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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2002, 02:12 AM
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Default 347

is there anybody in sydney using webers on a 347?
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Old 06-30-2002, 04:17 AM
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two89w
Try this site, it is a weber look injection system. They are in Sydney.

http://www.dc-o.com.au/injection.htm

Well!!..nsw anyways
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Old 07-02-2002, 03:02 AM
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Default Webers

The Weber's lookalike system from Dc& O is around $7000 when I enquired some time ago...very expensive..

There is a company that sells the Manifold and 4 Weber system (real Webers) for just over $3,000. (check rear cover of Aust Classic Car April 2002).
Contact Hardiman Auto Supplies, Milperra NSW.. (02) 9771 5877
They were very helpful on the phone..

This is not an EFI system..actual Quad Webers...look great.
Not sure how well they perform or if they are easy to maintain or tune... Anybody know????
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Old 07-02-2002, 07:20 AM
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Thanks for info moondog, I too am in the thought process of induction systems. The rego engineer here is saying " It gotta be EFI or no approval". Thats why the dc&o consideration. I'm going 347ci and may use a single plane manifold with injector bosses and a quad throtle body..would love some thing a bit sexier but the minister for home affairs is threatening withdrawal (sic) of perks. Hard decision, hehe..but still may decide on sexy induction and take a risk on the home front )
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Old 07-11-2002, 05:57 AM
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Rebel1, which engineer in Brisbane are you using? How long have you had the RMC for? Any more specs on your motor? Are you in the Qld Cobra Club? So many questions!!!

Thanks!!!
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Old 07-12-2002, 04:26 AM
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Default

Gents'

You may want to consider Doug Pearce in Victoria. If any of you guys have seen pictures of Paul (OZCOBRA) induction set up,it is all HORN!.From what I believe there is a bloke nearby that casts this sort of stuff up,apparently does work for several Supercar teams, so he knows his gear.
My 2 bobs worth is that I think a 347 with this type of induction and a good set of heads is the best combo for a Cobra going round.

Cheers
Chris Lidgerwood
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Old 07-18-2002, 06:46 PM
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750HP.
I purchased the RMC about ..... hmm...sheez...10 years ago. I bought it just before I had an unfortunate head on with an out of control, plain wrapper police vehicle at Childers. ... put me out with a back injury for all this time. Surgical advances has fixed the back ...now i gotta finish the cobra.
I am about to join the Cobra club here
I live Northside, Brackenridge
Engine will be a 347, heads, after market injection etc, not wild, but healthy, looking at engine builders now.
Over the years have purchased heaps of stuff to keep the interest going. Tis very frustrating to have an itch and not be able to scratch it.
Essentially, I've got every item needed for the thing except the built engine. Am doing body work now ( RMC's need heaps), then will return to the chassis and redo a few things. The standards have lifted over time and it's my intention to meet these standards.
Who's your engineer? .. I'm not all that happy with mine.

Last edited by Rebel1; 07-18-2002 at 06:54 PM..
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Old 07-18-2002, 07:13 PM
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Chris, You're not gonna sucker me into THAT BB vs SB argument That subject is a constant giggle to me whenever I visit here.
Having said that, I want a well finished car that handles and stops well, and I'm willing to sacrifice some performance for that.
In some ways I still anguish about a 351 stroker but i've got a HD T5 and a heap of 302 engine stuff, including a fresh block, So common sense ( and an observant Minister for home affairs) keeps me on the 302 stroker path.
Maybe even a 331 cuz i'm a lil gun shy about the 347.
But I agree, the 347 should provide me all i want from a performance viewpoint
Pity I didnt contact you earlier because I'm writing this from a mates puter at coburg, could have visited if time allowed.
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Old 07-20-2002, 07:08 AM
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Better late than never - I've been away from the computer this week! A lot of the Gold Coast guys have used Ray Cross from somewhere around Tweed Heads. He seems reasonable by all reports. Closer to home is Eric Blythe in Moorooka. He's a car enthusiast (building a Lotus 7 replica with a Ferrari V8!!!) Who was your engineer, and what problems is he giving you? If you don't want to put it here, email me at cobraracer@yahoo.com

Have you heat cycled the body on your RMC? I have had two RMC bodies that looked perfect when painted, only to see them ripple along the guards after about 3 months of driving. Very disheartening I've been told the best way to stop the fiberglass from walking around like that is to post-cure the glass. Usually by heating the body in a paint booth, letting it fully cool, heating it again etc etc. A weekend of heating/cooling over and over is supposed to do wonders for the stability of the fiberglass.
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Old 07-20-2002, 08:10 PM
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Default Cooking Body

Hi Craig, I certainly understand what you are referring to about the body post cure.
The only advantage to having the body stored for a while is it gets a chance to cure and for trapped bubbles to erupt from under the gel coat. However, I certainly will have it baked a few times in a spray booth before the major refinish work commences.
The work I'm currently doing is basically getting doors/bonnet and boot lid fitted and gapped.
I'm also reshaping some areas, like removing the inside top of corners of the foot boxes just in case i do fit a 351. This part of the foot boxes is not needed and gives a lil more room to get at plugs etc with the taller 351 Windsor block.
Thanks for the advice
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Old 07-21-2002, 01:56 AM
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If you haven't bought any 5.0 specific parts yet, what's stopping you from putting a bigger motor in? Same money, more power and torque.......

