getting it clear coated to give it a good shine.

If anybody has any tips on headers and side pipes that fit better I like to know.

Thanks again
Ron
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Old 04-21-2007, 05:53 AM
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Ron,

I wish I had disc all around. And I wish I had bigger rotors. It is easy now for me to look back and know what I would change. I think many guys run with out power brakes, but you have to set it up properly. That is beyond my skill level. I put in power brakes. When you get to that point I can probably find the NAPA part number of the booster and mastercylinder I used. Mine fits in the engine compartment without any cutting of the fenderwell.

The radiator bracket from A & C could be improved. I may just change mine some day.

The gel coat looks great. But scrutinize it from every angle and up close when you pick it up. Most guys are pleased. I had a few flaws that had to be fixed, and I did not see them until my painter/friend pointed them out after I took the body away. Joe would have made the situation right, but it would have cost me more to have the body transported back to Buffalo, then have my friend fix the flaws. Look around especially near the trunk cut-outs and engine bay cut-outs. These are seperate molded pieces that are attached to the body. I found flaws/visible seams there.

I had mine striped and clear coated.

Have fun. Plan carefully. I had a blast during the build. Sometimes you will get frustrated. But when you are done it is worth it. Tell you a little story:

Took my Cobra to a real "small town" car show. A guy pulls in next to me with a very nice 1968 corvette. He has a nice car, and he knows it. Before people show up he tells me how proud of the awards his car wins at "corvette events" and rightly so because it was nice. Anyway, he is all smug and pretty confident at this small show. He knows that I have a replica, and he has an original numbers correct vette. People start showing up and looking at the cars.
None of the locals were paying attention to his vette. At one time I had so many people looking at the Cobra and taking pictures he had to move his chair. Now I am not claiming that this was because of my craftsmanship, but it was because it was a Cobra!
He got so frustrated/jealous that he left his car not long after after people started showing up, no one was looking at his vette or asking him questions. I was talking to people so much during the show I barely had time to use the bathroom.

I won Mayor's Choice!

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Last edited by jerry w; 04-21-2007 at 06:05 AM..
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Old 04-21-2007, 07:02 AM
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Get all the catalogs you can. Some other good ones are Racer Parts Wholesale, Chassis Shop and Pegasus Racing.

As I said, I got the rolling chassis from A&C. The rear discs are Ford Explorer 11". The fronts are 11" Granada rotors. I upgraded the front calipers to Outlaw (a Wilwood look alike) 4 piston. You do not need power brakes on these cars. They only weight in at around 2400 lbs. With a good brake setup you should have no problems.

After 6 years I replaced the supplied rack & pinion with a Flaming River.

Get the headers and sidepipes from A&C. These parts are made for the chassis/body setup. Actually they are not bad quality.

Remember, do not look at it as building a car. You will go nuts. Look at it in sections: Brake system, electrical, drivetrain, etc. If you work with small projects at a time it is much more managable.

Roscoe
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Old 04-23-2007, 12:30 PM
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Congrats on your choice for AC. It will be two years this July since i bought mine and i tell you, no regrets. I bought the kit valued at under 11000 us. The kit comes with so much that you will be surprized. You will find though that you will need the whole kit within a certiain amount of time to get to the stage of mounting the body on the car. Reason is that the Footbox (pedal box) comes with the last stage of the kit.
My body was just black because i planned on painting it. Thats one regret. Now i am going to drive it for a couple of years first before painting it to just make sure that no new stress cracks show up. The black looks ok but there are scratches from the build so far and many imperfection on the body (very little ones). Joe is awsome with Tech help so no worries.
The items that i bought outside the kit and not from AC were
Rad, rack and pinion, rear gears,rear drums brake and rear assemblies, fr brakes,front spindles, Steering column, steering yokes and DD shaft, lots of stuff from cobra accesories (finishline). The electrical kit i bought from AC but you can buy it cheaper else where. Pipes and headers i got from AC and thier great and the price is comparable. Watch out for the taillights and flashers from AC. I still had to get theses little connectors that attach the wires. When you pick up the lights, if they have wires coming out the ends then they are ok. But if not ask if he has ones with wires or the little connectors themselfs. Driverside door is a little thinner then the passengers side door. I installed the hinges on the passengers side first and then on the first driverside door i punched through.
Awsome kit. Hope to have mine on the road by June 17 for a small home style car show.

Good luck.
Automan
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Old 04-23-2007, 04:08 PM
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Automan, Roscoe, Jerry

Thanks a ton. Made the call to Sonny today. He said it should be ready to be picked up by the end of July. I got the gel coat finish. I'll have to go find a ppg color code with the wife .

Ordered the fuel tank, panhard bar, adjustable rear links and headers and sidepipes.

I deleted the A&C insturments.

Now the wait 90+ days.

Ron
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