LS motors clearance issues...

[schipps]

For those discerning folk out there who have chosen to go with a Chevrolet engine in their replica, particularly a Harrison, I have a question...

For you Ford guys, NO there is Nothing wrong with the motor, I am writing to ask if anyone had hassles with the engine being too low, more particularly the sump? I have the sump at about 90mm or less (after a lot of winding up the coils) and wondered if anyone else had the same problem?
Am I just going to keep winding up the coil springs? There is already quite a gap from the top of the tyre to the guard.
Are there any dry sump systems for the L76???


regards

Mick

[ptrefry]

Try putting a 20mm spacer between the rubber engine mount and bracket.

[sambo]

Mick, personally I wouldn't want to rely on the springs for clearance as sooner or later you're bound to go over a speed hump a little fast and there goes your sump.

The lower part of the engine mount on a Harrison, the fabricated section that wraps over the chassis rail, have you considered making that piece "taller"? It's an upside down U where the bolt goes through into the chassis rail... if that was 20 or 30mm higher it would raise the engine. How much clearance is there between the engine/trans and the firewall/tunnel currently?

Have you spoken to Warwick about this?

[boxhead]

With the Classic Revivals you need to fit a spacer to gain clearance between the rack and the harmonic balancer, Could this help you?

Also depending on location of your crossmembers (or if you can move them) I think the corvette sump is a fair amount shallower.

[stiffy]

Shipps,


I have the same problem with the Coupe....

I found a way to fix it......... LS7 dry sump Bolts straight in .......

Too bad the dollar has gone south.........

I thought about the LS7 until I drove the 6 liter the other week...No Tune, standard heads & cam and asthmatic exhaust... I dont need one

Doug Pearce was thinking about a plate from the front cross member to protect the sump and filter!!!! Speaking of filters they are so small....


STIFFY

[Rebel1]

Mick, this is a difficult question to answer as it is an exercise in compromises.

The placement of the engine should be defined by it's relationship to the diff pinion and this is compounded by the very short wheelbase of the cobra.

It is recommended there be at least 1° and a maximum of 3° angle on a universal in both planes and no more than 1° difference between both uni's. These limits guarantee a vibration free install.

Here are two sites illustrating the concept:

http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon...nephasing.html

and ...

http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html

The compromise comes about because our tail/drive shafts are roughly 300mm long between the trunnions of the universals so doesn't give us a lot of freedom with regards to engine placement. It is also compounded by the offset of the pinion to (usually) the right hand side of the car by some 30 - 40mm.

This whole exercise is worth doing to see what limits you have and what extent of shims can be used as mentioned by others to provide the clearance.

Once you identify the theoretical placement of the engine then you can make a decision about the sump. Maybe cutting and welding the sump to improve clearance and capacity is a better option.

see here for an example of an LS1 sump being modified.: http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthre...t=cutting+sump

cheers

[Aussie Mike]

The LS2 Corvette wet sump is the best clearance you are going to get without going for the dry sump.

I picked one up a while aback and the bottom of the sump is flush with the bottom of the bellhousing. The Camaro/Firebird sump is close but it slopes down towards the front of the reservoir because the motor sits up on a bit of an angle. The Vette sump is flat because the engine sits level.

The Corvette sump also has some really good baffles and a full length windage tray/crank scraper.

I'll see if I can find a pic.

Cheers

[sambo]

Also if you have a link and/or part number Mike I'd be really grateful, thanks.

Paul

[Aussie Mike]

OK, Here's some useful data.

This is the Commodore sump with it's reservoir at the front. You can see it hangs down nearly an inch below the bellhousing flange.



This is the Camaro/Firebird sump. It has a rear reservoir but it also hangs nearly an inch below the bellhousing flange.



You can se it here with my box bolted to the motor.




This is the LS2 Corvette sump. The LS1 Corvette sump has wings on the side and presents it's own clearance problems in some cars. As you can see the bottom is flat and flush with the bellhousing flange. This sump should gain you nearly an inch of clearance over the others.

[sambo]

Terrific info Mike, thanks. Now, is this the C6 Corvette LS2 oil pan, part no. 12581810?

See this thread: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/archiv.../t-233963.html

Part no. has been update to 12598186. $247 USD at gmpartsdirect.com but they don't ship outside the states. Have emailed a few other sites for shipping costs.

[Aussie Mike]

I believe so. The pics they have in that thread are the same as my sump.

Just on the subject of the LS7 dry sump. I don't think you would gain any extra clearance from it. The lowest point is still the bottom of the bellhousing.



Cheers

[schipps]

You guys are terrific! Thanks for the info all.
It looks like an LS2 sump is the way to go.

Thanks again guys. Just printing out the info from your links Les.

Mike, thanks for the pics. Very helpful.
Have a great day

Regards

Mick

[sambo]

Mike do you think the Commodore oil pickup would need to be changed for the LS2 Corvette sump? Seems likely to me.

[Aussie Mike]

The setup I got includes the sump, the pickup and the windage tray.

You might also want to check the position of any cross members on your chassis.

Cheers

[boxhead]

You definatly need to change the pickup, as the Commodore sump has the reservoir at the front and the covette has it at the rear, if there is a cross member under your sump then this may need to be modified.

Looks like Mike beat me too it.

[Aussie Mike]

Another thing I like about the LS2 Corvette sump is the baffles. The pickup is almost in the middle of the sump all the baffles and galleries are designed to keep as much oil as possible around the pickup.

With Camaro sump I liked it because the reservoir is at the rear. Under hard acceleration all the oil moves to the back of the sump where the pickup is. The Corvette can pull better than 1G in the turns so it needed better oil control in the corners. The baffles all around the central pickup keep the oil for sloshing up the sides of the sump and down near the pickup where it's needed.

You can see the pocket in the center where the pickup sits



Cheers

[sambo]

Originally Posted by Aussie Mike

Mike is that an oil catch can return line feeding back into the block near the oil filter?

I spoke to Eagle Auto Spares and they're selling the Firebird/Camaro sump kit complete with pickup, screen, deflector, dipstick and tube for $686.20. These are new items.

[Aussie Mike]

That line is for my mechanical oil pressure guage. I went with all mechanical guages in my car. I like the full 270 degree sweep they have on their dials and I feel they are more accurate than most electrical guages.

You see LS1 sumps come up on Ebay from time to time. You may also try sourcing the sump from a suplier out of the US.

Cheers

[sambo]

Thanks Mike. I'm just finalising a price for the LS2 sump with SpeedInc (USA), a sponsor on ls1.com.au, incidentally. It's looking ballpark with the Firebird/Camaro/F-body kit from Eagle, with the bonus of an extra inch clearance.

Group buy, anyone?

[LT65]

Schipps,
I had a look at a finished car at Warricks' and he puts a spacer between the bracket and rubber mount. I made a longer saddle and placed a spacer between the saddle and the mount on the chassis this spacer also doubles as the nut for the rubber mount. Then I had an issue of the rear of the engine namely the vacuum fitting out of the manifold touching the firewall, I don't think the engine mounts are put exactly in the same spot on each car. Had th eccentricly drill the spacer/nut to move the engine forward a tad.
This was by far more cost effectivve than another sump.

Good luck with your dilema.