First Test Ride and new pictures

[Sam Bozzette]

Hey Guys,
The Beast came out of the shop under her own power yesterday and I went for a quick test ride. It was only about a mile or so, but it was great! Everything felt really good except for the brakes, they are like stepping on a rock. I used the 70s Vette 1" manual master cyl. It stops, but its like coaster brakes on a go-kart. IT WAS STILL GREAT!
I will be looking into my brake issue today, if anyone has any advise or if you know the correct pedal length x pivit point x push rod point ratio please send it along. Thanks for all the good info and support during my build, Sam

[RNT]

Nice work! That BB 466 looks right at home (the way it was meant to be).

[jerry w]

B-E-A-utiful! I remember the feeling when I drove mine out of the garage under it's own power for the first time. Enjoy. Hope the rest of your build goes smooth so you can enjoy some cruise time this summer.

Regards,

[Roscoe]

Good job Sam. Can't help on the single mc issue. I installed dual mc's with a floor mount pedal set. I'm sure someone can assist.

Can you give us some more detail on your brake setup? Did you bleed the mc? Completely bleed the brakes?

Roscoe

[Sam Bozzette]

Thanks, Jerry and Roscoe.
T think I may have found part of the issue, the Vette master cyl. is reverse in connection from most I have used. The reservoir closest to the firewall is for the rear brakes and the one furthest from the firewall is for the front. After much tinkering and searching for info, I pulled the mc and bench bled it, I noticed the what I thought was the rear brake section moving much more fluid, so I reinstalled it and switched the lines and it works much better. I am still going to make some adjustments in the pedal to pivot advantage, but at least I can stop now. Thanks Again, Sam

[Roscoe]

Sam,

You may eventually want to setup for pressure bleeding. It eliminates alot of the problems inherent in other forms of bleeding brakes/clutch.

Simply put, get a reservoir cover and install a schrader valve. Pump in 5-10 lbs of air (depending on the material of the reservoir) and open the bleeder.

Also, if you have two mc's (and I don't know if this applies to you) Tilton Racing recommends bleeding left and right, not back and front.

Roscoe

[Automan]

Way to go Sam!!! Your car looks great. Glad to hear you seemed to have solved your problem with the brakes. Im almost at the stage of adding fluids also to the brake and clutch systems. I used everything that AC adviced in the assembly manual. Never bleeded brakes before so this should be interesting.

Automan

[Sam Bozzette]

Automan,
You may already know all this and not that I am an expert in any way, but Roscoe's way is the best if you can do it. If not, here is the process, if you havent installed the master cyl. (MC) yet, you want to bench bleed it first. Simply stated in a vise or some other device to hold it solid, remove the cover and put temporary lines frim the outputs pointed into the reservoirs, (some new MCs come with tubing kits to do this) fill the MC making sure the lines are below the fluid level. Use a blunt push rod to pump the MC untill all the air bubbles are gone it takes a few pumps. If it is already installed you can do the same thing, its just a pain to do reaching through the side vent-hole. Also, and I found out the hard way, cover your header pipes with somthing that will absorb any spilt fluid. After you bleed the MC reconnect the lines to the car, start with the front or rear line furthest from the mc have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold steady pressure on it while you open the bleeder once the pedal in down, have them hold it down and close the bleeder repeat untill you stop getting air from the bleeder. Go to the other side and repeat the process. After each few bleeds check and refill the MC, if you run it out of fluid you have to start over. Then do the same at the other end of the car, the person pumping the pedal should feel the pedal get stiffer and higher. You can also do the process yourself by running a hose from the bleeder below the fluid level of a container partally filled with fluid and leave the bleeder open the air will push out and only fluid and be sucked back in. This is the same process for four wheel disc or disc and drum or power or manual brakes. Good luck, Sam

[Automan]

Thanks Sam. I didn't know so i will follow the steps. Question though. Can i not just start filling the master cylinder ands start pumpin away?

Automan

[Sam Bozzette]

I have done it that way myself and it always takes a lot longer to get the air to clear and a lot more fluid as you dont want to re-use any you have pumped through the lines. I believe the master cylinder has a lot of areas in the valving that can hold air. I have friends that are pro mechanics and they always bench bleed the master first. Sam

[Roscoe]

Automan,

It can be done that way but only pressure bleeding will do it.

Roscoe