That's it, I'm buggered... Off to bed for a week!

To Cool

Great pics. We'll done

That looks spectacular. You should be very proud. I see you have your priorities straight too. First thing to go on after paint is the badge on the front :)

Looking forward to seeing the rest come together.

Cheers

That really is looking the goods Peter, the lick of paint has made the world of difference since we saw it last weekend.

I'll have to bring Nemo round for another look once FOSC @ Wakey is out of the way and I get my starter woes sorted, my problem will be electrical it's not the battery.

Peter, it looks amazing. Great colour choice. I love the old Z cars (hence my username). I had a Z31.

Is yours the same as the Ferrari replica in Barry's photo or is that a different kit?

Dave i was going to ask if that was Nemo in the background above. Guess not, looks a different orange. Whats up with the electrics?

You're right it's a very different orange, that's Scott's Duratec powered Birkin

I should have complemented Baz before on his pics, they are great and how good does that orange Zed look ( better in the flesh )

Paint looks beautiful, Peter. Congrats!

The colour is Rosso Cina (Red China).

There seems to be plenty of cars painted a similar red these days but I wanted to be able to say it is painted the same colour as most GTOs left the factory.

I have researched this (on the web) until I could research no more. None of the following should be taken as absolute fact.

- In 1962 Ferraris were most likely painted with a product supplied by Italver, Duco (DuPont), Max Meyer or Salchi
- Cars bodied by Pininfarina used Italver or Max Meyer
- Cars bodies by Scaglietti (incl. 250 GTO) used Salchi
- Ferrari Rosso Cina code is 20.456 S - the S is for Salchi?
- PPG (Du Pont) bought Italver and Glidden bought Salchi
- Later PPG bought Glidden and Salchi
- FIAT/Lancia offered products in a colour titled Rosso Cina in the 1960s
- Alfa Romeo had a Rosso Cina (AF 521) in 1968-73

AF521 is the colour I have chosen for my car.


That is a similar Corsa kit to the red one I originally had. Although the Puckett kit I eventually fitted was a complete basket case it is much truer to the real GTOs.

The Puckett kit was so bad the Pommie painter spent a lot of time prepping it and I'm sad to say there was a lot of bog used, even worse, he ran out of time and the red is only a top coat to protect the unrubbed primer at this stage. I'm going to fit it all out (possibly even rego) and then decide what to do about the finish coats.

While the final coats aspect was somewhat disappointing I decided not to short change all the work that has gone on prior and I'm determined to have a top class paint job - I might even fly the painter back out. he was extremely honest and hard working and I was bitterly disappointed when the Stones concert was cancelled as I had a surprise ticket for him. It might seem like sending coals to Newcastle but he has never seen them live.

Overall I'm absolutely delighted and I see this as just a minor hiccup, it's just part and parcel of the kit car process.

Well, it has been a week (or more) are you driving it yet? :-)

ZZZzzzzzz... ZZZzzzzzz... ZZZzzzzzzz

"Wake up Jeff"...

I undertook some modifications to the front cross-member to help mitigate bumpsteer when the ride height is lowered.

Mounted the cross-member on the mill.
Drilled new holes for the control arm, 19mm higher and 6mm outwards.
Made and fitted new spreader plates - the old ones were mangled when chiscelled off.
Filled the old holes with weld.

I still need to dress it all and have it media blasted prior to painting.

Nice work Peter. Keep it up. Hoping to see your car in the flesh one day.

Cheers

Thanks Mike... me too.

Keeping the momentum going I've started mounting the sleeves for the front coilovers. I've left 35mm of the old strut tube and created provision for rosette welds to attach the sleeve.

I'll have to wait until the drivetrain is fitted before I can weld the rear as the sleeve sits further up the strut tube. Although the sleeve allows for plenty of height adjustment exactly where it is to be welded depends on a datum point set by the preferred ride height. Until I eye it with the wheels fitted and the car sitting on the ground I can't establish that datum point.

Nice alloy-bodied replica based on a 330GT for sale in New Zealand: Ferrari Other 330GT | eBay

I see that replica went for $220US+. It seems a strange choice to build a '64 body when a 62-63 could have been recreated for about the same money and 62-63 replicas were selling for $300US about 10 years ago.



A little more progress on the front suspension.

The front control arms couldn't rotate properly when I repositioned them so I had to do a bit of trimming.

I am finding so many components I made and fitted individually now have interference issue when assembled as a whole. I've had to completely rearrange the electrical board - above the passenger's feet - as it interfered with air vents and the 'Vintage Air' air con unit. "Bugger" yet again.

250 GTO for sale.

No, it isn't mine.

As most exchange hands through private sales with reported prices on $32m-$50m US, it will be very interesting to see what it actually reaches at public auction with no reserve.

Breaking News! Bonhams Offers Ferrari 250 GTO at Quail Lodge Auction Without Reserve

It's a pity I've promised my daughter I'll watch her play netball that weekend otherwise I would be over there with my cheque book.

Jeez......
If they'll take a cheque.......
I'm a definite starter!
:LOL::LOL:

I'm ready to mount the perspex headlight covers but it strikes me there could be a problem with condensation and thus transparency during rainy periods. The headlights (Moke) have a rubber seal which should prevent any moisture coming into the enclosed area from splash under the front guard but I wonder should I attempt to seal the perspex covers to the bodywork as well? If moisture does get in it will be a PITA to remove the covers and let it dry out.

I wondered if I should drill a drain hole through the fibreglass under the headlight rim and allow small gaps to remain where the perspex cover doesn't fit snugly to the bodywork, creating some kind of airflow/ventilation, or will that just encourage condensation under the covers?

Does anyone have experience with these types of covers or any comments? Thanks

http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2eb1ebfa.jpg

Peter
I'm sure some of the Daytona boys will be able to help with this one. It looks to be a similar setup

Doug