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Ah ha........ Bolwell Mk7
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410s coupe. Crikey Dave, do you think I run a payroll company!
Bolwell Mk7. Yes, but as you got there by standing on Rob's shoulders, only half a cigar. http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...psmwbus9pi.jpg PLEASE POST ANY Bolwell COMMENTS here. Thank you. |
Yes thanks Rob for the prompt. I was looking for anything with an oval nose, you could make this out under the car cover.
The Mk8 Nagari doesn't have this, nor a Dino or even Miura. Now a Miura replica would look great in my driveway. The Mk7 has really nice lines. I was always keen on the Nagari but see the beauty in things once overlooked. |
whats the front end on it ?looks like hi ace or similar
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It has been a while since I posted but the GTO has been running perfectly. Just thought I'll add a comment on a modification because it has worked so well. May be of interest to Daytona owners.
I added a vent to the rear window purely because many of the GTOs fitted them. I have taken the car for a few runs since the vent was created and the lower cabin temperature in remarkable. You wouldn't think it could create such a drastic change - but it has. http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1sandob7.jpg http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...psry02emw7.jpg http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...psxvgox5cr.jpg |
Hi and yes I am interested for my Daytona and must say that it does look good on your GTO.
Can you tell me if you made or purchased the vent/outlet cover and if made, how you went about it and material Cheers |
See here
For a one-off you could just play around with a hotair gun on some 2mm Perspex. That's how I established the slightly different shape for the one on the rear. |
Pure genius!
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Nice work Peter, glad you're getting it out and enjoying it.
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that photo bucket thing is good... It keeps all your pics to yourself...
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Rob et al.
After Photobucket's initial stunt of restricting 3rd party posting Google Chrome hit back with an 'extension' to address it. It now appears as though Photobucket has tried again but there is, yet again, a response from Google Chrome. You just need to include new 'extensions. Click on the 3 vertical dots in the top right hand corner Click on 'Settings' Click on 'Advanced' Click on 'Accessibility' Type in "photobucket" to the search in the top left hand corner Click on 'Photobucket fixer' You should see 3 extensions appear - Select each of them. Restart Google and you should see images on all forums. I think Photobucket would stand a better chance taking on Kim Jong-un than Google! |
I am not a huge fan of the GTO but I understand why the originals sell for millions and there are some in Washington State that are owned by the Multi Billionaires that display their cars on occasion at Lemay's.
I am a fan of replica's because they allow some of us to enjoy those beautiful and historic cars of the past like the Cobras, GT 40s, 356s.....ect that we could never afford. Since I first saw one, I have though that the early 60s Ferrari SWB 250s were about as beautiful as any car I have ever seen and now Mirage in England is nearing production of a BMW based model and I am near the top of the pre ordering list. A bucket list car for me. I think the Cal Spyder is also a beautiful and affordable replica and it is made in the good old USA so you can go to Arizona and see one for real. The Cobra has a timeless beauty, but so do other cars... . |
I've been running the car for 12 mths, in something of an evaluation period, and have not encountered any major issues. We've just completed a 4,200 km trip around Tasmania and I didn't even have to lift the bonnet (hood). I think the time is safe to attend to a few minor body points and slap on the final coats of paint.
Unfortunately the ride height was far too low so I've had to raise it 40 mm at the front. That made the gap between the tyres and the guard (fender) look out of place. I've extended the bodywork down. I attached some Corflute inside the guard with 1/8" screws. I discovered in the process that fingers offer little resistance to 1/8' drill bits! https://s26.postimg.cc/enxvrfajd/105_1632_s.jpg I chamfered the existing edge back about 40 mm on both sides and first layered up the outside with fibreglass then, after removing the bloodstained Corflute I layered up from the inside. https://s26.postimg.cc/sudmmnt49/105_1637_s.jpg I attached the wheels to guide the marking out of the new edge. https://s26.postimg.cc/5g5naqiwp/105_1645_s.jpg I attached 12 mm fibreglass rope and sanded back https://s26.postimg.cc/53e94kg2h/105_1665_s.jpg The Pommie painter has arrived and sprayed some hi-fill and we hope to get it painted after Easter when he returns from the a visit to the Gold Coast. https://s26.postimg.cc/leed0vkuh/105_1666_s.jpg |
Hi Peter,
Looking good. Hope the finger is ok! Can you explain more about the fibreglass rope? Is that to give it a rolled edge for aesthetics or is to strengthen? I have been thinking in the past about how i can make the arches on mine look and feel more like folded metal. The rope sounds like it could be the answer. BTW it might be worth getting some sort of infrared light onto the guards to cure the fibreglass so it gets the movement out before painting. |
Thanks Liam - PM sent.
About the last remaining observable indicator of a 240Z was the acute angle of the upper rear corner of the side windows, so I took steps to give them the GTO rounded configuration. https://s26.postimg.cc/lvyhjbs2h/window_corner_d.jpg https://s26.postimg.cc/rvm8ne59l/105_1660.jpg https://s26.postimg.cc/rvm8ndpu1/105_1667.jpg https://s26.postimg.cc/cvetj9mop/105_1694_s.jpg |
Will you be modifying glass and door frame too?
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Quote:
The original configuration had the base of the frame attached to the top of the door. At anything over 100 the pressure difference created by the airflow over the window pulled the frame away from car body as the lightweight fibreglass flexed at the base mounting points. The aluminium door cards added a bit of structural integrity but unfortunately not enough. I now realise the secured legs of 'wind-up' window frames not only serve as guides for the glass when it is wound down, but also to counteract airflow forces over the glass when it is wound up. When I made the sliding windows I was unaware of that. Live and learn. Funny thing is I modelled the window design of those of early 850 Minis, now everyone tells me they were notorious for flexing and letting the rain in! I'm part way through making new frames with improved (?) base mounts. https://s26.postimg.cc/r49y4js9l/105_1698_s.jpg Yellow = original Blue = new https://s26.postimg.cc/5j4vh38fd/Window_frame_Ver2.jpg |
Those small details will make such a difference. Well worth the effort.
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To install the new window frames it was necessary to remove the door skin to gain usable access. Someone had advised me that VW now construct their doors with removable skin so that a whole door doesn't need to be replaced if a door is dented - saving in labour cost as well as parts.
That seemed like a great solution to both accessing the door's inner working and being able to align the edges with the sill (rocker), the front guard (fender) and rear quarter panel. https://s26.postimg.cc/z0hc0s715/105_1706.jpg I made some brackets to fibreglass to the skin. https://s26.postimg.cc/9hqljd2zd/105_1532.jpg I made some attachment plates - yet to be nickle plated. https://s26.postimg.cc/vgx06kc3t/105_1540.jpg The photos aren't much chop but I think you'll get the picture. A piece of weather stripping will be used to ensure a seal of the skin to the door frame. https://s26.postimg.cc/cbtqwtcvd/105_1541.jpg https://s26.postimg.cc/uemto1vvd/105_1543.jpg |
Is that glasses in bracket alloy? Will it stick?
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