I know what you man about the footboxes. I have an RMC body that we extended the driver's footbox by 8 inches. That makes exhaust clearance a little tighter than I'd prefer Scott from Venom Custom Fabrications here in Brisbane relieved the sides for a little more clearance. The Wilwood pedal box takes up a fair bit of room, so we couldn't remove as much as we would have liked.
So, who's this engineer that I should stay away from?
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Old 07-21-2002, 04:28 AM
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Default If you haven't bought any 5.0 specific parts yet

Craig, I got a heap of 302 specific parts including a fresh block, intake, SVO T5 ( If I went 351 i'd prefer a tremec ).
But amonst this lot have a pair of windsor snr iron heads ( would go well on a 351) so i'm still sorta toying 351. The Hyd roller cam i have is more suited to the 302 than a 351.
Anyways, i got enough grief without having you harp at me about a 351
Re the engineer, see private email
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Old 07-21-2002, 09:22 PM
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Default Fibreglass Curing

Hello Rebel..

If you are having problems with the fibreglass(curing) I would suspect that the fibreglass was not properly manufactured. There should be no air bubbles or pockets of unsoaked resin.

There is no reason to cure fibreglass if it has been correctly manufactured. I have seen many newly manufactured boats built and then immediately painted with a 2 pack poly without any problems.

If you feel you need to cure the body...put the body in the sun for a day..cool..and then repeat..

cheers..
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Old 07-21-2002, 10:22 PM
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Hi MoonDog
Totally agree, the body moulding to me was a concern when I first got the kit. In a past life I had worked in the marine field and was used to glass boat manufacturers who had fair mouldings, nice even gaps around hatches ( by "fair" I mean straight, smooth, no bumps and hollows) , and at the very least, had left the hull in the mould until they at least cured to be reasonably stable. Even years later these same hulls are still fair.
To me, it appeared that my body was pulled from the mould whilst it was still " green". Because of the uneven laminate, the areas of resin rich laminate, the body has distorted ( for want of a better description) and now has areas that require a large amount of filling to make fair again. ( like 1/4")
Now, I know polyester continues to cure and move, but i do expect a fair, properly cured body when I get it.
The areas that concern me more so and that to which 750 refers, are areas where the glass was not properly satuated and rolled into the resin. I have a large area on a rear guard where bubbles under the gelcoat have erupted and now need filling.
To some one with a painted car, thats hearbreaking.
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Old 07-21-2002, 10:47 PM
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MoonDog
That last post was a long one..so to finish..
I choose the RMC tho because to my eye, the shape was more authentic and because I liked the over engineered chassis with the Jag suspension.
I knew of the shortcomings and am not complaining.
I am however, in some ways, pleased that I had to store my body chassis kit in a nice hot shed.. This allowed it to cure whilst properly supported and also allowed the body time to cure to a shape which should ( when painted) maintain its fairness.
Unlike 750HP my body should should remain reasonably stable.
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Old 07-22-2002, 03:28 AM
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I've had a new front corner fitted to my RMC body. This has new glass alongside 10 year old glass. I'm guessing that this join line might also show up after it's repainted. The body has endured a summer of sunbaking, and I'm also going to bake it in an oven. Anything else I should do to it?
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Old 07-22-2002, 04:34 AM
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Default This has new glass alongside 10 year old glass.

750HP
If the front corner is already on .... no, nothing u can do. Fortunately, the front corner is so shaped that its inherent shape will remain, however, wheather the repair line appears thru your paint is a function of the workmanship of the repairer.
I know this sounds a little silly and I'll prolly be yelled down by a heap of " expert" fibreglass guys, but, the successfully hidden panel repairs I have been involved with have all used Epoxy as the repair resin and filler.
Polyester really doesnt like sticking to itself too well, even after aggressive scoring/sanding/grinding and has a poor secondary bond.
Epoxy, has different flex properties is more flexible than polyester ( ie. will flex as much as the polyester panel..and them some). It also has a much higher secondary bond.
If i were to replace a front quarter, especially on an older moulding, then all glass work would be with epoxy resin ( The replacement panel would of course be polyester )and any exterior filler would be Epoxy because of its lower shrinkage ( 1 to 2%) lastly, epoxy fillers will generally feather finer.

Last edited by Rebel1; 07-22-2002 at 04:37 AM..
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Old 07-22-2002, 05:15 AM
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Thanks for that! I really wasn't taking much notice when the paint guy was talking about it, but I remember he insisted that he wanted to rub something back and put epoxy over it.... So that sounds like you and he agree on this!!! Lucky I was concentrating when I was working out the engine specs

I didn't get your email....
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Old 07-22-2002, 07:10 AM
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750HP..
See wot happens to you 351 guys..gets worse as the cubes go up only kiddin!!!

The email went to cobraracer@yahoo.com, didnt bounce so should be there..i'll send again...

Good that ya paint fella said Epoxy, first coat of primer sander should be epoxy too, tell him to pile it on...ya car might get heavy enuff for me to beat it, damn..i wish!
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Old 07-24-2002, 03:00 AM
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Rebel, you'd best be making some enquiries as to 750's paint fella ,"are there any lead based epoxys?",sorry Craig did i miss something why the replacement guard ?

regards Paul
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